Troubleshooting (Opel Astra G)

Description of diagnostics of electronic control systems and diagnostic codes are given in Chapter Engine electrical equipment.

This section offers the simplest scheme for identifying the causes of malfunctions and failures occurring in vehicle units and systems. Failures and their possible causes are divided into groups according to their relationship to specific components or systems of the vehicle, such as the engine, cooling system, etc. In addition, the text provides references to Chapters and sections related to these problems.

Remember that successfully completing a troubleshooting is not some black magic reserved for experienced professional mechanics, but a combination of knowledge and a patient, systematic approach to investigating the problem. Always move from simple to complex, take each check to its logical conclusion, and try not to miss the obvious – anyone can forget to fill the fuel tank or leave the lights on overnight.

Finally, you should always try to get a clear picture of the progression of the fault and take appropriate steps to prevent a recurrence. If the electrical equipment failure occurred due to a poor contact quality, check the condition of all other contacts and electrical connectors in the system at the same time. If the same fuse continues to blow several times in a row, there is no point in replacing it further - you should try to find out the cause of the failure. Remember that the failure of a minor component may be a sign of a malfunction of a more important unit or the entire system.

Engine

If the engine does not start, the situation should be analyzed. For the engine to start at all, two basic conditions must be met. The air-fuel mixture must enter the cylinders, and a spark must be generated at the spark plug. Therefore, first, you should check whether fuel is supplied. How to proceed in this case is described in Chapter Power and exhaust systems.

To determine whether a spark is being produced, remove the spark plugs, insert them into the tips and apply them individually to ground. Do not hold the tip or ignition cable with your hands, but use well-insulated pliers. Ask an assistant to start the engine. If there is no spark, determine the cause of the failure using Chapter Engine electrical equipment.

Diagnostic procedures for the electronic control system and fault codes are provided in Chapter Engine electrical equipment.

The engine does not turn over when trying to start it

1. There is corrosion of the battery terminals or the fastening of the wire tips on them is loose. Check the condition of the terminals and tips. Tighten the terminal clamps, remove traces of corrosion if necessary.

2. The battery is discharged or defective. If the cable ends are found to be clean and securely connected to the battery terminals, turn the ignition switch to the ON position, then turn on the headlights and/or windshield wipers. If these electrical equipment do not function, the battery is discharged.

3. The transmission is not accurately set to the "P" position (AT) or to neutral gear (manual transmission), or the clutch is not fully depressed.



4. The wiring in the starting system circuit is broken or the wires are loose at the terminals. Check the condition of the wires, terminals and electrical connectors of the battery, starter solenoid and ignition switch.

5. The starter pinion is jammed in the flywheel ring gear. On models equipped with a manual transmission, set it to gear and, pushing the car by hand, turn the engine over. Remove the starter at the first opportunity and check the condition of the pinion and flywheel ring gear.

6. The starter traction relay is faulty (see Chapter Engine electrical equipment).

7. The starter is faulty (see Chapter Engine electrical equipment).

8. The ignition switch is faulty.

The engine turns over but does not start

Gasoline engine

1. The launch is not performed correctly.

Starting procedure for a gasoline engine

Set the parking brake, depress the clutch pedal. On automatic transmission models, press and hold the brake pedal. On automatic transmission, place the selector in the "P" or "N" position. Do not press the accelerator. Turn the ignition key and hold it until the engine starts. If the engine does not start within 20 seconds, or stalls immediately after starting, repeat the starting process with the accelerator pedal half-depressed. As soon as the engine starts, release the ignition key.

In frost below -15°C and at an altitude of more than 1000 m above sea level, start the engine for at least 10 seconds with the pedal half-pressed. Be sure to start moving immediately. In frosty weather, let the engine warm up for at least 30 seconds. If the engine does not start after 10 seconds, interrupt the start and try again after 30 seconds.

Several unsuccessful attempts to start the engine in a row can damage the catalytic converter, since unburned fuel burns explosively when heated in the working element of the converter.

Only on a hot engine: after starting, add a little gas.

2. The engine immobilizer is faulty or not disabled.

3. The fuse for the electric fuel pump/electronic injection system is faulty (see Chapter On-board electrical equipment).

4. The fuel tank is empty or poor quality fuel is added.

5. The air filter is heavily contaminated. There are vacuum leaks in the air supply elements, malfunctions in the fuel injection and ignition control systems.

6. The battery is discharged (the engine turns over too slowly). Check the functioning of the electrical equipment (see above).

7. The battery terminal connections are oxidized or have become loose (see above).

8. The fuel pump is faulty, its fuse has blown, or the pump relay is damaged. Check by ear that the pump is functioning properly when the ignition is turned on (see Chapter Power and exhaust systems).

9. Damaged or excessively damp ignition system components (see Chapter Engine electrical equipment).

10. Spark plugs are worn or faulty, or the spark plug gap is set incorrectly (see Chapter Engine electrical equipment).

11. The wiring of the electrical circuit of the starting system is broken or disconnected, or the fastening of the wires on the terminals is loose (see above).

12. The ignition coil circuit wiring is broken or disconnected, or the wires are loose at the coil terminals (see Chapter Engine electrical equipment).



13. The fuse of the engine control unit, pulse sensor, coolant temperature sensor or intake air temperature sensor is damaged (see Chapter On-board electrical equipment).

14. The compression pressure has dropped. Replace the cylinder head gasket, if necessary, perform engine overhaul.

Diesel engine

1. The launch is not performed correctly.

Starting procedure for a turbodiesel engine

With a cold engine and outside temperature below +8°C, apply the parking brake, depress the clutch pedal. On AT, set the selector to position "P" or "N". Turn the ignition key to position II and wait until the pre-glow indicator lamp goes out. Immediately after the indicator lamp goes out, start the engine without giving gas. If irregular flashes appear, do not turn off the starter until the engine runs smoothly (no more than 30 seconds). If the engine does not start, try starting again after half a minute as described above.

During the engine preheating process, do not turn on power consumers (light, heated rear window).

On a cold engine and at an outside temperature above +8°C, as well as on a warm engine, preheating is not required. The engine can be started immediately. Do not give gas.

2. The engine immobilizer is faulty

3. The fuse for the electric fuel pump or the pre-heating system is faulty (see Chapter On-board electrical equipment).

4. The preheating system is not functioning properly.

5. There is no voltage on the electromagnetic shut-off valve. Connect a voltmeter or a LED tester to the switch. Turn on the ignition - the LED should light up. Otherwise, check the wiring of the corresponding circuit for a break. If necessary, carry out the appropriate repair.



