Engine and system malfunctions (Opel Vectra C)

If the engine does not start, the situation should be analyzed. For the engine to start at all, two basic conditions must be met. The air-fuel mixture must enter the cylinders, and a spark must be generated at the spark plug (petrol models). Therefore, first of all, you should check whether fuel is supplied. How to do this is described in Chapter 4. Most gasoline models described in this Manual are equipped with a single ignition module. Therefore, checking the serviceability of the ignition system should be carried out using special diagnostic equipment.

1. The engine does not turn over when trying to start it

1. There is corrosion of the battery terminals or the fastening of the wire tips on them is loose. Check the condition of the terminals and tips. Tighten the terminal clamps, remove traces of corrosion if necessary.



2. The battery is discharged or defective. If the cable ends are found to be clean and securely connected to the battery terminals, turn the ignition switch to the ON position, then turn on the headlights and/or windshield wipers. If these electrical equipment do not function, the battery is discharged.

3. The transmission is not correctly set to the "P" position (AT) or to neutral gear (manual transmission), or the clutch is not fully depressed.

4. The wiring in the starting system circuit is broken or the wires are loose at the terminals. Check the condition of the wires, terminals and electrical connectors of the battery, starter solenoid and ignition switch.

5. The starter pinion is jammed in the flywheel ring gear. On models equipped with a manual transmission, set it to gear and, pushing the car by hand, turn the engine over. Remove the starter at the first opportunity and check the condition of the pinion and flywheel ring gear.

6. The starter traction relay is faulty.

7. Starter is faulty.

8. The ignition switch is faulty.

2. The engine turns over but does not start

1. The start is not performed correctly. Proceed in accordance with the Section "Controls and operating techniques".

2. The engine immobilizer is faulty or not disabled.

3. The fuel pump emergency switch is faulty.

4. The fuel tank is empty or filled with low-quality fuel.

5. The fuel filter is clogged. The fuel lines are damaged, clogged or leaky, there are defects in the hoses.

6. The air filter is heavily soiled. There are vacuum leaks in the air supply elements, malfunctions in the fuel injection and ignition control systems.



7. The battery is discharged (the engine turns over too slowly).

8. The battery terminals are oxidized or the wire tips are loose.

9. There is no signal from the ignition sensor or ECT sensor. Check the condition of its wiring, query the OBD II system memory.

10. The fuel pressure regulator is damaged - check the residual pressure.

11. Excess air is sucked into the intake tract as a result of a leak. The vacuum lines are damaged or their seal is not tight enough.

12. The fuel system is leaking.

Gasoline engine

13. The fuel pump is faulty, or its relay is damaged - check by ear that the pump is activated properly when the ignition is turned on.

14. Ignition system components are damaged or excessively damp.

15. Spark plugs are worn or faulty, or the spark plug gap is set incorrectly.

16. Break in the starting system circuit.

17. Ignition module malfunction.

18. The engine control module fuse is damaged, one of the engine control system sensors is faulty.

19. Low compression pressure.

20. The injector valves are stuck. Check the injectors, replace if necessary. Check the voltage supply to the injectors.

Diesel engine

21. The engine is not warmed up: check the proper functioning of the pre-heating system.

22. The fuel supply start adjustment is out of adjustment. On models with a distribution fuel injection pump, check and make adjustments.

23. The injectors are faulty. Check. Loosen the union nuts one by one - when you loosen the nut of the faulty injector, the engine speed will not drop.

24. The high-pressure fuel pump (HPFP) is faulty. Install a known good HPFP for testing.



25. There is no voltage on the electromagnetic shut-off valve. Connect a voltmeter or LED tester to the switch. Turn on the ignition. The LED should light up. Otherwise, find the break in the wiring and fix it.

26. The electromagnetic shut-off valve is faulty. Check the reliability of the electromagnetic switch fastening, check the contacts. Turn the ignition on and off. A click should be heard in the switch.

27. There is damage in the fuel supply line or air in the lines:

• a) The lines or hoses are mechanically damaged or clogged. Clean the fuel lines and remove air from the lines and filter;
• b) The fuel filter is clogged. Replace the filter element;
• c) In winter, check the filter and lines for ice or wax. Park the car in a heated garage, add gasoline to the system;
• d) The tank ventilation or fuel intake mesh filter is clogged. Clean it.

3. The starter operates without turning the engine

1. The starter gear is jammed. Remove the starter (see Chapter 5) and check its condition.

2. The starter gear teeth or flywheel ring gear are worn or damaged.

4. The engine is difficult to start

1. The battery is discharged or not sufficiently charged (see Section 11).

2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power supply system or electrical equipment (see Chapters 4 and 5).

