Note: When replacing or resurfacing brake discs, new brake pads must be installed on them at the same time.
Removal
2. Raise the vehicle and remove the appropriate wheels.
3. Remove the brake shoe guides (see Sections 7 and 8).
Note: It is not necessary to disconnect the brake hose.
4. Position the brake shoe guide so that the brake hose is not twisted or stretched, or tie it to the stand with wire.
5. To prevent the brake piston from slipping out, clamp it with a wooden block, placing the latter between the piston and the caliper.
6. Loosen the mounting screw and remove the brake disc from the wheel hub (see accompanying illustration).
9.6. Loosening the screw (1) securing the brake disc
Note: Instead of the Allen screw shown in the illustration, a Torx type bolt can be installed.
7. If, as a result of long-term use, any of the discs has become stuck to the wheel hub, use a plastic hammer and knock the disc off with light blows.
Attention: When removing the disc, strong impacts are not allowed!
Try using a rust dissolving agent as well. If these attempts are unsuccessful, remove the disk using a puller or knock the disk off with a heavy hammer. When removing with a puller, the disk must be replaced with a new one. If a heavy hammer was used, the wheel bearings must be replaced along with the disk.
Installation
8. Check the condition of the brake disc (see below). Measurements when checking the disc must be accurate, so the authors of this Guide recommend contacting a service station or a specialist who has the appropriate measuring tool and the necessary experience in performing these works.
9. Installation is performed in the reverse order of component dismantling. Before installation, make sure that the mating surfaces of the disc and hub are absolutely clean and dry. Lightly lubricate the threaded part of the disc mounting screw with a fixing compound. If the disc is being replaced, remove the protective varnish from the new brake disc with a thinner.
10. Before operating the vehicle, check the proper functioning of the brake system.
Checking the status
11. It is best to carry out the check in a stationary workshop, where all the conditions and necessary tools are available. However, in some cases it is possible to check the disks without removing them from the car - this reduces the labor intensity of the work somewhat, but it is more difficult to achieve the required accuracy of measurements. All the dimensions to be checked are given in Specifications for Chapter 1.
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12. Perform a visual inspection of the condition of the working surface of the disc. Minor defects can be eliminated using fine-grained sandpaper. To remove deep grooves, the disc should be subjected to turning. If there are cracks or grooves deeper than 0.4 mm, (see accompanying illustration), replace the brake disc. Remember that the disc should be inspected from both sides. Rusty brake discs create increased noise when braking; if the noise does not disappear after a sufficiently long period of operation, replace the discs.
9.12. If the brake pads are excessively worn, the friction lining fasteners make deep grooves on the surface of the brake disc - a disc damaged in this way must be replaced without fail
13. If pulsations of the foot brake pedal are noticed during braking, not related to the operation of ABS, the lateral runout of the brake disc should be assessed. The lateral runout is checked using a plunger-type dial gauge. The measurement result should not exceed 0.03 mm, otherwise the disc should be resurfaced.
Note: The authors of this Manual recommend turning the disks regardless of their condition in order to remove any defects from the working surfaces. In extreme cases, you can limit yourself to processing the disk with fine-grained sandpaper.
14. When turning a disk, special attention should be paid to compliance with the requirements Specifications to its minimum permissible thickness. The thickness of the disk is measured using a micrometer and some other devices.

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