1. The engine does not turn over when trying to start it
1. The battery terminals are corroded or the wire ends are loose. Check the condition of the terminals and lugs. Tighten the terminal clamps, if necessary, remove traces of corrosion.
2. Discharged or defective battery. If the wire lugs are found clean and securely attached to the battery terminals, turn the ignition key to the ON position, then turn on the headlights and/or windshield wipers. If this electrical equipment does not function, the battery is dead.
3. Transmission is not correctly set in position «R» (AT) or into neutral (RKPP), or the clutch is not fully depressed.
4. The wiring in the starting system circuit is broken or the wires are loose on the terminals. Check the condition of the wires, terminals and electrical connectors of the battery, the starter traction relay and the ignition switch.
5. Starter gear stuck in flywheel ring gear. On models equipped with a manual transmission, install it in gear and, manually pulling it into the car, turn the engine over. At the first opportunity, remove the starter and check the condition of the gear and flywheel ring gear.
6. Defective starter relay.
7. Faulty starter.
8. Faulty ignition lock.
2. Engine cranks but won't start
1. Wrong start. Act in accordance with Section «Controls and methods of operation».
2. Faulty or disabled engine immobilizer.
3. The emergency switch of the fuel pump is faulty.
4. The fuel tank is empty, or low-quality fuel is filled.
5. Clogged fuel filter. Fuel lines damaged, clogged or leaking, hoses defective.
6. The air filter is very dirty. There are vacuum leaks in the air supply elements, malfunctions in the fuel injection and ignition control system.
7. Low battery (engine cranks too slowly).
8. The battery terminals are oxidized or the wire lugs are loose on them.
9. No signal from ignition sensor or ECT sensor. Check the condition of its electrical wiring, poll the memory of the OBD II system.
10. Damaged fuel pressure regulator - check residual pressure.
11. Excess air is sucked into the intake tract as a result of leakage. Vacuum pipes are damaged, or there is a violation of the tightness of their fit.
12. The tightness of the power supply system is broken.
Gas engine
13. The fuel pump is faulty, or its relay is damaged - check by ear that the pump is activated when the ignition is turned on.
14. Damaged or excessively wet components of the ignition system.
15. Worn or defective spark plugs, or incorrect spark plug gap.
16. Open circuit in the starting system.
17. Faulty ignition module.
18. The fuse of the engine control module is damaged, any of the sensors of the engine management system is faulty.
19. Low compression pressure.
20. Stuck injector valves. Check injectors, replace if necessary. Check the voltage supply to the injectors.
Diesel engine
21. The engine is not warmed up: check the correct operation of the preheat system.
22. The adjustment of the start of the fuel supply is knocked down. On models with a distribution injection pump, check and correct.
23. Faulty nozzles. Check. Loosen the union nuts in sequence - when the nut of the defective injector is given out, the engine speed will not drop.
24. Faulty high pressure fuel pump (injection pump). Install a known-good injection pump for testing.
25. There is no voltage at the solenoid shut-off valve. Connect a voltmeter or LED probe to the switch. Turn on the ignition. The LED should light up. Otherwise, you should find a break in the wiring and eliminate it.
26. Faulty solenoid shut-off valve. Check the reliability of the fastening of the electromagnetic switch, check the contacts. Turn the ignition on and off. The switch should click.
27. There is damage in the fuel supply line or air in the lines:
- a) Pipelines or hoses are mechanically damaged or clogged. Clean fuel lines and bleed air from lines and filter;
- b) Fuel filter clogged. Replace the filter element;
- c) In winter, the filter and piping should be checked for ice or wax. Put the car in a heated garage, add gasoline to the system;
- d) Clogged tank vent or fuel inlet strainer. Clean out.
3. The starter functions without cranking the engine
1. Stuck starter gear. Remove the starter (see chapter 5) and check its status.
2. Worn or damaged starter gear teeth or flywheel crown.
4. Engine start difficult
1. Low or insufficient battery (see Section 11).
2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power system or electrical equipment (see chapters 4 and 5).
3. Paraffin has accumulated in the diesel engine fine filter. Replace filter element. Refuel with winter fuel, or dilute with gasoline.
4. Faulty diesel engine glow plugs.
5. The compression pressure in the cylinders has dropped.
6. The patency of the air filter is broken.
7. Fuel does not reach the injection system injectors. The fuel pressure does not match the required value. Pressure regulator damaged - check residual pressure.
