The condition check is carried out every year.
A wide range of engine failures are associated with a malfunction of the cooling system. On models equipped with AT, this system also provides ATF cooling, thereby maintaining the most favorable conditions for transmission operation.
Checking the condition of the cooling system components should be done after the power unit has completely cooled down (not less than three hours after the engine has been stopped).
1. Remove the cap from the expansion tank. The coolant in the system should be relatively clear. If the coolant is rust-colored, the system should be flushed and filled with fresh coolant (see Chapter Engine cooling, interior heating and air conditioning systems). If the fluid level does not reach the top, add a little more of the mixture of the required composition to the radiator (see section Checking fluid levels).
2. Carefully inspect the upper and lower radiator hoses along with the smaller diameter cabin heating hoses located between the power unit and the engine compartment bulkhead. Check the hoses along their entire length and replace any defective components if cracks, bulges or signs of material aging are detected. Small cracks are usually easier to see when squeezing the hose
Examples of typical defects of radiator hoses
Check the hoses for frayed areas.
Softening of rubber indicates the beginning of its destruction as a result of aging.
Tightening the clamp too tightly in order to more securely fix it on the nipple/nipple of a hardened hose does not help stop the leak, but only leads to the destruction of the hose material.
Check all hoses for bulges and signs of oil seepage at the ends. Cracks and small breaks in the rubber are easier to detect when squeezing the hose
The authors of this Guide recommend replacing hoses approximately every two years, regardless of their condition.
[Text was copied from the portal opelbook]
3. Check that all hoses are securely fastened to their fittings/pipes. Coolant leaks usually appear as rusty or white streaks on the surfaces surrounding their source. If the hoses are secured to the fittings/pipes with twist-type clamps, it would be wise to replace them with more reliable worm or screw-type clamps.
4. Using compressed air or a soft brush, remove old leaves, insect remains and other debris from the gaps between the radiator heat exchanger plates. Try not to damage the soft heat exchanger plates or cut your fingers on their sharp edges.
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