6. The electromagnetic shut-off valve is faulty. Check the reliability of the electromagnetic switch, check the contacts. Turn the ignition on and off - a click should be heard in the switch.

7. There is damage in the fuel supply line, or air is entering the fuel system:

• Fuel lines are mechanically damaged or clogged. Check the patency of the lines, clean the fuel lines, remove air locks from the tract, including the filter;
• The fuel filter is clogged. Replace the filter element;
• In winter, check the filter and fuel lines for signs of ice or paraffin formation. Park the car in a heated garage, add some gasoline to the fuel system;
• The fuel tank ventilation path or the fuel intake mesh filter is clogged. Check and clean the corresponding lines.

8. Fuel injection start adjustment is out of adjustment. Check and make appropriate adjustments.

9. The injectors are faulty. Check. Unscrew the union nuts one by one - when you unscrew the nut of the faulty cylinder, the engine speed will not drop.

10. The high-pressure fuel pump (HPFP) is faulty. Install a new or known good HPFP for testing.

11. The compression pressure has dropped. Replace the cylinder head gasket. Repair the engine if necessary.

The starter operates without turning the engine

1. The starter gear is jammed. Remove the starter (see Chapter Engine electrical equipment) and check its condition.

2. The starter gear teeth or flywheel ring gear are worn or damaged.

Difficulty starting a cold engine

Please also refer to the materials in paragraph. Difficulty starting/impaired stability of cold engine operation (see below).



1. The battery is discharged or not sufficiently charged (see Schedule of current maintenance).

2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power supply system or electrical equipment (see Chapters Power and exhaust systems and Engine electrical equipment).

3. Paraffin has accumulated in the fine filter of the diesel engine. Replace the filter element. Fill with winter fuel or dilute with gasoline (refer to the subsection "Operation of the diesel engine in winter conditions" of the Specifications to Chapter User manual).

4. The glow plugs of the diesel engine are faulty.

5. The compression pressure in the cylinders has dropped.

Difficulty starting a hot engine

1. The air filter is clogged (see Chapter Power and exhaust systems).

2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power supply system or electrical equipment (see Chapters Power and exhaust systems and Engine electrical equipment).

3. Fuel does not reach the injectors of the injection system (see Chapter Power and exhaust systems).

4. The valve timing of the diesel engine is incorrect.

5. The compression pressure has dropped (gasoline engine)/ fuel injection pump adjustment is broken (diesel engine).

Engaging the starter with the flywheel/drive disk is difficult or accompanied by extraneous sounds

1. The teeth of the starter gear or flywheel ring gear are worn or damaged.

2. The starter mounting bolts are missing or their tightening force has weakened.

3. There is internal damage to the starter. Replace the starter.

The engine stalls immediately after starting

1. The engine immobilizer is faulty.



2. The electrical wiring is faulty, or the wires on the terminals of the ignition coil or generator are loose.

3. There is a malfunction of the components of the power supply system or electrical equipment (see Chapters Power and exhaust systems and Engine electrical equipment).

4. The basic settings of the electronic control unit (ECM) are violated.

5. There is damage in the exhaust system/catalytic converter.

6. There are vacuum losses through the gasket surfaces of the intake manifold or throttle body. Make sure that the fastening bolts/nuts are securely tightened, check the fact and quality of fastening on their fittings on the intake manifold of all vacuum hoses. Check the condition of the hoses and their correct connection (specifically to your fittings).

7. Air has entered the fuel system (diesel engines).

The stability of the engine idle speed is disrupted

All engines

1. There is a loss of vacuum. Make sure that the mounting bolts/nuts are securely tightened, check the fact and quality of fastening on their nipples on the intake manifold of all vacuum hoses. Listen to the running engine with a stethoscope or a section of fuel hose - the presence of a hissing sound will allow you to identify the source of the "leak".

A solution of soapy water can be used for testing no less effectively.

2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power supply system or electrical equipment (see Chapters Power and exhaust systems and Engine electrical equipment).

3. The crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve is clogged (see Chapter Engine).

4. The air filter is clogged (see Chapter Power and exhaust systems).

5. The fuel pump does not supply sufficient fuel to the injectors of the injection system (see Chapter Power and exhaust systems).

6. There are leaks through the cylinder head gasket. Measure the compression pressure in the engine cylinders.

7. The working projections of the camshaft cams are worn out (see Chapter Engine).

8. The timing belt is not installed correctly, or its tension has weakened (see Chapters Routine maintenance and Engine).

Diesel engines

1. The quality of the fuel hose connections on the high-pressure fuel pump and fuel filter is damaged. Replace the fuel hoses, secure them with clamps, tighten the screws of the corner connections.

2. The fuel injection pump mount is mechanically damaged or loosened. Check and tighten the mount.

(Text copied from an internet website: «www.OPELBOOK.ru»)

3. The fuel supply and return lines are reversed. Make the appropriate corrections.

Sometimes the return line union screw is marked "OUT".

4. The fuel supply line is damaged:

• Fuel lines are mechanically damaged or clogged. Check the patency of the lines, clean the fuel lines, remove air locks from the tract, including the filter;
• The fuel filter is clogged. Replace the filter element;
• In winter, check the filter and fuel lines for signs of ice or paraffin formation. Park the car in a heated garage, add some gasoline to the fuel system;
• The fuel tank ventilation path or the fuel intake mesh filter is clogged. Check and clean the corresponding lines.

5. The fuel injection start adjustment is out of adjustment. Check and make the appropriate adjustment.

6. The injectors are faulty. Check. Loosen the union nuts one by one - when you unscrew the nut of the faulty cylinder, the engine speed will not drop.

7. The high-pressure fuel pump (HPFP) is faulty. Install a new or known good HPFP for testing.

The stability of the engine operation is disturbed during acceleration

1. The power supply system is not functioning properly.

2. The injectors/nozzles are clogged (see Chapter Power and exhaust systems).

3. The valve timing is incorrect (diesel engine) (See Chapter Power and exhaust systems).

There are misfires when the engine is idling

1. The spark plugs are worn or dirty, or the spark plug gap is set incorrectly (see Chapter Engine electrical equipment).

2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power supply system or electrical equipment (see Chapters Power and exhaust systems and Engine electrical equipment).

3. The spark plug wires are faulty (see Chapter Engine electrical equipment).

4. The fuel filter is clogged or the tank is filled with low-quality fuel.

5. There are vacuum losses in the intake pipe, or through the hose connections (see above The stability of the engine operation is disturbed during acceleration).

6. The compression pressure has dropped or its distribution between the cylinders has been disrupted. Measure the compression (see Chapter Engine).