8. Increased fuel pressure in the fuel system - the fuel pump check valve is damaged, or the fuel return line to the tank is clogged or crumpled.
9. The installation of the gas distribution phases of the engine is violated, or the adjustment of the valves (on some diesel engines). The moment of the start of fuel supply is knocked down.
10. Faults in the engine management system. Check the condition of the relevant electrical wiring, interrogate the OBD II system.
11. Excess air is sucked into the intake tract as a result of leakage. Leaks in the fuel system.
12. Stuck injector valves. Check injectors, replace if necessary. Check the voltage supply to the injectors.
5. Starter engagement is too noisy or difficult
1. Worn or damaged starter gear teeth or drive disc ring.
2. Lost or insufficiently tightened starter mounting bolts.
3. There is an internal malfunction of the starter. Replace starter.
6. Engine stalls immediately after starting
1. Faulty engine immobilizer.
2. Faulty wiring, or loose wires on the generator terminals.
3. The correct functioning of the components of the power system or electrical equipment is broken.
4. The basic settings of the engine control module are violated (ECM).
5. There is damage in the exhaust system and reduce the toxicity of exhaust gases.
6. Vacuum loss occurs at the throttle body, intake manifold, or through the vacuum hoses.
7. The stability of the idle speed of the engine is broken
Gas engine
1. There is a loss of vacuum Make sure that the fasteners are securely tightened, check the fact and quality of fastening on their fittings on the inlet pipeline of all vacuum hoses. Listen to the running engine with a stethoscope or a piece of fuel hose - a hissing sound indicates a leak. Equally effective is the use of a soapy solution for testing.
2. The functioning of the components of the power system or electrical equipment is broken.
3. The patency of the valve of the controlled crankcase ventilation system is disturbed (PCV).
4. The patency of the air filter is broken.
5. The fuel pump is not supplying enough fuel to the injectors.
6. There are leaks through the cylinder head gasket - measure the compression in the engine cylinders (see chapter 2).
7. Camshaft lobes worn out.
8. Faults in the engine management system.
9. The content of CO does not meet the regulatory requirements - make an appropriate measurement, check the idle speed.
10. Stuck injector valves. Check injectors, replace if necessary. Check the voltage supply to the injectors.
Diesel engine
11. The quality of the connections of the fuel pipelines with the injection pump and the fuel filter is broken. Replace the fuel hoses, secure them with clamps, tighten the corner screws.
12. Mechanically damaged or loose fastening of the injection pump. Check fastening.
13. The connections of the return pipeline and the fuel supply pipeline are reversed.
14. There is damage in the fuel supply line:
- a) Pipelines or hoses are mechanically damaged or clogged. Clean fuel lines;
- b) Fuel filter clogged. Replace the filter element;
- c) In winter, the filter and piping should be checked for ice or wax. Put the car in a heated garage, add gasoline to the system;
- d) Clogged tank vent or fuel inlet strainer. Clean out.
15. The adjustment of the start of the fuel supply is knocked down. Check, make adjustments.
16. Faulty nozzles. Check. Loosen the union nuts in sequence - when the nut of a defective cylinder is unscrewed, the engine speed will not drop.
17. Faulty injection pump. Install a known-good injection pump for testing.
8. There are gaps in the operation of the cylinders at idle
1 Worn or dirty spark plugs or incorrect spark plug gap.
2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power system or electrical equipment.
3. Low-quality fuel is filled, or the fuel filter is blocked.
4. There is a loss of vacuum in the intake manifold or through the hose connections.
5. Low or unevenly distributed compression in the cylinders.
6. The operation of the engine management system is disrupted.
7. Malfunction of the EVAP system.
8. Incorrect idle adjustment. Check TPS and lambda adjustment.
9. There are gaps in the operation of the engine cylinders when the vehicle is moving in gear
1. Blocked fuel filter or contaminated fuel system.
2. Faulty or dirty spark plugs or incorrect spark plug gap.
3. There is a malfunction of the components of the power system or electrical equipment.
4. Components of system of decrease in toxicity of the fulfilled gases are faulty.
5. Low or unevenly distributed compression in the cylinders.
6. Faulty ignition system.
7. Vacuum loss occurs at the throttle body, intake manifold, or through the vacuum hoses.
10. Engine runs rough
1. Fuel pump wiring connections are broken from time to time. Check wiring connectors and fuses for fuel pump, MAF sensor and fuel pump relay.
