1. Insert the connecting rod into the piston, lubricate the piston pin with engine oil and press it into the connecting rod with the same tool on which the pin was pressed out, or with a hammer and a suitable mandrel inserted into the inner hole of the pin. The piston should be pressed with the boss against the upper head of the connecting rod in the direction of pressing the pin, which will allow it to take the correct position.
Note. The pin is inserted into the upper head of the connecting rod with an interference fit, therefore, to facilitate assembly and maintain its fit, it is recommended to heat the connecting rods by placing them with their upper heads for 15 minutes in an electric furnace heated to 240°C. The heating temperature of the connecting rod can be controlled using a thermochromic pencil. To properly connect the pin to the connecting rod, press in the pin as soon as possible, since after it cools down, the position of the pin cannot be changed.
2. Install piston rings. It is recommended to do this with a special puller. If it is not there, install the rings on the piston, carefully spreading the locks of the rings.
3. The order of installation of the rings: the oil scraper ring is installed first IN (the ring lock must be on the opposite side of the expansion spring lock), then the lower compression ring B, last - top compression ring A (chrome-plated on the edge).
Attention! To avoid deforming or breaking the rings during installation, do not expand them more than necessary.
Note. Marking «TOP» on the compression rings must point upwards.
4. Orient the rings as shown in fig. 1. Install rings on remaining pistons.
Pic. 1. The location of the locks of the piston rings before installing the piston in the cylinder: 1 - oil scraper ring expander and upper compression ring; 2 - the upper ring of the composite oil scraper ring; 3 - lower compression ring; 4 - the lower ring of the composite oil scraper ring
Note. The locks of the upper and lower rings of the composite oil scraper ring should be located at a distance of 25–50 mm, respectively, to the left and right of the expander lock.
5. Lay in bed of the block of cylinders the top loose leaves of radical bearings.
Notes:
- In the bed of the third main bearing, lay the bushing of increased thickness with support collars.
- Install the inserts so that the insertion tab of the insert is aligned with the notch on the bed.
6. Lubricate the liners with engine oil.
7. Install the crankshaft in the cylinder block.
8. Place the lower shells in the main bearing caps, aligning the tabs of the shells with the notches on the caps.
Note. The upper and lower main bearing shells may differ in the location of the oil supply hole. Install the liners so that these holes coincide with the holes of the channels for supplying oil in the beds of the main bearing supports. After inserting the shells into the sockets, their ends protrude slightly, therefore, for the correct orientation of the shells, when the bearing cap bolts are finally tightened, make sure that the protrusion of both ends is the same.
9. Lubricate the crankshaft journals with engine oil.
10. Grease loose leaves in covers of radical bearings of a cranked shaft with engine oil.
11. Establish covers of radical bearings according to serial numbers.
Attention! Use a soft-faced hammer made of brass, lead, or polyurethane to install the crankshaft bearing caps. It is forbidden to install the covers by tightening the fasteners, since in this case the seating surfaces of the covers and the cylinder block will be damaged.
12. Install the cover bolts, tighten them to 50 Nm and tighten the bolts sequentially, first by 30°and then by 15°.
Attention! Bolts of fastening of covers of radical bearings surely replace new.
13. Check up correctness of assembly, having turned a cranked shaft a hand on some turns. The shaft must rotate freely and smoothly.
14. Check the axial clearance of the crankshaft, it should be 0.100–0.202 mm. Increased clearance indicates wear on the crankshaft support flanges or the end surfaces of the middle main bearing shells. In this case, replace the liners with new ones of nominal width or increased to one of the repair sizes (tab. 1).
Tab. 1. The width of the liners of the middle support of the crankshaft of the A16 XER engine
Size | Width, mm |
Nominal | 26,000–26,052 |
1st repair | 26,200–26,252 |
2nd repair | 26,400–26,452 |
15. Install the bushings into the connecting rods, aligning the insertion tab with the notch on the connecting rod.
16. Lubricate the cylinder mirrors, pistons, piston rings and connecting rod bearings with engine oil.
17. Install a ring compression tool on the piston and tighten the screw to compress the rings.
18. Turn the crankshaft so that its connecting rod journal, on which the connecting rod and piston group is mounted, is at TDC. Install the piston in the cylinder according to the marking of the cylinder number on the connecting rod..
19.... click (e.g. hammer handle) on the piston and slide it from the mandrel into the cylinder. Install the pistons in the rest of the cylinders in the same way.
Note. When installing pistons in cylinders, the mark (arrow) on the piston and the lettering on the connecting rod must face the front of the engine.
Attention! Install the piston into the cylinder carefully so that the bottom end of the connecting rod does not damage the crankshaft crankpin.
20. Install the connecting rod bearings into the connecting rod caps by aligning the insert tab with the notch in the cap.
21. Lubricate the connecting rod bearings in the connecting rod caps and the connecting rod journals of the crankshaft with engine oil.
22. Install the connecting rod cover by connecting the connecting rod to the crankshaft journal and aligning the marks (if they were made) on the crank and cover.
23. Screw rod bolts without tightening them completely.
24. Tighten the connecting rod cap bolts to 25 Nm and tighten the bolts sequentially, first by 30°and then by 15°.
25. Check up ease of movement of a rod along a rod neck. If seizing, turn out the connecting rod bolts and re-tighten them to the specified torque.
26. Check the side clearance of the connecting rod, it should be 0.070–0.242 mm. Increased clearance indicates excessive wear on the crankshaft crank webs. In this case, replace the crankshaft.
27. Similarly fix covers of other rods.
28. Install the crankshaft rear oil seal (see Replacing the crankshaft seals).
29. Install the oil pump (see Removal and installation of the oil pump).
30. Install the oil sump (see Replacing the oil sump seal).
31. Install the flywheel (see Removal, troubleshooting and installation of the flywheel).
32. Next, assemble the engine in the reverse order of disassembly. Installation of a head of the block of cylinders is described in subsection Replacing the cylinder head gasket, water pump - in the subsection Water pump replacement, timing belt - in subsection Replacing the timing belt.
Note. After assembling the engine, it is recommended to run it on the stand. Since it is impossible to do this outside of special repair organizations, after installing the engine on the car, run it in a simplified cycle in the following order.
1. Fill in oil and coolant, check the tightness of all connections.
2. Start the engine and let it run without load for the next cycle.
Frequency of rotation of a cranked shaft, min-1 | Operating time, min |
820-900 | 2 |
1000 | 3 |
1500 | 4 |
2000 | 5 |
Do not bring the engine to maximum conditions.
3. During operation, check the tightness of the engine and its systems, oil pressure, pay attention to the presence of extraneous noise.
4. If extraneous noises or other malfunctions are found, stop the engine and eliminate their cause.
5. After starting the operation of the car, observe the modes provided for the break-in period of a new car.
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