7. There are malfunctions in the engine control system.

8. The hoses of the crankcase ventilation system (PCV) are damaged, or their fit on their receiving fittings is weakened.

There are misfires when the car is moving in gear

1. The fuel filter is clogged or the fuel system is contaminated (see Chapter Power and exhaust systems).

2. The spark plugs are faulty or dirty, or the spark plug gap is set incorrectly (see Chapter Engine electrical equipment).

3. There is a malfunction of the components of the power supply system or electrical equipment (see Chapters Power and exhaust systems and Engine electrical equipment).

4. There is a defect in the spark plug wires (see Chapter Engine electrical equipment).

5. Components of exhaust gas toxicity reduction systems are faulty.

6. The compression pressure has dropped or its distribution between the cylinders has been disrupted. Measure the compression (see Chapter Engine).

7. The ignition system is faulty (see Chapter Engine electrical equipment).

8. There are vacuum losses on the throttle body, intake pipe, or through vacuum hoses (see above The stability of the engine operation is disturbed during acceleration).

9. The fuel pump does not provide sufficient pressure (see Chapter Power and exhaust systems).

10. The fuel tank ventilation valve is clogged (see Chapter Power and exhaust systems).

11. The fuel lines are blocked (see Chapter Power and exhaust systems).

12. The power supply system is not functioning properly (see Chapter Power and exhaust systems).

The engine stalls spontaneously

1. Idle speed adjustment is incorrect.

2. The fuel filter is clogged or the fuel system is contaminated (see Chapter Power and exhaust systems).

3. Air has entered the fuel system (diesel engines).

4. The patency of the fuel tank ventilation system is impaired.

5. There is a failure of the power supply system components or information sensors (see Chapter Power and exhaust systems).

6. Components of exhaust gas toxicity reduction systems are faulty.

7. The spark plugs are faulty or dirty, or the spark plug gap is set incorrectly (see Chapter Routine maintenance). Also check the condition of the spark plug wires (see Chapter Engine electrical equipment).

8. There are vacuum losses on the throttle body, or through vacuum hoses (see above The stability of the engine operation is disturbed during acceleration).

The engine does not develop full power

All engines

1. There is a malfunction of the components of the power supply system or electrical equipment (see Chapters Power and exhaust systems and Engine electrical equipment).

2. The air cleaner is clogged. Clean or replace the air filter.

3. The spark plugs are faulty or the spark plug gap is set incorrectly (see Chapter Routine maintenance).

4. The ignition coil is faulty (see Chapter Engine electrical equipment).

5. The ATF level does not meet the requirements of the Specifications (see Chapters User manual and Automatic transmission).

6. The clutch slips (see Chapter Clutch and drive shafts).

7. The fuel filter is clogged or the fuel system is contaminated (see Chapter Power and exhaust systems).

8. The wrong type of fuel has been added. Fill the tank with fuel with the required octane rating.

9. The turbocharger control valve is damaged.

10. Low compression pressure in all or individual cylinders. Perform a compression test, the results of which can reveal valve leaks and/or a leaky cylinder head gasket (see Chapter Engine).

11. The timing belt is not installed correctly, or its tension has weakened (see Chapters Routine maintenance and Engine).

12. The brakes are "stuck".

13. The clutch slips (models with manual transmission) (See Chapter Clutch and drive shafts).

Diesel engines

1. The air cleaner is clogged. Clean or replace.

2. The uniformity of fuel distribution from the high-pressure fuel pump to the cylinders is disrupted. Check and make the appropriate adjustments on a warm engine.

3. The fuel injection pump start time is set incorrectly. Check and make the appropriate adjustments.

4. The fuel filter, high-pressure fuel pump, or any of the injectors is clogged. Wash the pre-filter, change the fine filter element, clean the sprayer, or replace the pump/injector.

5. The maximum crankshaft speed adjustment is not correct.

There are pops in the intake system or shots in the exhaust system

1. There is a malfunction of the components of the power supply system or electrical equipment (see Chapters Power and exhaust systems and Engine electrical equipment).

2. There is a defect in the secondary circuit of the ignition system (destruction of spark plug insulators or defects in spark plug wires) (See Chapter Engine electrical equipment).

3. The fuel supply to the injection injectors/nozzles is disrupted (see Chapter Power and exhaust systems).

4. The fuel injection system needs adjustment, or its components are excessively worn (see Chapter Power and exhaust systems).

5. There are vacuum losses on the throttle body, intake pipe, or through vacuum hoses (see above The stability of the engine idle speed is disrupted).

6. The valves are stuck (see Chapter Engine).

7. The order of connecting the spark plug wires is violated (see Chapter Engine electrical equipment).

8. The timing belt is not installed correctly, or its tension has weakened (see Chapters Routine maintenance and Engine).

9. When accelerating or driving uphill, detonation sounds occur

10. The fuel tank contains low-quality fuel.

11. There is a malfunction of the components of the power supply system or electrical equipment (see Chapters Power and exhaust systems and Engine electrical equipment).

12. The wrong type of spark plugs are installed. Check the spark plugs and coils for damage (see Chapter Engine electrical equipment).

13. The basic settings of the electronic control unit are violated.

14. The knock sensor is faulty.

15. Rarefaction losses occur (see above The stability of the engine idle speed is disrupted).

Pre-ignition takes place (the engine continues to run after the ignition is turned off)

1. The idle speed is too high (see Chapter Engine).

2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power supply system or electrical equipment (see Chapter Engine electrical equipment and below The engine continues to run after the ignition is turned off).

3.The purge valve of the coal adsorber of the fuel vapor capture system (EVAP) is damaged.

4. The engine operating temperature is excessively high. Possible causes of this malfunction may be a decrease in the coolant level (see Chapter Cooling and heating systems), thermostat failure, radiator blockage or water pump malfunction (see Chapter Cooling and heating systems).

5. There is excessive carbon formation in the engine combustion chambers (see Chapter Engine).

6. The engine operating temperature is excessively high.

7. The shut-off solenoid valve is faulty (diesel engine) (See Chapter Power and exhaust systems).

Diesel engine exhaust is excessively smoky

Black smoke:

1. The air cleaner is dirty. Blow out or replace the element;

2. The wrong fuel is in the tank. Flush the tank and change the fuel;

3. The starting point of the fuel injection pump is set incorrectly.

Blue smoke:

1. Oil is getting into the combustion chambers due to worn piston rings, high oil level in the air cleaner, worn seals in the turbocharger covers, leaks in the gasket between the crankcase and the turbocharger. Repair the engine, set the normal oil level, replace the seals, tighten the turbocharger mounting bolts or replace the gasket;

2. Fuel supply to one of the injectors is disrupted. Check by heating the exhaust manifold pipes;

3. The quality of fuel atomization by the injector is impaired due to a faulty valve or a broken atomizer. Grind the valve or replace the injector.

