1. Remove the alternator from the vehicle (see Removal and installation of the generator).
2. Unscrew the two nuts of the power outputs of the generator..
Note. At the same time, the protective cover is attached to the nuts of the power leads.
3.... unscrew the screw securing the protective cover..
4.... and remove the casing.
5. Remove the three screws securing the voltage regulator with the brush assembly..
6.... and remove the voltage regulator with the brush assembly.
It looks like a voltage regulator with a brush assembly, removed from the generator.
Check the protrusion of the brushes in a free state. If size H is less than 2 mm, replace the brushes or brush assembly. Check the ease of movement of the brushes in the brush holder. If they are wedged, the brush assembly also needs to be replaced.
7. Open the crimped terminals of the rectifier block with a screwdriver until the ends of the six stator winding leads are completely released.
The photo shows three stator winding leads. The remaining three outputs are located on the rectifier block symmetrically.
Each stator winding lead consists of three wires.
8. Remove the two screws securing the rectifier unit..
Note. The third screw securing the rectifier unit, which simultaneously attached the protective cover, was turned out when removing the cover.
9.... and remove the rectifier block.
This is how the removed rectifier unit looks from the side of the protective casing..
... and so - from the stator side.
10. Mark the relative position of the stator and generator covers.
11. Remove the generator pulley from the rotor shaft (see Alternator pulley replacement).
12. Turn out four coupling bolts..
13.... and remove the cover from the side of the slip rings from the centering sleeve of the rear bearing of the rotor shaft.
14. Examine a cover from the side of contact rings. If cracks are found in the cover, especially in the places where the generator is attached, it is necessary to replace the cover with a new one.
15. Carefully pry the stator with a screwdriver and separate the stator and drive side cover.
16. Turn out four screws of a pressure plate of the forward bearing of a shaft of a rotor.
17. Press the drive side cover off the rotor shaft front bearing..
Note. In order not to damage the threaded shank of the rotor shaft with the puller screw, screw the pulley fastening nut flush with the end of the shaft onto it.
18.... and separate the rotor and cover.
19. Remove the distance washer from the front end of the rotor shaft..
20.... and a centering sleeve from the rear bearing of the rotor shaft.
21. Inspect the plastic centering sleeve of the rotor shaft rear bearing. The centering sleeve must be firmly seated in the hole in the cover. If the bearing is correctly seated in the sleeve, there should be no evidence of slippage of the bearing outer ring.
22. Inspect the rotor shaft front bearing. If during rotation of the bearing there is play between the rings, rolling or jamming of the rolling elements, damaged protective rings or grease leaks, replace the bearing. To replace the bearing, press it off the rotor shaft with a universal puller. Press the new bearing onto the shaft, applying force only to its inner ring.
Attention! Pressing a bearing against its outer race will damage the bearing.
23. Inspect the rear rotor shaft bearing. If during rotation of the bearing you feel play between the rings, rolling or jamming of the rolling elements, damaged protective rings or grease leaks, replace the rotor, since the non-removable block of slip rings does not allow pressing the bearing from the rotor shaft.
24. Inspect slip rings. If they have scuffs, scratches, scratches, wear marks from brushes and other damage, the rings must be ground. If damage to the rings cannot be removed with sandpaper, you can grind the rings on a lathe, removing the minimum layer of metal, and then grind.
25. Check the resistance of the rotor winding with a tester by connecting it to slip rings. The resistance should be approximately 3-5 ohms. If the tester shows infinity, then there is a break in the rotor winding - the rotor must be replaced.
26. Check the absence of a short circuit in the rotor winding to the housing by connecting the tester leads to any slip ring and the rotor housing. The tester should show infinity.
27. Check the stator winding for an open circuit, alternately measuring the resistance between all winding leads with a tester. If the measured resistance tends to infinity, then the stator must be replaced.
28. Connect the tester probes to the stator housing and, in turn, to each winding terminal. The measured resistance must be very large (strive for infinity). Otherwise, replace the stator.
29. Check «positive» diodes by connecting «negative» (black) tester probe to output «plus» generator, and «positive» (red) the probe is alternately connected to the three contact leads of the diodes. If the diodes are good, the tester will show 500-700 ohms.
30. Connect «positive» (red) tester probe to output «plus» generator, and «negative» (black) connect the probe in turn to the same three contact leads of the diodes. If the diodes are good, the tester will show infinite resistance.
31. Similarly check «minus» diodes, connecting the tester probes in the same sequence as when checking «positive» diodes.
32. If the tester shows low or close to zero resistance, the diode «broken»; if the tester reading tends to infinity, regardless of the color of the connected probes, the diode «in the cliff». In both cases, the rectifier unit must be replaced.
33. Assemble the generator in the reverse order of disassembly, orienting the generator covers and the stator according to the previously made marks.
Attention! Rectifier block terminals unclenched during disassembly (see point 7 above in this subsection) after installing the stator winding leads in them, crimp with tongs or pliers until the lead wires stop moving in the terminals.
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