Change of oil
Note: If the vehicle is used in severe conditions, the intervals between the next replacement of impellent oil / oil filter should be shortened (see section 1).
1. Regular and fairly frequent replacement of engine oil is one of the main preventive maintenance procedures for a car that lies within the skill of an average amateur mechanic. Over time, motor oil is subject to aging, which is manifested in its gradual dilution and contamination, leading to premature wear of internal engine components. In addition, a certain amount of oil burns in the engine cylinders, and also evaporates from the crankcase under the influence of high temperature and pressure. The oil filter must be changed every time the engine oil is changed.
2. Make sure you have all the materials and tools needed to perform an oil and oil filter change on hand (see resist. illustration). Also, have enough rags and old newspapers ready to catch any spilled oil. Before changing the oil, the engine must be warmed up to operating temperature - hot oil is more fluid and better flushes out sludge and sediment.
6.2. Basic tools needed to change the engine oil and oil filter:
1. Drain container - should be shallow and wide enough to minimize the chance of oil spilling onto the ground
2. Rubber gloves - will help protect your hands from burns if oil inevitably gets on them while turning out the drain plug of the oil pan
3. Gate - sometimes the drain plug is tightened quite tightly, which requires considerable effort when turning it out
4. Replaceable end head - used in tandem with a gate or a drive equipped with a ratchet when turning out the drain plug, must correspond to the latter in size
5. Tape wrench - allows you to unscrew the full-flow oil filter in conditions of limited access to it
6. Special ring wrench - is put on the end of the filter and can then be rotated using a winch or ratchet drive, must match the filter housing in size
3. Oil from the engine can be removed in two ways: pumped out using a special probe (hose with pumping device) through the dipstick tube for measuring the level of impellent oil (hose diameter should be no more than 7 mm), or drained through the drain hole in the engine sump. Depending on the availability of appropriate equipment, you can choose any of them - the first is more preferable for a private garage, because. does not require special lifting equipment or a viewing hole. Park the vehicle on a level surface, apply the parking brake lever and stop the engine.
4. Remove the oil filler cap (see Section 4).
5. On the Z13DT engine, you must first unscrew the 2 mounting bolts and the hex nut and remove the oil filter protective cap. Releasing the bolts may require considerable force - if necessary, use a special tool for unscrewing the bolts Togh with an extension and a ratchet mechanism.
6. On gasoline engines with a displacement of 1.2 liters and on diesel engines using a head (27 mm) or special key Hazet-2169-27 remove the oil filter cover (see resist. illustration). When the filter cap is unscrewed, oil starts to drain into the engine oil pan, wait until all the oil has drained from the filter, and then remove the filter element.
6.6. Lid (1) oil filter
7. Remove the dipstick from the tube (see Section 4) and pump out the oil using a special tool.
8. If there is no special probe / device, the engine oil can be drained from the crankcase, for which lift the car using a lift, drive it onto a flyover, or jack it up and place it on props. Make sure that the car is securely fixed in the raised position.
Attention: Never carry out any work under the car, supported only by the bumper or held in a raised position only by a jack!
9. Get under the car and familiarize yourself with the location of the oil pan drain plug (see resist. illustration). Remember that the power unit and components of the exhaust system will remain hot enough during the entire procedure - consider a safe hand manipulation scheme to avoid accidental contact with heated surfaces.
6.9. drain plug (arrow) sump (1) engine
10. On Corsa Eco models, you must first unscrew the 4 fixing bolts and remove the service cover on the engine crankcase protection (see chapter 2).
11. Install a drain container capable of holding up to 5 liters of oil under the oil pan, in such a way that at the first moment the jet will flow through the hole with a decent pressure. Taking care not to touch the hot surfaces of the power unit and exhaust system components, remove the drain plug from the bottom of the oil pan. It is recommended to wear protective rubber gloves during this operation. Allow the oil to flow freely into the container, adjusting the position of the latter accordingly as the pressure of the jet weakens.
12. After the oil stops flowing from the engine crankcase, carefully wipe the drain plug with a clean rag - small metal filings can stick to it, which will immediately lead to contamination of fresh oil. Check the drained oil for the presence of metal filings. If there is a large amount of metal chips or wear products in the engine oil, this creates a risk of clogging of the oil channels and damage to the parts of the crank mechanism, such as main or connecting rod bearings of the crankshaft. To eliminate possible consequences, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the oil channels and hoses, if necessary, replace the oil cooler.
13. Wipe the surface of the pan around the drain hole, screw the plug into place and tighten with the required force (see specs). Remember to replace the copper/aluminum seal on the drain plug threaded connection.
Note: A gasket is sometimes included with a new oil filter change.
14. If equipped, replace the crankcase service cover. Collect traces of spilled oil, remove drain pan and tools from under the car. Lower the car to the ground. The oil filter cover is installed in place and tightened with the appropriate torque (see below), on the Z13DT engine, reinstall the oil filter cap.