White or brown smoke:

1. The coolant does not warm up to normal operating temperature. Check the thermostat for proper operation;

2. The injectors are not functioning properly due to wear or damage to the sprayer. Replace the sprayer.

Noises, odors and vibrations that occur during engine operation

During acceleration or when the engine load increases, knocking noises occur, caused by too early ignition or detonation

1. Low-octane gasoline was used to refuel the car. Fill the fuel tank with quality fuel.

2. The ignition timing is incorrect. Check the condition of the relevant information sensors and other components of the ignition/engine management system. Replace defective components.

3. The knock sensor is faulty or too loose. Failure to tighten the sensor properly may result in ignition delay and, as a result, a decrease in engine power. Assess the condition of the sensor, check its tightening force, and replace it if necessary.

4. Non-standard spark plugs are installed. Replace the spark plugs, ensure that the interelectrode gaps are set correctly.

When operating the vehicle at high speeds, it is better to install "colder" spark plugs.

5. There is excessive carbon formation in the combustion chambers. Use special fuel additives or disassemble and decarbonize the cylinder head.

6. The fuel/engine control system is not functioning properly. Check the condition of the relevant information sensors and control modules. Replace defective components.

7. The patency of the exhaust system tract is impaired. Inspect the system components for deformations and other mechanical defects. Compare the temperature at the input and output of the catalytic converter and muffler - if the temperature of the incoming flow is much higher than the temperature of the output, then the patency of the corresponding component is impaired.

A high frequency squealing or whistling noise occurs when the engine is running

1. The accessory drive belts are worn out or their tension has weakened. Check, make the necessary adjustments, replace worn belts.

2. The auxiliary belt tensioner bearings are worn or seized. Check the tensioners and replace the components if necessary.

3. The water pump is faulty. The pump may not leak, which does not exclude the possibility of bearing wear or loose/seized rotors. Replace the pump.

When the engine is running, a metallic grinding noise occurs

1. The water pump is faulty or its mounting bolts are loose. Check the tightening force of the fasteners, replace the faulty pump.

2. The auxiliary belt tensioner bearings are worn or seized. Check the tensioners and replace the components if necessary.

During engine operation, various types of knocking noises occur

1. The hydraulic valve clearance correctors in the tappets are not functioning properly (on models with the corresponding configuration). Check the level and condition of the engine oil. If necessary, replace the oil and oil filter. Check whether the tappets have collapsed. Replace defective components. In addition, the proper functioning of the hydraulic tappets depends on the engine oil pressure - check the patency of the oil filter, the condition of the oil pump and its pressure reducing valve.

2. On models with manual valve clearance adjustment, check the installation of the latter and assess the degree of wear of the timing components. If necessary, make the appropriate adjustments and replace the failed parts.

3. Timing belt/chain is worn or incorrectly adjusted. Check, make necessary adjustments, replace defective drive components.

4. The intake or exhaust valve stems are deformed or otherwise damaged. Remove the cylinder head, check the condition of the valve assembly components, replace defective parts.

When the engine is running, a loud dull knocking noise occurs

1. The crankshaft pulley or flywheel has become loose. Check, replace the mounting bolts and tighten them to the required torque.

2. As a result of hydraulic blocking, the connecting rod has become deformed. The necessary restorative repair of the power unit should be carried out.

3. Excessively worn or damaged connecting rod bearings - this type of situation most often occurs as a result of reduced oil pressure. Perform appropriate engine repair.

When the engine is running, a distinct smell of gasoline is present in the passenger compartment and near the vehicle

1. Check the fuel level - overfilling the tank can lead to minor fuel leaks through the filler neck. The smell should disappear within the first 20-25 km of driving as a result of purging the carbon adsorber.

2. The fuel tank filler cap is not tight enough. Check, tighten the cap, and replace it if necessary.

3. The clamps securing the fuel supply or return line hoses of the fuel system path have become loose. Check the reliability of the clamps, and replace them if necessary. It is also possible that the sealing glands of the active components of the fuel system are out of order. Check and replace any defective seals.

4. Assess fuel economy. If the increase in consumption is due to the failure of any components or to a malfunction of the air-fuel mixture ignition, the catalytic converter may become contaminated. Usually, the driver is warned of such situations by the activation of the "Check Engine" indicator lamp. Check the condition of the spark plugs or conduct an exhaust gas analysis. Replace faulty spark plugs and failed fuel system components.

When the engine is running, there is a smell of hydrogen sulfide near the car (rotten eggs)

1. As a result of feeding the lean mixture into the combustion chambers, the catalytic converter overheats, in which an irreversible chemical reaction occurs with the release of hydrogen sulfide. Check the condition of the sealing gasket and vacuum lines of the intake tract, make the necessary corrections.

2. As a result of malfunction of the generator or voltage regulator, the battery is constantly overcharged, accompanied by boiling of the electrolyte. Carefully inspect the battery case for cracks, swelling and other damage. If necessary, remove the battery and thoroughly wash the surface of the support tray with baking soda before installing a new one. Check the generator/voltage regulator for proper operation, perform the necessary repairs or replace the failed components.

When the engine is running, a sweetish smell is emitted near the car

1. There are external coolant leaks. Check the condition of the radiator cap, seals and gaskets of the cooling system components, assess the reliability of tightening the hose clamps. Tighten the fasteners, replace the failed components.

2. There are coolant leaks through the radiator, expansion tank or heater heat exchanger. Carefully inspect the radiator and expansion tank, check for any leaks on the carpets under the dashboard.

3. As a result of internal leaks, coolant enters the combustion chambers, which is usually accompanied by the release of thick white smoke/steam in the exhaust. This kind of situation can occur as a result of the destruction of the cylinder head gasket, as well as the appearance of cracks in the body of the block/cylinder head. Additional symptoms of internal coolant leaks are the formation of a whitish coating on the inner surface of the engine oil filler cap, as well as deformation or swelling of the radiator hoses.

When the engine is idling, strong vibrations occur

1. The fastening of the power unit suspension supports has become loose, or their rubber cushions are worn out. Check the condition of the supports, tighten the fasteners, replace the failed components.

2. The crankcase protection elements are deformed or their fastening has become loose. Check, tighten the fastening, restore the original shape of the protective plates.

The intensity of vibrations increases during acceleration

1. Rubber hangers of exhaust system support elements are damaged or lost. Check and replace defective components.

2. The exhaust system sections are not correctly laid out. Assess the adequacy of the laying, ensure that the exhaust system components do not come into contact with the body parts and suspension elements.