2. Poor fuel quality, vapor lock formation.
3. Weak fuel supply.
4. Defective fuel filter.
5. Faulty fuel pump.
6. Faulty injectors.
7. The lambda probe is faulty, there are violations in the mixture quality control circuit or there is no lambda probe heating.
8. Faulty TPS.
9. Damaged exhaust manifold or exhaust pipe (there are exhaust gas leaks).
10. Malfunction of the EVAP system.
11. Stuck injector valves. Check injectors, replace if necessary. Check the voltage supply to the injectors.
12. No signal from ignition sensor or ECT sensor. Check the condition of its electrical wiring, poll the memory of the OBD II system.
13. Excess air is sucked into the intake tract as a result of leakage.
14. Damaged or leaking vacuum lines
15. Damaged pressure regulator, check residual pressure.
16. No power to the ECM.
11. Engine spontaneously stalls
1. Idle speed adjustment is broken.
2. The patency of the fuel filter is broken, or moisture or dirt has got into the power system.
3. There is a failure of the components / information sensors of the power system.
4. Components of systems of decrease in toxicity of the fulfilled gases are faulty.
5. Faulty or dirty spark plugs or incorrect spark plug gap.
6. There are vacuum losses at the throttle body or through the vacuum hoses.
12. The engine does not develop full power
1. There is a malfunction of the components of the power system or electrical equipment.
2. Air cleaner clogged.
3. Faulty spark plugs or incorrect spark plug gap.
4. Faulty ignition module.
5. Dropped ATF level.
6. Clutch slips / AT.
7. Blocked fuel filter and/or dirt/moisture in the fuel system.
8. Low-quality fuel was filled.
9. Low or unevenly distributed compression in the cylinders.
Optional for diesel engine
10. Clogged fuel filter or injection pump/injector. Flush the pre-filter, change the fine filter element, clean the atomizer or replace the pump/nozzle.
11. The adjustment of the maximum crankshaft speed is broken.
12. The pressure in the fuel supply system is lower than required.
13. There are pops in the intake system or shots in the exhaust system
1. The functioning of the components of the power system or electrical equipment is broken.
2. Internal malfunctions of the ignition module.
3. The fuel injection system needs to be adjusted, or its components are excessively worn.
4. There is vacuum loss at the throttle body, intake piping, or through the vacuum hoses.
5. Stuck valves.
14. Detonation sounds occur when accelerating or going uphill
1. Low-quality fuel was filled.
2. The functioning of the components of the power system or electrical equipment is broken.
3. Wrong type spark plugs installed.
4. The basic settings of the ECM are violated.
5. Faulty knock sensor.
6. There are vacuum losses.
15. The engine continues to run after the key is turned to «ABOUT»
1. Excessively high idle speed.
2. There is a malfunction of the electrical equipment or components of the engine management system.
3. Faulty canister purge valve of the vapor recovery system (EVAP).
4. High engine operating temperature (the coolant level has dropped, the thermostat is faulty, the radiator is blocked, or the water pump is faulty).
5. The tightness of the injectors is broken.
6. On a diesel engine, the fuel cut-off valve does not work.
16. Diesel engine smokes
1. Black smoke:
- a) The air cleaner is dirty. Replace the filter element;
- b) Wrong fuel used. Flush the tank and change the fuel.
2. Blue smoke:
- a) Burning oil in the combustion chamber due to worn piston rings or high oil level in the air cleaner. Repair the engine, correct the oil level;
- b) No fuel is being supplied to one of the injectors. Check for heating of the exhaust pipes of the manifold;
- c) Poor atomization of fuel by the injector due to a valve or atomizer failure. Lap the valve or replace the nozzle.
3. White or brown smoke:
- a) Low temperature in the cooling system. Check thermostat;
- b) Poor operation of nozzles due to wear of the atomizer or nozzle needle - «the nozzle is pouring». Replace sprayer and needle.