Filter replacement
15. Most of the models discussed in this manual use oil filters with replaceable paper filter elements. Depending on the brand of the engine, these filters can be of one of two versions (see resist. illustrations).
6.15a. Oil filter with replaceable paper element (3) - option A: 1. Oil filter cover 2. Sealing gasket | 6.15b. Oil filter with replaceable paper element (3) - option B: 2. Gaskets |
16. To unscrew the filter cover with a replaceable paper element, it is necessary to use a socket (27 mm) or special tool Hazet-2169-27. After removing the cover, replace the replacement element and seals (see illustrations 6.15). Install the cover in place, tightening to the required torque (see specs).
17. Z14XE/Z16SE/Z16XE engines are equipped with a non-separable, fully replaceable filter. Their dismantling at the service station is carried out using a special tool Hazet-2172 (see resist. illustration). In a garage, you can simply pierce the side of the filter housing with a sharp screwdriver and use the screwdriver as a lever when unscrewing the filter. After unscrewing the filter, in order not to spill the oil, let it drain into a container prepared in advance for this.
6.17. Removing the replacement oil filter (1) using a special device (on the example of the Z16XE engine)
18. Instead of a one-piece replaceable oil filter, you can use a special collapsible cartridge (see resist. illustration), that allows you to replace only the filter element.
Note: Regardless of the filter version, replaceable paper elements of the same standard size are interchangeable.
6.18. Collapsible cartridge with replaceable filter element: 1. Filter housing; 2. Filter cover; 3. Replaceable filter element; 4. Drain hole
19. Before installing the one-piece filter / cartridge, wipe the place of its landing on the engine block with a clean rag, if necessary, remove the remnants of the old sealing gasket, lubricate the sealing gasket of the new filter with clean engine oil. Screw in the new oil filter by hand until there is slight resistance (the gasket pressed against the motor flange), then tighten the filter an additional half turn (tightening force - 15 Nm).
Note: The filter housing may contain additional information on its installation.
20. The oil filter / element is changed, as a rule, when changing the oil. If necessary, it can be replaced separately, without changing the engine oil.
Note: When replacing the filter element/filter, the gaskets must be replaced without fail. As a rule, they are included in the replacement element / filter kit - check their availability when buying. If they are not included in the package, do not forget to purchase them additionally.
Filling with fresh engine oil
Note: The oil filling capacity indicated in the Specifications or the vehicle passport is approximate. Every time after changing the oil, it is imperative to check its level with a dipstick - if necessary, make an appropriate adjustment.
21. Pour fresh oil into the engine intake - use a funnel to minimize losses. Fill with oil about a quarter less than the volume specified in the Specifications. Wait a few minutes, allowing the oil to drain into the sump, then check its level on the dipstick (see Section 4). If the level is above the low mark, start the engine with fresh oil circulating (the oil pressure indicator lamp at the first start may go out with a certain delay associated with the need to fill the volume of the filter element).
Note: To raise the oil level from the bottom (MIN) up to the top (MAX) dipstick marks require approximately 1 liter of oil.
22. After letting the engine run for about one minute, turn it off again, and immediately look under the car - check for leaks through the drain plug and oil filter seals. Tighten leaky components slightly if necessary (respecting tightening forces).
23. During the circulation of oil through the engine (within 1 minute), the new oil filter is being filled. Now it is necessary to check the oil level again and, if necessary, add some more of it, slightly not bringing the level to the upper mark on the dipstick blade (check after about 5 minutes after turning off the engine - the oil should have time to completely drain into the oil pan). If the oil level is too high, then it must be pumped out. After a test drive, recheck the oil drain plug and oil filter seals for leaks.
24. During the first few trips after changing the engine oil, check the oil level as often as possible.
25. Waste oil drained from the engine cannot be reused and must be handed over to a special collection point. In no case do not drain the waste to the ground or into the sewer - pour it into a hermetically sealed container and hand it over as soon as possible.
Engine oil temperature measurement
26. When carrying out various adjustment work, it may be necessary to accurately know the temperature of the impellent oil.
27. The oil temperature must be measured in the crankcase at a level of approximately 1 cm from the bottom of the crankcase. The measurement is made with a special device (see resist. illustration), for which it is necessary to insert the measuring probe of the device into the guide tube of the dipstick for measuring the level of impellent oil and push it until it touches the bottom of the crankcase, and then pull it out by about 1 cm.
6.27. Engine oil temperature gauge
28. To prevent air from being sucked through the guide tube, the hole must be closed with a rubber stopper.
29. Oil temperature depends on engine load. The value of 80°C corresponds to the normal operating temperature of the engine. Under extreme load, the oil temperature can reach 150°C.
Engine oil pressure measurement
30. To diagnose the condition of the oil pump and the degree of wear of the crankshaft bearings, the exact value of the oil pressure in the engine lubrication system can be measured. The procedure is described in Chapter 2.
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