Engine electrical equipment

Diagnostic procedures for the electronic control system and fault codes are provided in Chapter Engine electrical equipment.

The battery does not hold a charge

1. The alternator drive belt is worn or damaged, or its tension adjustment is incorrect (see Chapter Engine electrical equipment).

2. The electrolyte level is insufficient or the battery is very discharged (see Chapter Engine electrical equipment).

3. There is corrosion of the battery terminals, or the fastening of the wire tips on them has become loose (see Chapter Engine electrical equipment).

4. The generator does not provide the required charging current (see Chapter Engine electrical equipment).

5. The charging circuit wiring is broken or otherwise damaged, or the wires are loose on the terminals (see Chapter Engine electrical equipment).

6. There is a short circuit in the electrical wiring, creating a constant leakage of current generated by the battery to ground (see Chapter Engine electrical equipment and Schematic diagrams of electrical connections).

7. There is an internal defect in the battery.

The charging indicator light does not go out when the revs increase

1. The drive belt is loose. Check the V-belt tensioner.

2. The engine oil level has dropped, or the wrong type of oil has been added (see Chapter Routine maintenance).

3. The oil pressure sensor is faulty (see Chapter Engine electrical equipment).

4. Engine/oil pump bearings are excessively worn (see Chapter Engine).

5. The engine operating temperature is excessively high.

6. The oil pump pressure relief valve is faulty (see Chapter Engine).

7. The oil intake mesh filter is clogged. Remove the oil pan and clean the filter (see Chapter Engine).

8. The overrunning clutch is damaged (turbodiesel only). Remove the generator and turn its drive shaft to the left. If the working surface of the pulley does not rotate, then the source of failure is usually the overrunning clutch.

9. The voltage regulator/generator is damaged. Disconnect the wire (B+) from the back of the generator and turn on the ignition - if the test lamp does not work now, the fault is usually in the voltage regulator or in the generator.

10. The brushes are worn out. Visually inspect the brushes and replace them if necessary.

11. The regulator is damaged. Check and replace if necessary.

12. The generator is damaged. Check and replace if necessary.

13. The wiring in the circuit section between the generator and the voltage regulator is damaged.

14. The instrument cluster is damaged.

The charging indicator lamp does not light when the ignition key is turned to the "ON" position (when the ignition is turned on)

1. The control lamp on the instrument panel has burned out or otherwise failed (see Chapter On-board electrical equipment).

2. The generator is faulty (see Chapter Engine electrical equipment).

3. There is a defect in the printed circuit board, the wiring inside the instrument panel or the lamp socket (see Chapter On-board electrical equipment).

The charge indicator lamp remains lit after the ignition is turned off

1. Diodes are broken. Check, replace the diode assembly if necessary.

Starter

1. If the starter does not turn, first check for the presence of the required voltage (minimum 10 V) on terminal 50 of the traction relay (see Chapter Engine electrical equipment). If the test result is lower than the specified value, proceed to check the condition of the starter circuit wiring (see electrical connection diagrams).

2. Checking the correct operation of the starter at full battery voltage can be done as follows:

• Without shifting into gear, turn on the ignition;
• Short-circuit terminals 30 and 50 of the starter with a wire of at least 4 mm² cross-section.

3. If the starter works perfectly, the cause of the malfunction should be sought in the condition of the electrical wiring of its circuit. If the starter does not work, it should be checked in the removed state.

An essential condition for checking is the reliability of the fastening of the contact terminals and the absence of traces of oxidation on them.

The starter does not rotate when the ignition key is turned to position III

1. The battery is discharged. Charge the battery.

2. Jumper terminals 30 and 50 of the starter: The starter rotates. Wire 50 to the ignition switch is broken, the starter switch is faulty. Fix the break, replace the defective parts.

3. The ground bus is broken or the quality of its fastening is damaged. Check the condition of the battery wires, measure the battery voltage, recharge if necessary.

4. The contact connections are oxidized, or the quality of the fastening on the terminals is damaged. Clean the battery terminals, check the quality of the connection of the electrical wiring laid between the battery, starter and ground.

5. No voltage at terminal 50 of the traction relay. Wire break, starter switch faulty.

The starter rotates slowly and does not turn the crankshaft

1. The battery is discharged. Charge the battery.

2. Summer oil is poured in (in the cold season). Fill with all-season oil. Contact connections are oxidized, or the quality of the fastening on the terminals is impaired. Clean the battery terminals, check the quality of the connection of the electrical wiring laid between the battery, starter and ground.

3. Carbon brushes do not fit tightly enough to the collector, are stuck in the guides, are worn out, broken, oily or dirty. Check the condition of the brushes and their guides, make the appropriate corrections.

4. Insufficient distance between brushes and commutator. Replace brushes and clean brush guides.

5. The surface of the collector is burnt, oily, or grooves have formed on it. Treat the collector, replace the anchor if necessary.

6. There is no voltage at the corresponding terminal of the traction relay (minimum 10 V). Check the condition of the starter switch and traction relay.

7. The bearing is broken. Check the condition of the bearing, replace it if necessary.

8. The traction relay is faulty. Check and replace if necessary.

The starter does not ensure uniform engine cranking

1. The gear drive is faulty. Check and replace if necessary.

2. The gear is dirty. Clean the gear.

3. The flywheel ring gear is damaged. Treat the ring gear, replace the flywheel if necessary.

The starter gear does not disengage from the flywheel ring gear

1. The gear drive is damaged or the thread is dirty. Clean the drive and replace it if necessary.

2. The traction relay is faulty. Replace the traction relay.

3. The return spring is weak or broken. Replace the spring.

The starter continues to operate after the ignition key is released

1. The traction relay has failed to turn off due to jamming. Immediately turn off the ignition and replace the relay.

2. The ignition switch does not turn off. Disconnect the battery, replace the lock assembly.

Power supply system

Excessive fuel consumption

All engines

1. The air cleaner is clogged. Check and replace the filter element if necessary (see Chapter Power and exhaust systems).

2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power supply system, electrical equipment or electronic control system (see Chapters Power and exhaust systems and Engine electrical equipment).

3. There are leaks in the air intake tract.

4. The exhaust system/catalytic converter is damaged.

5. The tire inflation pressure is insufficient, or the tires are of the wrong size.

Diesel engine

1. The fuel return line is blocked. Blow air through the line from the high-pressure fuel pump to the fuel tank.

2. The maximum RPM and idle speed are excessively high. Check and make appropriate adjustments if necessary.

3. The engine has mechanical damage. Check the compression pressure, if necessary, carry out the appropriate restoration repair of the engine (see Chapter Engine).

