Jerking when engaging the clutch/
- Loose engine or gearbox mounts
- The driven disc linings are heavily worn or oily
- The splines of the gearbox drive shaft or the clutch driven disc hub are worn
- The drive shaft needle bearing in the flywheel is worn out (for engines up to 14089444).
Clutch "leads" (won't turn off), so it is impossible to change gears* /
- The gap between the release bearing and the pressure plate is incorrectly set. The splines are rusty (perhaps after the machine has been idle for a long time)
- The clutch basket is damaged or misaligned
- The clutch cable is stretched or damaged.
The clutch is slipping (an increase in engine speed is not accompanied by an increase in driving speed - especially noticeable on inclines) /
- Incorrect clearance between the release bearing and the diaphragm spring pins. The driven disc linings are heavily worn or oily.
Noise when pressing the clutch pedal/
- Release bearing needs lubrication, worn or damaged
- Clutch pedal incorrectly adjusted
- Clutch pedal release spring is weak or damaged
- Excessive play between the splines of the drive shaft of the box and the splines of the driven disk hub.
Noise when releasing the clutch pedal/
- The driven disk is deformed
- Broken or weakened coil springs "pillows" driven disk
- The clutch pedal is not adjusted correctly. The clutch pedal release spring is weak or damaged
The drive shaft of the gearbox is deformed or worn
- The release bearing has become loose on its cage hub.
* Clutch can "lead" and in the event that the driven disc is rusted to the pressure plate or flywheel. In order to release the disc, you need to turn on the handbrake, press the clutch pedal, engage the highest gear and then the starter. If the corrosion is very severe, the engine simply will not turn over, but in most cases you will be able to free the clutch disc. After the engine starts, increase the speed and engage and disengage the clutch several times in order to clean the disc of rust.
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