- elevated (compared to the usual) noise when engaging clutch;
- jerks when operating the clutch;
- incomplete clutch engagement (clutch "slips");
- incomplete disengagement of the clutch (the clutch "leads").
Note: If the clutch fails, we recommend replacing all of its components at the same time (driven and pressure plates, clutch release bearing): the work of replacing the clutch is labor-intensive, and the service life of undamaged clutch elements has already been reduced, and if they are reinstalled, then the clutch may need to be replaced again after a relatively short mileage.
You will need: key "11" (a socket head is more convenient), mounting blade…
…mandrel for centering the driven disk (can be made from the primary shaft of the gearbox by removing the gears).
You can use a commercially available mandrel for front-wheel drive VAZ vehicles.
1. Remove the gearbox (see Removal and installation the gearbox).
2. If you are going to install the old pressure plate, mark it in any way (for example, with paint) the relative position of the disc casing and the flywheel to set the pressure plate to its previous position (to maintain balance).
Note: For clarity, the work is shown on a removed engine.
3. Hold the flywheel with a mounting blade (or a large screwdriver) from turning, unscrew the six bolts securing the clutch pressure plate housing to the flywheel. Loosen the bolts evenly: each bolt two turns of the wrench, moving from bolt to bolt by diameter.
Note: This is how the bolts that secure the clutch housing to the engine flywheel are located.
4. Remove the pressure and driven clutch discs from the flywheel, holding the driven disc.
5. Inspect the driven clutch disc. Cracks on the driven disc parts are not allowed.
6. Check the degree of wear of the friction linings. If the rivet heads are recessed less than 0.3 mm, the surface of the friction linings is oily or the rivet joints are loose, the driven disk must be replaced.
Note: If the driven disk linings are oily, check the condition of the gearbox input shaft seal. It may need to be replaced.
7. Check the reliability of the damper springs in the sockets of the driven disk hub by trying to move them in the sockets of the hub by hand. If the springs move easily in the sockets or are broken, replace the disk.
8. Check the runout of the driven disk if its warping is detected during visual inspection. If the runout is more than 0.5 mm, replace the disk.
9. Inspect the flywheel friction working surfaces…
10. …and the pressure plate, paying attention to the absence of deep scratches, nicks, dents, obvious signs of wear and overheating. Replace defective units.
11. If the riveted connections of the casing parts and the pressure plate become loose, replace the pressure plate assembly.
Material copied from this website www.opelbook.ru
12. Assess the condition of the diaphragm spring of the pressure plate by visual inspection. The presence of cracks on the diaphragm spring is not allowed. Places A the contact surfaces of the spring petals with the clutch release bearing must be in the same plane and have no obvious signs of wear (wear should not exceed 0.8 mm). Otherwise, replace the pressure plate assembly.
13. Inspect the connecting links of the housing and the disc. If the links are deformed or broken, replace the pressure plate assembly.
14. Assess the condition of the pressure spring support rings on the outer and inner sides of the spring by visual inspection. The rings should not have cracks or signs of wear. Otherwise, replace the pressure plate assembly.
15. Before installing the clutch, check the ease of movement of the driven disk along the splines of the primary shaft of the gearbox. If necessary, eliminate the causes of jamming or replace defective parts.
16. Apply high-melting grease to the splines of the driven disk hub.
17. When installing the clutch, first install the driven disk using a mandrel…
Note: Install the slave disk so that the inscription "FLYWHEEL SIDE" was directed towards the flywheel (the protruding part of the disc hub must be directed towards the diaphragm spring of the clutch housing).
18. ...and then the pressure plate casing, aligning the marks made before removal, and screw in the bolts securing its casing to the flywheel.
19. Tighten the bolts evenly with a torque of 15 Nm, one turn of the wrench each, moving from bolt to bolt in turn according to diameter.
20. Remove the mandrel and install the gearbox.
21. Check the operation of the clutch (see Checking the Clutch Release Pedal Travel).
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