3. Paraffin has accumulated in the fine filter of the diesel engine. Replace the filter element. Fill with winter fuel or dilute with gasoline.

4. The glow plugs of the diesel engine are faulty.

5. The compression pressure in the cylinders has dropped.



6. The air filter is clogged.

7. Fuel does not reach the injection system injectors. Fuel pressure does not correspond to the required value. The pressure regulator is damaged - check the residual pressure.

8. Increased fuel pressure in the fuel system - the fuel pump check valve is damaged, or the return fuel line to the tank is clogged or crushed.

9. Engine valve timing or valve adjustment is incorrect (on some diesel engine models). The moment of fuel supply start is disrupted.

10. Malfunctions in the engine management system. Check the condition of the relevant electrical wiring, conduct a survey of the OBD II system.

11. Excess air is sucked into the intake tract as a result of a leak. Leaks in the fuel system.

12. The injector valves are stuck. Check the injectors, replace if necessary. Check the voltage supply to the injectors.

5. The starter engages too noisily or with difficulty

1. The teeth of the starter gear or the drive disk ring gear are worn or damaged.

2. The starter mounting bolts are missing or not tightened enough.

3. There is an internal fault with the starter. Replace the starter.

6. The engine stalls immediately after starting

1. The engine immobilizer is faulty.

2. The electrical wiring is faulty, or the wires on the generator terminals are loose.

3. The functioning of the power supply system components or electrical equipment is disrupted.

4. The basic settings of the engine control module (ECM) are violated.

5. There is damage in the exhaust system and a decrease in the toxicity of exhaust gases.



6. There are vacuum losses at the throttle body, intake manifold or through vacuum hoses.

7. The stability of the engine idle speed is disrupted

Gasoline engine

1. There is a loss of vacuum Make sure that the fasteners are tightened securely, check the fact and quality of fastening on their nipples on the intake manifold of all vacuum hoses. Listen to the running engine with a stethoscope or a section of fuel hose - the presence of a hissing sound indicates a leak. Using a soap solution for checking is no less effective.

2. The functioning of the power supply system components or electrical equipment is disrupted.

3. The crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve is clogged.

4. The air filter is clogged.

5. The fuel pump does not supply sufficient fuel to the injectors.

6. There are leaks through the cylinder head gasket - measure the compression in the engine cylinders (see Chapter 2).

7. The working projections of the camshaft cams are worn out.

8. Malfunctions in the engine management system.

9. The CO content does not meet regulatory requirements - take the appropriate measurement, check the idle speed.

10. The injector valves are stuck. Check the injectors, replace if necessary. Check the voltage supply to the injectors.

Diesel engine

11. The quality of the connections of the fuel lines with the high-pressure fuel pump and the fuel filter is damaged. Replace the fuel hoses, secure them with clamps, tighten the screws of the angular connections.

12. The fuel injection pump mount is mechanically damaged or loosened. Check the mount.



13. The connections of the return line and the fuel supply line are reversed.

14. There is damage in the fuel supply line:

• a) The pipes or hoses are mechanically damaged or clogged. Clean the fuel pipes;
• b) The fuel filter is clogged. Replace the filter element;
• c) In winter, check the filter and lines for ice or wax. Park the car in a heated garage, add gasoline to the system;
• d) The tank ventilation or fuel intake mesh filter is clogged. Clean it.

15. Fuel injection start adjustment is out of adjustment. Check and make adjustments.

16. The injectors are faulty. Check. Unscrew the union nuts one by one - when you unscrew the nut of the faulty cylinder, the engine speed will not drop.

17. The fuel injection pump is faulty. Install a known good fuel injection pump for testing.

8. There are misfires in the cylinders at idle speed

1 Spark plugs are worn or dirty, or the spark plug gap is set incorrectly.

2. There is a malfunction of the power supply system components or electrical equipment.

3. Poor quality fuel has been added or the fuel filter is clogged.

4. There are losses of vacuum in the intake manifold or through hose connections.

5. Low or unevenly distributed compression in the cylinders.

6. The engine control system is malfunctioning.

7. EVAP system malfunction.

8. Incorrect idle speed adjustment. Check TPS and lambda adjustment.

9. There are misfires in the engine cylinders when the car is moving in gear

1. The fuel filter is blocked or the fuel system is contaminated.

2. The spark plugs are faulty or dirty, or the spark plug gap is set incorrectly.



3. There is a malfunction of the power supply system components or electrical equipment.

4. Components of the exhaust gas toxicity reduction system are faulty.

5. Low or unevenly distributed compression in the cylinders.

6. The ignition system is faulty.

7. There are vacuum losses at the throttle body, intake manifold or through vacuum hoses.

10. The engine runs intermittently

1. Fuel pump wiring connections are intermittently loose. Check wiring connectors and fuses for the fuel pump, MAF sensor, and fuel pump relay.

