Note: If possible, work on a special rotating stand that provides access to the engine from all sides, since it is very difficult to fix the engine from moving when unscrewing fastening parts tightened with a high torque.
1. Remove the power unit from the vehicle (see Removal and installation of the power unit).
2. Remove the starter (see Removal and installation the starter).
3. Remove the generator (see Removal and installation the generator).
4. Disconnect the gearbox from the engine by unscrewing the bolts that secure it to the engine (see Removal and installation the gearbox).
5. Remove the clutch from the flywheel (see Removal and installation the clutch).
6. Remove the flywheel (see Removal, defect detection and installation of the flywheel).
7. Remove the cylinder head (see Replacing the cylinder head gasket).
8. Remove the water pump (see Replacing the water pump).
9. Remove the oil filter (see Changing engine oil and oil filter).

10. Remove the oil pan (see Replacing the oil pan seal).

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11. Remove the oil pump…

12. …and a sealing gasket installed under the flange of the oil pump housing (see Removal and installation the oil pump).
Note: When disassembling the crank mechanism and piston group, mark the pistons, connecting rods, and main and connecting rod bearing shells so that they can be installed in their original places during assembly if they are in good working order.

13. Remove the two bolts securing the crankshaft rear main bearing cover…

14. …slide the cover up…

15. …remove the rear crankshaft oil seal from the cylinder block socket…

16. …and remove the crankshaft rear main bearing cover
Note: Replace the rear oil seal with a new one each time it is removed.

The photo shows the oil seal removed from the engine A and a new seal B. Diameter of the working surface of the seal A enlarged, so when reinstalled the seal will not provide a seal to the rear flange of the crankshaft.

17. Unscrew the two bolts securing the connecting rod cover of the 1st cylinder, move the cover from its seat with light hammer blows through a wooden spacer..

18. …and remove the cover with the insert.
Attention! The connecting rod and cover are not marked with cylinder numbers. Be sure to mark them in any way possible (for example, by kerning), so that during assembly they can be installed in their original places, since the connecting rod caps are not interchangeable (the connecting rod is machined together with the cover).

19. Press with a wooden block (with a hammer handle) on the connecting rod...

20. ...and remove the piston with the connecting rod from the cylinder towards the upper surface of the cylinder block.
21. Similarly, remove the pistons and connecting rods of the remaining cylinders, turning the crankshaft to access the connecting rod cap bolts.
Note: Turn the crankshaft with a wrench on the flat on the front end.
22. Remove the two bolts securing any main bearing cap. Separate the cap from its seat with light hammer blows through a wooden spacer…

23. …and remove the cover with the lower insert.
Caution! Main bearing caps are designed for one specific cylinder block only (the covers are processed together with the block). The covers are not interchangeable with each other.

The covers are numbered according to the order in which they are installed (counting from the front of the engine).

24. Unscrew the bolts, remove the remaining main bearing caps and remove the crankshaft.

25. Remove the bearing shells from all connecting rods...

26. …and from their lids…

27. …from the main bearing caps…

28. …and from all the beds in the cylinder block.

Note. The third main bearing cap liner is thicker, and its side ends are provided with flanges that act as thrust half rings limiting the axial movement of the crankshaft. Similar flanges are also provided on the upper liner of the third main bearing.

29. Release the upper compression ring…

30. …and take it off.

31. Remove the second (lower) compression ring in the same way.
32. Unclamp and remove the upper ring, expander and lower ring of the composite oil scraper ring

33. Using a screw or hydraulic press, press the piston pin out of the upper connecting rod head.
34. Remove the pin from the piston and remove the piston from the connecting rod.
Note: Mark the parts. If they are not damaged and show little wear, they can be used in their original locations.

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