Engine electrical equipment
1. There is an internal defect in the battery.
18. The charging indicator lamp does not light up when the key is turned to the «I»
1. The control lamp is out of order.
2. The generator is faulty.
3. There is a defect in the printed circuit board, wiring inside the instrument cluster unit or lamp socket.
19. Charging indicator lamp does not go out when the engine is started
1. Loose drive belt tension.
2. Damaged voltage regulator and/or alternator.
3. The alternator brushes are worn out.
4. Damaged wire between generator and voltage regulator.
5. Faulty instrument cluster.
20. The charging indicator lamp does not go out when the key is turned to the «ABOUT»
1. Broken diodes.
Starter
1. The ground wire is broken, or the quality of its terminal connection is broken.
2. The weakening of the current strength due to a violation of the quality or oxidation of the contact connections.
3. There is no voltage at the traction relay terminal as a result of a broken electrical wiring or damage to the starter switch.
22. Starter rotates slowly and does not turn the crankshaft
1. Low battery.
2. Filled with summer oil.
3. The passage of current is difficult due to poor-quality contacts.
4. The carbon brushes are loose on the commutator, stuck in the guides, worn, broken, oily or dirty.
5. Insufficient distance between brushes and commutator.
6. The collector is grooved or burnt and oily.
7. No voltage on the terminal (minimum 8 V).
8. Broken bearing.
9. Faulty traction relay.
23. Starter «grasps», but provides cranking the engine only jerkily
1. Defective gear drive.
2. The gear is dirty.
3. The ring gear of the drive disk is damaged.
24. Starter gear does not disengage from flywheel/drive plate ring gear
1. Dirty or damaged gear drive components.
2. Faulty traction relay.
3. Return spring is weak or broken.
25. The starter continues to work after releasing the ignition key
1. The traction relay is stuck, - immediately turn off the ignition and replace the traction relay.
2. The ignition lock does not turn off, disconnect the battery, replace the lock.
Supply system
3. The engine has mechanical damage. Check the compression, if necessary, make the appropriate reconditioning.
4. Excessively high idle speed and maximum crankshaft speed.
5. There is a malfunction of the components of the power system, electrical equipment or electronic control.
6. Leaks in the air intake system.
7. There are damages in the exhaust system and reduce the toxicity of exhaust.
Optional for diesel engine
8. Clogged return line. Blow out the return line from the injection pump to the fuel tank with air.
9. The engine has mechanical damage. Check compression, repair engine if necessary.
27. There are fuel leaks and/or the smell of gasoline
1. There are leaks in the fuel lines or vent lines.
2. Fuel tank full. Refuel only until the gun automatically shuts off.
3. There are leaks / evaporation from the lines of power systems and reducing the toxicity of exhaust gases.
Lubrication system
30. Too low oil pressure at all speeds
1. The oil level has dropped.
2. Clogged oil pickup strainer in sump.
3. Worn oil pump.
4. Damaged crankshaft bearings.
31 Too low oil pressure at low speed
1. Worn crankshaft bearings.
2. Low viscosity of engine oil, dilution of oil due to strong heating, natural dilution of oil during operation or ingress of coolant into it. Check the condition of the oil immediately!
3. Low engine oil level.
32. Too high oil pressure at engine speeds above 2000 rpm
1. The system is filled with high viscosity oil.
2. Faulty/dirty pressure reducing valve.
Cooling system
35. External coolant leaks
1. Damaged or destroyed as a result of aging of the material, the hoses or loosened their fastening on the fittings.
2. The seals of the water pump are damaged, - the coolant oozes through the control hole in the pump housing.
3. There are leaks from the internal channels of the radiator or tank.
4. There are leaks from the engine drain plug or water gallery squeeze plugs.
36. Internal coolant leaks
Note: Internal coolant leaks are usually detected by checking the condition of the engine oil. Inspect the feeler blade and inside surfaces of the cover (lids) cylinders for traces of water and oil foaming.
1. There are leaks through the cylinder head gasket - check the cooling system with pressure.
2. There are cracks in the cylinder walls or in the head casting.
37. Loss of coolant occurs
1. Too much coolant has been added to the system.
2. The coolant boils away as a result of engine overheating.
3. There are internal or external coolant leaks.
38. Coolant circulation interrupted
1. The water pump is not functioning properly. The easiest way to verify the operation of the pump is to pinch the upper radiator hose while the engine is idling. If a push of liquid is felt inside the hose when the hose is released, the pump is functioning properly.
2. The patency of the cooling system is impaired - flush it and fill it with fresh liquid. If necessary, remove the radiator and backflush it.
3. The water pump drive belt is worn or damaged or its tension adjustment is broken.
4. Stuck thermostat.
Visitor comments