The smell of fuel appears in the cabin

1. The fuel tank is damaged (see Chapter Power and exhaust systems).

2. The fuel tank is full. Stop refueling immediately when the gun automatically switches off.

3. There are fuel or fuel vapor leaks from the fuel and exhaust gas toxicity reduction systems (see Chapter Power and exhaust systems).

The engine does not start

1. Electric fuel pump does not work when the starter is turned on (no characteristic sound is heard). To eliminate possible jamming, lightly tap the pump body. Check the correctness of the power supply to the pump. Check the condition of the corresponding fuse. Check the condition of the terminal connections in the pump circuit.

2. The fuel pump relay is faulty. Check the relay.

3. The emergency fuel supply switch under the driver's seat has been activated (with the appropriate vehicle configuration). Press the switch button.

4. The injector valves are stuck. Check the injectors and replace them if necessary. Check the correctness of the power supply to the injectors by disconnecting their wiring connectors. Connect the diode test lamp to the wire and turn on the starter - the test lamp should start blinking.

5. No signal from camshaft position or coolant temperature sensor. Check the condition of the corresponding electrical wiring. Read the fault codes.

6. Fuel lines are damaged, clogged or leaky, there are defects in the hoses.

7. The fuel filter is clogged.

8. As a result of a leak, additional air is sucked into the exhaust system.

9. The vacuum hoses are damaged or there is a leak in their connection.

10. The fuel pressure regulator is damaged. Check the residual pressure.

11. The throttle position sensor is damaged.

12. The power supply to the electronic engine control unit is interrupted.

13. Ice or paraffin has formed in the fuel filter or fuel lines of the diesel engine.

14. The fuel tank ventilation tract is blocked/the filter is clogged.

15. The preheating system is not functioning properly.

16. The fuel shut-off valve in the diesel engine is damaged.

17. The moment of start of fuel supply is disrupted (diesel).

18. The diesel engine injectors are damaged. Loosen the union nuts one by one - when you loosen the nut of the faulty cylinder, the engine speed will not drop.

19. The fuel injection pump is faulty.

Difficulty starting/impaired stability of cold engine operation

1. Carbon monoxide (CO) levels are not within specifications. Check CO levels and idle speed setting.

2. The coolant temperature sensor or intake air temperature sensor is faulty. Check the sensors.

3. The fuel pressure does not meet the required value. Check the fuel pressure.

4. As a result of a leak, additional air is sucked into the exhaust system.

Difficulty starting/impaired stability of warm engine operation

1. The air intake tract is leaky. To check, leave the engine running at idle speed and wet the joints of the intake tract with gasoline. If the speed increases briefly, eliminate the causes of the leak.

Try not to inhale toxic gasoline fumes!

2. The fuel pump check valve is damaged.

3. There are leaks in the power supply system.

4. Increased fuel pressure in the fuel system.

5. The fuel evaporative emission (EVAP) system is not functioning properly.

6. The patency of the fuel return line is impaired as a result of its internal blockage or mechanical deformation of the tube.

7. The injector valves are stuck. Check the injectors and replace them if necessary. Check the correctness of the power supply to the injectors by disconnecting their wiring connectors. Connect the diode test lamp to the wire and turn on the starter — the test lamp should start blinking.

8. No signal from the camshaft position sensor or coolant temperature sensor. Check the condition of the corresponding electrical wiring. Read the fault codes.

9. As a result of a leak, additional air is sucked into the exhaust system.

10. The vacuum hoses are damaged or there is a leak in their connection.

11. The fuel pressure regulator is damaged. Check the residual pressure.

12. The throttle position sensor is damaged.

13. The power supply to the electronic engine control unit is interrupted.

The engine runs intermittently

1. There are intermittent problems with the quality of the fuel pump contact connections. Check the condition of the contact terminals and connectors of the fuel pump wiring, air flow meter and fuel pump relay. Check the condition of the corresponding fuse and the contact terminals of the relay. Clean the contact surfaces, replace the faulty components if necessary.

2. The vehicle was refueled with low-quality fuel, or vapor locks were formed in the fuel lines. Fill the tank with the required type of fuel.

3. The fuel flow supplied to the engine is insufficient. Check the pump performance.

4. The fuel filter is faulty. Check and replace if necessary.

5. The fuel pump is faulty. Check and replace if necessary.

6. Injectors are faulty. Check and replace if necessary.

7. The oxygen sensor is faulty, there are problems in the mixture quality control circuit, or the sensor heating is faulty.

8. The throttle position sensor (TPS) is faulty. Check the TPS and replace it if necessary.

9. The exhaust manifold or downpipe of the exhaust system is damaged (there are exhaust gas leaks).

10. No signal from the camshaft position sensor or coolant temperature sensor. Check the condition of the corresponding electrical wiring. Read the fault codes.

11. As a result of a leak, additional air is sucked into the exhaust system.

12. The vacuum hoses are damaged or there is a leak in their connection.

13. The fuel pressure regulator is damaged. Check the residual pressure.

14. The throttle position sensor is damaged.

15. The power supply to the electronic engine control unit is interrupted.

16. The fuel evaporative emission (EVAP) system is not functioning properly.

17. The fuel hoses to the high-pressure fuel pump and fuel filter of the diesel engine have become loose.

18. When connecting, the fuel supply and return lines of the high-pressure fuel pump were reversed (diesel engine).

The engine runs intermittently in transient and idle modes

1. The air intake tract is leaky. To check, leave the engine running at idle speed and wet the joints of the intake tract with gasoline. If the speed increases briefly, eliminate the causes of the leak.

Try not to inhale toxic gasoline fumes!

2. The idle speed setting is incorrect. Check the regulator, throttle position sensor (TPS) and lambda adjustment.

3. The throttle position sensor is faulty or incorrectly adjusted. Check the sensor.

Difficulty starting a hot engine

1. Carbon monoxide (CO) levels are not within specifications. Check CO levels and idle speed setting.

2. Too high pressure in the fuel system. Check the fuel pressure, replace the pressure regulator if necessary.

3. The return line between the pressure regulator and the fuel tank is clogged or bent. Clean or replace the line.

4. The engine temperature sensor is faulty. Check the temperature sensor.

5. The fuel system is leaking. Visually inspect all connections in the engine and electric fuel pump area. Tighten all connections.

6. The air intake system is leaking. Check all connections of the intake system.

The engine continues to run after the ignition is turned off

1. Injectors are leaky. Check injectors.

2. The fuel shut-off valve is faulty (diesel engine).

Exhaust system

The engine operates with increased background noise

1. The exhaust system tract is not sealed.

2. Elements of the exhaust system come into contact with body and/or suspension components (see Chapters Power and exhaust systems and Body).

