There is no voltage on the starter motor/
- The battery is discharged
- The battery has an internal defect - The battery contacts are loose or the ground is not firmly attached to the body
- Loose or broken connections in the starter motor circuit
- Starter motor switch or solenoid is faulty
Voltage is supplied to the starter motor—the motor does not work/
- The motor brushes are badly worn, or stuck, or their wires are loose
- The commutator is worn, dirty or burnt out. The starter motor anchor is faulty
- The field coils were grounded
Electrical problems/
- The battery is in a discharged state
- The starter brushes are badly worn, stuck or disconnected
- Bad connections in the starter motor circuit
- Dirt or oil on the drive gear
The starter motor is noisy or has poor engagement/
- Broken or worn teeth on the gear or flywheel
- The starter main drive spring is broken
- The starter motor mounting bolts are loose
Generator not charging*/
- The alternator drive belt is loose, has come off, or is damaged
- The brushes are worn out, stuck, broken or dirty
- The brush springs are weak or broken
* if everything is in order, but the generator still does not charge, you must provide the car for inspection by a specialist, it is necessary to check the generator and regulator
- The battery does not hold a charge for more than a few days
- Internal battery defect
- The electrolyte level is too low or the electrolyte concentration is too weak due to leakage
- The separator plates are no longer effective
- The battery plates are heavily sulfated
- The drive belt is slipping
- Battery contacts are loose or corroded
- The generator is not charging properly
- A short circuit in the circuit causing a constant leak from the battery
- The internal regulator is not working properly
The ignition indicator does not turn off, the battery discharges in a few days/
- The drive belt is loose and slipping, or is damaged
- Generator is faulty
If individual electrical appliances fail, check the following:
- The fuel level sensor shows nothing at all (see also Chapter 3)
- The fuel tank is empty
- The electrical wire between the sensor in the tank and the device is grounded or damaged
- The device casing is not grounded
- The power cord of the device is damaged
- The sensor is faulty
The fuel level sensor constantly shows a full tank/
- The electrical wire between the sensor in the tank and the instrument cluster is damaged or disconnected
The sound signal works all the time/
- Horn button is grounded or stuck
- The wire from the horn button is grounded
The sound signal does not work at all/
- The fuse has blown
- The wire or its connections are loose, damaged or disconnected
- The sound signal has an internal defect
The horn is making intermittent sounds or not the sounds you expect
- Poor electrical connections
- The sound signal is not adjusted correctly
The lighting does not turn on/
- If the engine does not work, the battery is discharged
- The light bulbs are burnt out or broken
- The electrical wiring is disconnected or damaged
- The switch is short-circuited or faulty
The lights turn on but quickly fade
- If the engine does not work, the battery is discharged
The headlights give off very little light
- Dirty headlights
- The reflector is damaged or dirty
- The headlights are severely out of alignment
- A very low power light bulb is installed
- The existing light bulbs are old
- The wiring is too thin and cannot transmit the required voltage
The headlights shine unevenly, especially when jolted/
- Battery contacts or ground are disconnected
- Headlights are not grounded properly
- The switch contacts are faulty
Windscreen wiper motor not working/
- The fuse has blown
- Electrical wiring contacts are damaged or disconnected
- The brushes are badly worn out
- The anchor is worn out or faulty
- Field coils are faulty
The windshield wiper motor is slow and uses a lot of electricity
- The switch is dirty or burnt out
- The spindle drive is bent or not lubricated
- The spindle is bent or damaged
- Anchor bearings are dry or out of adjustment
- The anchor is badly worn or faulty
The windshield wiper motor operates slowly and consumes little electricity
- The brushes are badly worn out
- The switch is dirty, oily or burnt out
- The anchor is badly worn or faulty
The windshield wiper motor works but the blades do not move/
- Connecting elements are disconnected or faulty
- The drive spindle is worn or damaged
- The engine drive parts are badly worn
Brushes do not fall into place after switching off/
- The relay is faulty
Incorrect operation of brushes, lack of intermediate mode/
- The relay is faulty
The brushes work continuously when the intermediate mode is turned on/
- Motor faulty
The brushes don't fit into place/
- Relay or motor faulty (a more detailed diagnosis should be made)
Windshield wiper motor starts working unexpectedly/
- The secondary windings of the coil are faulty (open circuit)
- Generator voltage regulator defective * Washer pump wires too close to high voltage wires
- Carburetor solenoid shut off valve is faulty
- Poor grounding at the windshield wiper motor mounting screw
* Installing a suppressor capacitor on the generator is the primary cause of this source of problems. If this is not the case, it may be necessary to replace the voltage regulator

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