Replacement is carried out every year.
All engines
When changing the oil, the oil filter should also be replaced. Under severe operating conditions, such as frequent short trips, frequent cold starts and operation on dusty roads, change the oil and filter every 5000 km.
Regular and fairly frequent replacement of engine oil is one of the main preventive maintenance procedures for a car that lies within the skill of the average amateur mechanic. Over time, motor oil is subject to aging, which is manifested in its gradual dilution and contamination, leading to premature wear of internal engine components. Despite the fact that some sources recommend replacing the oil filter only every second engine oil change, the compilers of this Guide believe that due to the relative insignificance of the cost of the replacement component and the importance of its condition on the proper functioning of the engine and the efficiency of its output, it makes sense to change the filter every time you change the oil.
Make sure you have all the materials and tools needed to perform the oil change and oil filter on hand. Also, have enough rags and old newspapers ready to collect any traces of spilled oil. When changing the oil, you will also need an aluminum or copper o-ring for the drain plug (sometimes supplied with an oil filter), oil filter cartridge, and on DOHC engines 1.0 and 1.2 l - the filter and O-rings for the filter cover and, if necessary, a drain plug.
A set of tools needed to change the engine oil and oil filter
1 - Drain container - should be shallow and wide enough to minimize the chance of spilling oil on the ground
2 - Rubber gloves - will help protect your hands from burns if oil inevitably gets on them while turning out the drain plug of the oil pan
3 - Gate - sometimes the drain plug is tightened quite tightly, which requires considerable effort when turning it out
4 - Replaceable end head - used in tandem with a gate or a drive equipped with a ratchet when turning out the drain plug, must correspond to the latter in size
5 - Tape key - allows you to unscrew the full-flow oil filter in conditions of limited access to it
6 - Special ring wrench - is put on the end of the filter and can then be rotated using a winch or ratchet drive, must match the filter housing in size
In order to provide free access to the oil pan and oil filter, lift the car with a winch, drive it onto a flyover, or jack it up and place it on props.
Do not carry out any work under the vehicle, supported only by the bumper or held in a raised position only by a jack!
1. Get under the vehicle and familiarize yourself with the location of the oil pan drain plug and oil filter. Remember that the power unit and components of the exhaust system will remain hot enough during the entire procedure - consider a safe hand manipulation scheme to avoid accidental contact with heated surfaces.
Location of the oil pan drain plug
On petrol engines, oil can be sucked out using a probe through the guide tube of the oil level dipstick.
2. Make sure that the vehicle is level on stands or a lift. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature - hot oil is more fluid and better flushes out sludge and sediment. Use the forced downtime in order to lay out in a convenient manner all the necessary tools and materials. Stop the engine and remove the cap from the engine oil filler neck.
3. Make sure that the car is securely fixed in the raised position.
4. Being careful, get under the car and place a drain container under the oil pan, so that at the first moment the jet will flow out through the hole with a decent pressure. Taking care not to touch the hot surfaces of the power unit and exhaust system components, remove the drain plug from the bottom of the oil pan. Depending on the temperature of the oil, at the final stage of turning the cork, you can use rubber gloves, or refuse them.
5. Allow the oil to flow freely into the container, adjusting the position of the latter accordingly as the pressure of the jet weakens. Check the drained oil for the presence of metal filings.
6. After the oil stops flowing from the crankcase, carefully wipe the drain plug and the surface of the sump around the drain hole with a clean rag, small metal filings may stick to them, which will immediately lead to contamination of fresh oil.
7. On all engines, except DOHC 1.0 and 1.2 L, install the drain plug with a new sealing ring and tighten it to the required torque. On turbo diesel engine 1.5 l Disconnect the coolant reservoir and take it aside.
8. On all engines, except DOHC 1.0 and 1.2 L, Move the drain pan under the oil filter.
All engines except DOHC 1.0 and 1.2 L
The location of the oil filter is shown. To remove the filter, you can either use a special tool, or insert a sharp screwdriver into the filter from the side and unscrew the filter.
Oil filter location on engines other than DOHC 1.0 and 1.2L
1. Drain the oil from the oil filter into a container underneath.
2. Clean the filter flange with fuel.
3. Remove the rest of the seal.
4. When installing the rubber seal on a new filter, lightly lubricate the seal with engine oil.
5. Screw in the new filter by hand. If the filter seal lies on the cylinder block, tighten the filter an additional half turn. Pay attention to the instructions given on the filter.
DOHC 1.0 and 1.2L engines
1. Unscrew the cover of the oil filter housing with the corresponding head
Location of the oil filter on 1.0 and 1.2 liter engines
2. After the oil drains from the filter, remove the filter element.
3. Install the cover (3) oil filter with filter element (1) and new sealing ring (2)
Oil filter design
4. Tighten the drain plug with a new o-ring 10 Nm.
All models
1. Reinstall the crankcase if equipped. Collect traces of spilled oil, remove drain pan and tools from under the car. Lower the car to the ground.
2. Pour fresh oil into the engine intake - use a funnel to minimize wastage. Having filled in about half the required amount, wait a few minutes, allowing the oil to drain into the sump, then check its level on the dipstick (see Section Fluid level checks). If the level is above the low mark, start the engine with fresh oil circulating (the oil pressure indicator lamp at the first start may go out with a certain delay associated with the need to fill the volume of the filter element).
Pouring engine oil into the intake neck
To raise the oil level from the bottom (MIN) marks on the dipstick to the top (MAX) a little less than one liter of oil is required.
3. After running the engine for about a minute, shut it off again, and immediately look under the vehicle, checking for leaks from the drain plug and full flow filter. Tighten the leaking component slightly if necessary.
4. During the circulation of oil through the engine (about 1 minute), the new oil filter is being filled. Now it is necessary to check the oil level again and, if necessary, add some more of it, bringing the level to the upper mark on the dipstick blade (check a few minutes after turning off the engine - the oil should have time to completely drain into the oil pan).
Pump out excess oil, because. otherwise, engine seals and catalytic converter may be damaged.
5. On turbo diesel engine 1.5 l install the tank.
6. During the first few trips after changing the engine oil, check the oil level as often as possible.
7. Used oil drained from the engine cannot be reused and must be handed over to a special collection point. In no case do not drain the waste to the ground or into the sewer - pour it into a hermetically sealed container and hand it over as soon as possible.
8. To improve engine operating conditions, oils of the same type and brand should be used. Therefore, at each oil change, remember or write down its brand and viscosity. The use of different types of oils is not recommended. It is also not recommended to mix oils of the same type, but different brands. Oils of the same type and brand, but of different viscosities, if necessary, can be added to the system during the transition from season to season.
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