Lubrication system

When the ignition is turned on, the corresponding indicator lamp does not work

1. The oil pressure sensor is faulty. Turn on the ignition, disconnect the wire from the oil pressure sensor and short it to ground. If the lamp lights up, replace the sensor.

2. The supply voltage to the sensor is interrupted due to oxidation of the contact connections. Check the condition of the electrical wiring terminals.

3. The indicator lamp is faulty. Replace the indicator lamp.

4. The control device is faulty. Replace the control device.

The indicator lamp does not go out after a short time after the engine has been started

1. The oil is overheating - if the lamp goes out when you press the gas pedal, no action is required.

The indicator light does not go out after gas is applied or lights up while driving

1. The oil pressure is not high enough. Check the oil level and make the appropriate adjustments if necessary (see Chapter Routine maintenance). Check the oil pressure.

2. There is a short circuit to ground in the wire connected to the pressure sensor. Disconnect the wiring from the sensor and move it to the side (without shorting to ground), turn on the ignition - if the lamp lights up, check the wire.

3. The oil pressure sensor is faulty. Check and replace if necessary.

Oil pressure remains low at all speeds

1. The oil level has dropped excessively. Check and make the appropriate adjustments if necessary (see Chapter Routine maintenance).

2. The oil intake mesh filter is clogged. Remove the oil pan and clean the filter.

3. The oil pump is worn out. Remove and check the oil pump, replace it if necessary.

4. The shaft bearings are damaged. Remove the engine, perform the necessary repairs (see Chapter Engine).

Oil pressure not high enough at low revs

1. The pressure reducing valve is stuck open due to contamination. Remove and check the valve.

Oil pressure rises excessively at rpms above 2000

1. The pressure reducing valve does not open due to contamination. Remove and check the valve.

Cooling system

Overheat

1. The engine coolant level has dropped (see Chapter Cooling and heating systems).

2. The water pump drive belt is worn or damaged, or its tension adjustment is incorrect (see Chapters Routine maintenance and Engine).

3. The internal channels of the radiator are blocked, or the patency of the radiator grille is impaired (see Chapter Cooling and heating systems).

4. The thermostat is faulty (see Chapter Cooling and heating systems).

5. The cooling system fan impeller blades are cracked or otherwise damaged (see Chapter Cooling and heating systems).

6. The fan switch sensor is faulty.

7. The coolant temperature gauge is faulty.

8. The coolant pump is faulty. Remove and check the pump.

9. The radiator cap does not hold pressure. Test the cap under pressure.

Hypothermia

1. The thermostat is faulty (see Chapter Cooling and heating systems).

2. Temperature meter readings are inaccurate.

External coolant leaks

1. The hoses are damaged or destroyed as a result of aging of the material, or their fastening on the fittings has become loose. Replace the hoses/tighten the clamps of their fastening (see Chapter Cooling and heating systems).

2. The water pump seals are damaged - coolant will leak through the inspection hole in the pump body (see Chapter Cooling and heating systems).

3. There are leaks from the internal channels of the radiator or its side tank. Professional repair of the radiator is required (description of the removal procedure is given in Chapter Cooling and heating systems).

4. There are leaks through the engine drain plug (see Chapter Engine) or squeeze plugs of water galleries (see Chapter Cooling and heating systems).

Internal coolant leaks

Internal coolant leaks are usually detected by checking the engine oil. Inspect the dipstick blade and the inside surfaces of the cylinder head(s) for signs of fluid leakage and signs of foaming in the oil.

1. There are leaks through the cylinder head gasket. Perform a pressure test of the cooling system.

2. There are cracks in the cylinder walls or in the head casting. To check, disassemble the engine (see Chapter Engine).

Coolant losses occur

1. Too much coolant has been added to the system (see Chapter Cooling and heating systems).

2. The coolant boils away as a result of engine overheating.

3. There are internal or external coolant leaks (see above).

4. The radiator cap is faulty. Check the cap with pressure.

Coolant circulation is disrupted

1. The water pump is not functioning properly. To check, pinch the upper radiator hose with the engine idling. If you feel a jolt of liquid inside the hose when you release it, the pump is functioning properly (see Chapter Cooling and heating systems).

2. The cooling system is clogged. Drain the coolant, flush the system and fill it with a fresh mixture (see Chapter Cooling and heating systems). If necessary, remove the radiator (see Chapter Cooling and heating systems) and perform a reverse flow flush.

3. The water pump drive belt is worn or damaged, or its tension adjustment is incorrect (see Chapters Routine maintenance and Engine).

4. The thermostat is jammed (see Chapter Cooling and heating systems).

Interior heating system

The heater fan does not rotate

1. The fuse for the fan drive electric motor is faulty. Check the condition of the corresponding fuse (see Chapter On-board electrical equipment), replace if necessary.

2. The fan switch is faulty.

3. The drive electric motor is faulty. Check the correctness of the supply voltage to the motor with the ignition on and the control switch closed. If the voltage is supplied correctly, replace the electric motor.

The heater fan is not functioning properly in any of the speed modes

1. The resistive assembly is faulty. Check and replace if necessary.

The heater cannot be turned off using the switch

1. The switch is faulty. Check and replace if necessary.

2. The drive cables of the mixing flap are damaged or their mobility is impaired. Replace the cables.

The heater does not provide the required intensity of heating of the air supplied to the passenger compartment

1. The coolant level has dropped too low. Check and make adjustments if necessary (see Chapter Routine maintenance).

2. The heater control assembly is faulty. Check and, if necessary, replace the faulty drive cable.

The operation of the heater fan is accompanied by increased background noise

1. Debris has entered the fan impeller or air duct sleeves. Check, remove the fan and remove debris if necessary.

2. Impeller is out of balance/bearing is damaged. Remove the drive motor, check the freedom of rotation of the relevant components.

Clutch

The clutch does not disengage (freedom of switching the manual transmission control lever to the reverse gear position and back is impaired when the clutch pedal is pressed to the floor)

1. The clutch disc is bent or otherwise damaged (see Chapter Clutch and drive shafts).

The clutch is slipping (engine speed increases without increasing vehicle speed)

1. The clutch disc is contaminated with oil or its friction linings are worn out. Remove the clutch (see Chapter Clutch and drive shafts) and check the condition of its components. If necessary, replace the assembly.

2. The clutch disc has not been properly run in. It may take 30 to 40 normal car starts to completely run in a new disc.

3. The pressure plate/clutch basket is worn out (see Chapter Clutch and drive shafts).

There is a strong vibration when the clutch is engaged

1. The clutch disc is oily. Remove the clutch (see Chapter Clutch and drive shafts) and check the condition of its components. Eliminate the cause of oil leaks.