2. Low fuel quality, formation of vapor locks.

3. Weak fuel supply.

4. The fuel filter is faulty.

5. The fuel pump is faulty.

6. The injectors are faulty.

7. The lambda probe is faulty, there are problems in the mixture quality control circuit, or the lambda probe is not heated.

8. TPS is faulty.

9. The exhaust manifold or exhaust pipe is damaged (there are exhaust gas leaks).

10. EVAP system malfunction.

11. The injector valves are stuck. Check the injectors, replace if necessary. Check the voltage supply to the injectors.

12. There is no signal from the ignition sensor or ECT sensor. Check the condition of its wiring, query the OBD II system memory.

13. As a result of a leak, excess air is sucked into the intake tract.

14. Vacuum lines are damaged or leaky

15. The pressure regulator is damaged, check the residual pressure.

16. No power to ECM.

11. The engine stalls spontaneously

1. Idle speed adjustment is incorrect.

2. The fuel filter is clogged, or moisture or dirt has entered the fuel system.

3. There is a failure of components/information sensors of the power supply system.

4. Components of exhaust gas toxicity reduction systems are faulty.

5. The spark plugs are faulty or dirty, or the spark plug gap is set incorrectly.

6. There are losses of vacuum at the throttle body or through the vacuum hoses.

12. The engine does not develop full power

1. There is a malfunction of the power supply system components or electrical equipment.

2. The air cleaner is clogged.

3. The spark plugs are faulty or the spark plug gap is set incorrectly.

4. Ignition module malfunction.

5. The ATF level has dropped.

6. Clutch/AT slips.

7. The fuel filter is blocked and/or dirt/moisture has entered the fuel system.

8. The fuel used was of poor quality.

9. Low or unevenly distributed compression in the cylinders.

Additional for diesel engine

10. The fuel filter or injection pump/nozzle is clogged. Wash the pre-filter, change the fine filter element, clean the spray nozzle or replace the pump/nozzle.

11. The maximum crankshaft speed adjustment is not correct.

12. The pressure in the fuel supply system is lower than required.

13. There are pops in the intake system or shots in the exhaust system

1. The functioning of the power supply system components or electrical equipment is disrupted.

2. Internal faults in the ignition module.

3. The fuel injection system needs adjustment, or its components are excessively worn.

4. There are vacuum losses at the throttle body, intake manifold or through vacuum hoses.

5. The valves are stuck.

14. When accelerating or driving uphill, detonation sounds occur

1. The fuel used was of poor quality.

2. The functioning of the power supply system components or electrical equipment is disrupted.

3. The wrong type of spark plugs are installed.

4. The basic ECM settings are violated.

5. The knock sensor is faulty.

6. There are losses of vacuum.

15. The engine continues to run after turning the key to position "O"

1. Idle speed is too high.

2. There is a malfunction in the electrical equipment or components of the engine control system.

3.The fuel Vapor Capture system (EVAP) purge valve is defective.

4. High engine operating temperature (coolant level dropped, thermostat faulty, radiator blocked or water pump faulty).

5. The injectors are not sealed properly.

6. The fuel shut-off valve on the diesel engine does not work.

16. Diesel engine smokes

1. Black smoke:

• a) The air cleaner is dirty. Replace the filter element;
• b) Incorrect fuel used. Flush tank and change fuel.

2. Blue smoke:

• a) Oil burning in the combustion chamber due to worn piston rings or high oil level in the air cleaner. Repair the engine, correct the oil level;
• b) No fuel is supplied to one of the injectors. Check by heating the outlet pipes of the manifold;
• c) Poor fuel atomization by the injector due to a faulty valve or nozzle. Grind the valve or replace the injector.

3. White or brown smoke:

• a) Low temperature in the cooling system. Check the thermostat;
• b) Poor operation of the injectors due to wear of the sprayer or the injector needle - "the injector is pouring". Replace the sprayer and the needle.

