There is no voltage at the starter motor/
- Battery is low
- The battery has an internal defect - The battery terminals are loose or the ground is not securely attached to the body
- Loose or broken connections in the starter motor circuit
- Starter motor switch or solenoid is faulty
Voltage is supplied to the starter motor - the motor does not work/
- The motor brushes are severely worn, or their wires are stuck or loose
- The commutator is worn out, dirty or burnt out. The starter motor armature is faulty
- Field coils grounded
Electrical problems/
- Battery is discharged
- Starter brushes are severely worn, stuck or disconnected
- Poor connections in the starter motor circuit
- Dirt or oil on drive gear
The starter motor is noisy or has poor traction/
- Broken or worn gear or flywheel teeth
- Starter main drive spring broken
- Starter motor mounting bolts are loose
The generator does not charge*/
- The alternator drive belt is loose, or has jumped off, or is damaged
- Brushes are worn, stuck, broken or dirty
- Brush springs are weak or broken
* if everything turns out to be in order, but the generator still does not charge, you must provide the car for inspection by a specialist; you must check the generator and regulator
- The battery does not hold a charge for more than a few days
- Internal battery defect
- Electrolyte level is too low or the electrolyte concentration is too weak due to leakage
- Separator plates are no longer effective
- Battery plates are heavily sulfated
- Drive belt slips
- Battery contacts are loose or corroded
- The generator is not charging properly
- Short circuit causing continuous battery leakage
- Internal regulator is not working properly
The ignition indicator does not turn off, the battery is discharged within a few days/
- The drive belt is loose and slips, or is damaged
- Generator is faulty
If individual electrical appliances fail, check the following:
- The fuel level sensor shows nothing at all (see also Chapter 3)
- Fuel tank is empty
- The electrical wire between the sensor in the tank and the device is grounded or damaged
- The device casing is not grounded
- The power cord of the device is damaged
- Sensor is faulty
The fuel level sensor shows a constantly full tank/
- The electrical wire between the sensor in the tank and the device is damaged or disconnected
The sound signal works all the time/
- Horn button is grounded or stuck
- The wire from the horn button is grounded
The sound signal does not work at all/
- The fuse is blown
- Wire or connections are loose, damaged, or disconnected
- The sound signal has an internal defect
The beep sounds intermittently or is not what you expect
- Poor wiring connections
- The sound signal is incorrectly adjusted
The lighting does not turn on/
- If the engine does not run, the battery is discharged
- Bulbs burned out or broken
- Electrical wiring is disconnected or damaged
- The switch is short circuited or faulty
The lighting turns on, but quickly dims/
- If the engine does not run, the battery is discharged
The headlights give off very weak light/
- Dirty headlight glasses
- The reflector is damaged or dirty
- Headlights are very misaligned
- Very low wattage light bulb installed
- Existing light bulbs are old
- The wiring is too thin and cannot transmit the required voltage
The headlights shine unevenly, especially during jolts/
- Battery contacts or ground are disconnected
- Headlights are not properly grounded
- Switch contacts are faulty
Windshield wiper motor does not work/
- The fuse is blown
- Electrical wiring contacts are damaged or disconnected
- Brushes are very worn
- Anchor worn or defective
- Field coils are faulty
The windshield wiper motor is slow and consumes a lot of electricity/
- The switch is dirty or burnt out
- Spindle drive is bent or not lubricated
- Spindle is bent or damaged
- Armature bearings are dry or out of adjustment
- The anchor is badly worn or defective
The windshield wiper motor runs slowly and consumes little electricity/
- Brushes are very worn
- The switch is dirty, oily, or burnt
- The anchor is badly worn or defective
The windshield wiper motor works, but the blades do not move/
- Connecting elements are disconnected or faulty
- Drive spindle is worn or damaged
- Motor drive parts are badly worn
Brushes do not go back into place after switching off/
- Relay faulty
Incorrect operation of brushes, lack of intermediate mode/
- Relay faulty
The brushes work continuously when the intermediate mode is turned on/
- Motor faulty
The brushes don't stay in place/
- Relay or motor faulty (more detailed diagnostics should be performed)
The windshield wiper motor starts working unexpectedly/
- The secondary windings of the coil are faulty (open circuit)
- Alternator voltage regulator faulty * Washer pump wires too close to high voltage wires
- Carburetor solenoid shutoff valve is faulty
- Poor grounding at the wiper motor mounting screw
* Installing a suppression capacitor on the generator is the primary source of problems in this case. If this is not the case, it may be necessary to replace the voltage regulator
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