Therefore, on the radiator on the right (when viewed along the way) thermostatic switch installed. When he «feels», that the liquid flowing past it is still too hot, then turns on the fan. In the same way, it turns off the electric fan if the temperature below in the radiator drops to a certain value.
Tip: Due to the electrical connection via terminal 30 (in 1.8 and 2.0 l engines) The fan may suddenly start running even when the engine is off. Be careful while working in the engine compartment!
Radiator Fan Thermal Switch
On 1.6L engines, the thermal switch turns on the radiator fan at about 100°C and turns it off again at about 95°C. When the cut-in temperature is reached, the contact in the switch closes the electrical circuit of the radiator fan and it turns on. Current flows to the fan through terminal 15A from the ignition switch only when the ignition is on.
In 1.8 / 2.0 l engines, the electric radiator fan has a two-stage switch. At the appropriate switch-on temperature, the electric circuit of the radiator fan closes the first contact in the thermal switch. There is an additional resistance in this circuit, which reduces the voltage and causes the fan to run at only half the speed of rotation. If the coolant temperature continues to rise, the thermal switch closes a second electrical circuit. The current bypasses the resistance, the motor receives a non-reduced voltage, and its impeller rotates at full speed. Due to the high power consumption, current flows through two fan relays, which are located in the relay box next to the battery.
Radiator Fan Malfunctions
A failed radiator fan can cause the coolant temperature to rise too high, but only when idling for a long time, such as in a traffic jam on a festive evening in the city or on the autobahn. But a failed fan does not mean the end of the trip:
- After the engine has cooled down a bit, you can smoothly drive at medium speeds to the nearest workshop. At the same time, do not lose sight of the temperature indicator.
- On the contrary, idling and slow movement are dangerous for the engine. Almost no cooling air flow passes through the radiator fins. If due to traffic conditions it is necessary to drive at a low speed, then the cause of the malfunction should be immediately identified and, if necessary, the thermal switch should be bridged.
Left: The water pump is fixed with three bolts on the front side of the engine.
On right: In vehicles with a 16V engine, when screwing on the water pump, take into account its installation position: both marks on the pump must match.
Thermal switch (2) The radiator fan is screwed into the Vectra on the right side of the radiator (1). The thermal switch turns the radiator fan on or off depending on the coolant temperature.
Troubleshooting the radiator fan
Check the appropriate fuses first.
If they are OK, disconnect the thermoswitch wire connector.
Close both pins of the wire connector with a piece of wire.
On a two-stage thermal switch, short all three connector tabs.
If now the fan will work with the ignition on, then (here experimentally) The thermal switch removed from the electrical circuit is faulty.
To continue your journey, firmly clamp the jumper into the connector and insulate it with duct tape or plaster to prevent short circuits.
If the thermal switch jumper did not help, then with 1.8 and 2.0 L engines, check the fan relay (see chapter «Tools and devices»): when both connecting wires of the thermal switch are bridged, you should hear the switching contacts in the relay close when the ignition is switched on.
If this is not the case, then you need to make a temporary relay jumper. To do this, connect the plug tabs of terminals 30 and 87 of the relay with a piece of wire (paper clip) and insert the relay.
The radiator fan should now rotate even with the ignition off. If so, the relay is faulty.
A jumper wire can be installed as emergency temporary roadside assistance. After the trip, it should be removed.
If no success has been achieved so far, now check the fan motor.
Disconnect the fan motor wire plug and route from the black wire pin instead (engine 1.6 l) or red/yellow wire (engine 1.8 and 2.0 l) auxiliary wire to the positive pole of the battery. The male connector of the brown or brown/white wire is directly connected to the negative pole.
If the propeller still does not rotate, then the fan motor is defective - replace.
But if the fan rotates, then with 1.8 and 2.0 liter engines, you need to check the relay (see chapter «Instruments and devices»). Otherwise, check all connections of the wires of the thermal switch and the electric fan.
With a fan heatsink powered directly by the battery, you too can continue your journey with peace of mind. Lay the auxiliary wire so that there is no short circuit.
radiator fan (arrow) with an electric drive is connected only if necessary. Please note that when the engine is warm, the fan may turn on at any time. This is for the case when, for example, when the ignition is on, measurement work is carried out in the engine compartment.
Removing the radiator fan
Disconnect the ground wire from the battery.
Disconnect the plug connector of the fan wire and remove the wiring harness on the air sampling funnel from the clips.
Unscrew the air intake funnel with the radiator fan at the top of the radiator, pull it out on the left and right from the mount and then pull it up out of the engine compartment.
If necessary, remove the fan impeller. To do this, wring out the mounting clips from the motor shaft with a screwdriver.
Loosen the three nuts and remove the fan from the intake funnel.
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