Engine electrical equipment

1. There is an internal defect in the battery.

18. The charging indicator lamp does not light when the key is turned to position "I"

1. The control lamp is out of order.

2. The generator is faulty.

3. There is a defect in the printed circuit board, wiring inside the instrument cluster unit, or lamp socket.

19. The charging indicator lamp does not go out when the engine is started

1. The drive belt tension is loose.

2. The voltage regulator and/or generator is damaged.

3. The generator brushes are worn out.

4. The wire between the generator and the voltage regulator is damaged.

5. The instrument cluster is faulty.

20. The charging indicator lamp does not go out when the key is turned to the "O" position

1. The diodes are broken.

Starter

1. The ground wire is broken or the quality of its terminal connection is poor.

2. Weakening of current strength due to poor quality or oxidation of contact connections.

3. There is no voltage at the traction relay terminal as a result of a broken electrical wiring or damage to the starter switch.

22. The starter rotates slowly and does not turn the crankshaft

1. The battery is low.

2. Summer oil is poured in.

3. The flow of current is difficult due to poor quality contacts.

4. Carbon brushes do not fit tightly against the collector, are stuck in the guides, are worn out, broken, oily or dirty.

5. Insufficient distance between the brushes and the commutator.

6. The collector is grooved or burnt and oily.

7. There is no voltage at the terminal (minimum 8 V).

8. The bearing is broken.

9. The traction relay is faulty.

23. The starter "grabs", but only provides jerky engine cranking

1. The gear drive is faulty.

2. The gear is dirty.

3. The toothed ring of the drive disk is damaged.

24. Starter pinion does not disengage from flywheel/drive disc ring gear

1. The gear drive components are dirty or damaged.

2. The traction relay is faulty.

3. The return spring is weak or broken.

25. The starter continues to operate after the ignition key is released

1. The traction relay is jammed - immediately turn off the ignition and replace the traction relay.

2. The ignition switch does not turn off, disconnect the battery, replace the switch.

Power supply system

3. The engine has mechanical damage. Check the compression, if necessary, carry out the appropriate restoration repair.

4. Idle speed and maximum crankshaft speed are excessively high.

5. There is a malfunction of the power supply system components, electrical equipment or electronic control.

6. Leaks in the air intake system.

7. There is damage to the exhaust system and a decrease in the toxicity of the exhaust gases.

Additional for diesel engine

8. Clogged return line. Blow air through the return line from the high-pressure fuel pump to the fuel tank.

9. The engine has mechanical damage. Check the compression, repair the engine if necessary.

27. There are fuel leaks and/or the smell of gasoline

1. There are leaks in the fuel supply lines or vent lines.

2. The fuel tank is full. Refuel only until the gun switches off automatically.

3. There are leaks/evaporation from the fuel system lines and exhaust gas toxicity reduction.

Lubrication system

30. Too low oil pressure at all speeds

1. The oil level has dropped.

2. The mesh filter of the oil intake in the oil pan is clogged.

3. The oil pump is worn out.

4. The crankshaft bearings are damaged.

31 Too low oil pressure at low speeds

1. The crankshaft bearings are worn out.

2. Low viscosity of engine oil, dilution of oil due to strong heating, natural dilution of oil during operation or ingress of coolant into it. Check the condition of the oil immediately!

3. Low engine oil level.

32. Too high oil pressure at engine speeds above 2000 rpm

1. The system is filled with high viscosity oil.

2. The pressure reducing valve is faulty/dirty.

Cooling system

35. External coolant leaks

1. The hoses are damaged or destroyed as a result of aging of the material, or their fastening on the fittings has become loose.

2. The water pump seals are damaged - coolant leaks through the inspection hole in the pump body.

3. There are leaks from the internal channels of the radiator or reservoir.

4. There are leaks through the engine drain plug or the release plugs of the water galleries.

36. Internal coolant leaks

Note: Internal coolant leaks are usually detected by checking the engine oil. Inspect the dipstick blade and the inside surfaces of the cylinder head(s) for traces of water and oil foaming.

1. There are leaks through the cylinder head gasket - check the cooling system under pressure.

2. There are cracks in the cylinder walls or in the head casting.

37. Coolant loss occurs

1. There is too much coolant in the system.

2. The coolant boils away as a result of engine overheating.

3. There are internal or external coolant leaks.

38. Coolant circulation is disrupted

1. The water pump is not functioning properly. The easiest way to check that the pump is functioning is to pinch the upper radiator hose while the engine is idling. If you feel a jolt of fluid inside the hose when you release it, the pump is functioning properly.

2. The cooling system is clogged - flush it and fill it with fresh fluid. If necessary, remove the radiator and perform a reverse-flow flush.

3. The water pump drive belt is worn or damaged, or its tension is not adjusted correctly.

4. Thermostat is stuck.