2. The splines of the driven disk hub are worn out (clutch disc). Remove the clutch (see Chapter Clutch and drive shafts) and check the condition of its components.

3. The pressure plate/clutch basket or flywheel is bent. Remove the clutch (see Chapter Clutch and drive shafts) and check the condition of its components. Check the condition of the flywheel.

Jerks when using the clutch jerks are felt

1. The powertrain suspension supports are damaged. Check and replace if necessary.

2. The gearbox mount is loose. Tighten the mounting bolts.

3. The uniformity of the pressure plate fit is disturbed. Replace the clutch basket.

4. The gearbox is not aligned with the crankshaft. Check the alignment.

With the clutch fully engaged (pedal released) a squealing or rumbling noise occurs

1. The clutch release bearing is jammed. Remove the clutch (see Chapter Clutch and drive shafts) and check the bearing condition. Remove all burrs and burrs, lubricate the bearing before installing it in place.

A squealing or rattling noise occurs when the clutch is fully disengaged (the pedal is pressed)

1. The release bearing is worn or damaged (see Chapter Clutch and drive shafts).

2. The springs are worn or damaged (or aperture blades) pressure plate in the clutch basket (see Chapter Clutch and drive shafts).

The clutch pedal remains pressed to the floor after release

1. The piston of the master or slave clutch cylinder is jammed. There is damage to the hydraulic drive components or release bearing. Check the condition of the components, if necessary, make the appropriate replacements.

Manual transmission (MT)

When the gearbox is in neutral, extraneous noises occur while the engine is running

1. The input shaft bearing is worn out.

2. The bearing of the driven shaft drive gear is damaged.

3. The intermediate shaft bearings are worn out.

4. The intermediate shaft axial play adjustment washers are worn or damaged.

Extraneous noises occur in any position of the manual transmission

1. Any of the above reasons and/or:

2. There is not enough transmission oil in the manual transmission (his level dropped).

Extraneous noises occur in a particular gear

1. The gear teeth of this transmission are worn, damaged or chipped.

2. The synchronizer of this gear is worn out or damaged.

The gearbox "jumps" out of the highest gear

1. Dirt has gotten between the gearbox and the engine, or the gearbox has shifted relative to the engine.

Complications when shifting gears

1. The clutch is not fully depressed (disengaged).

2. The shift rod is damaged, loosened or out of adjustment. Carefully check the condition of the components and replace any defective ones if necessary.

There are transmission oil leaks

1. There is too much transmission oil in the gearbox. Drain the excess if necessary.

2. The differential seals need to be replaced.

Automatic transmission (AT)

The electronic transmission control system diagnostic procedures and trouble codes are provided in Chapter Engine electrical equipment.

Due to the complexity of the AT design, it is advisable to carry out diagnostics of its faults and repair of components in a car service workshop or representative office of the Opel company.

Common problems associated with the operation of the switching mechanism

1. The following can be attributed to failures associated with a malfunction of the shift rod adjustment:

• The engine can be started in transmission positions other than "P" (Park) and "N" (Neutral);
• The transmission position indicator reading differs from the actual gear selected;
• The vehicle is moving with the transmission in position "P" or "N";
• Gears shift with difficulty or randomly.

Adjust the gear shift rod (see Chapter Manual gearbox).

The transmission slips, shifts with difficulty, makes extraneous noises, or does not allow the vehicle to move when shifted into one of the forward or reverse gears

There are many possible causes for the problems listed in the title, but only one of them falls within the competence of the amateur mechanic - incorrect transmission fluid level.

Before taking your car to a car service workshop, check the level and condition of the transmission fluid (see Chapter Routine maintenance). Adjust the level according to the requirements of the Specifications or change the fluid together with the filter. If the situation does not improve, contact specialists for help.

There are transmission fluid leaks

AT fluid is dark red in color. Its leaks should not be confused with engine oil, which can be carried to the transmission housing by the oncoming air flow.

To locate and isolate the source of the leak, first remove all traces of dirt and grease from the transmission housing. Use a suitable degreaser and/or steam clean. Then take the vehicle for a short drive at low speed (so that traces of a leak are not carried away by the oncoming flow far from its source). Stop, jack up the car and visually inspect to determine the source of the leak. Most often, these are:

• Transmission Oil Pan: Tighten mounting bolts and/or replace oil pan gasket;
• Fluid fill tube: Replace the rubber seal where the tube enters the transmission case;
• Transmission Fluid Lines: Tighten fittings or replace lines;
• Vent Tube: Transmission is overfilled and/or has water in it.

The oil is brown in color or smells burnt

1. Low fluid level in the box (see Chapter Routine maintenance)

Kickdown mode does not turn on (when the gas pedal is fully depressed, the lower gear does not engage)

1. Low fluid level in the box (see Chapter Routine maintenance)

2. Malfunction in the engine management system (see Electronic ignition control system (and injection) gasoline engines and Diesel engine fuel preheating and heating systems Chapters Engine electrical equipment)

3. Sensor or its wiring is faulty (see Chapter Automatic transmission)

4. The selector cable adjustment is incorrect (see Chapter Automatic transmission)

The engine does not start in any position of the selector or starts in any position except P and R

1. The adjustment of the start permission switch sensor is disturbed (see Chapter Automatic transmission)

2. Malfunction in the engine management system (see Electronic ignition control system (and injection) gasoline engines and Diesel engine fuel preheating and heating systems Chapters Engine electrical equipment)

3. The selector cable adjustment is incorrect (see Chapter Automatic transmission)

The clutch slips, there are jerks or noises when changing gears; the vehicle does not move when D or R mode is engaged

1. Low fluid level in the box (see Chapter Routine maintenance)

2. Malfunction of the selector position sensor or its wiring (see Chapter Automatic transmission)

3. Malfunction in the engine management system (see Electronic ignition control system (and injection) gasoline engines and Diesel engine fuel preheating and heating systems Chapters Engine electrical equipment)

Bridges

Extraneous noises

1. Normal road noise. Cannot be corrected.

2. Tire noise. Check the condition of the treads and the inflation pressure of the tires.

3. Wheel bearings are worn or damaged, or their tightening force has weakened.

Vibrations

1. Check the condition of the wheel bearings by jacking up the appropriate corners of the car and rotating the wheel manually. Listen to the sounds coming from the bearing. Remove the bearings and check their condition.

Oil leaks

1. The drive shaft seals are damaged (see Chapter Clutch and drive shafts).

Brake system

Before you come to a final conclusion about the presence of problems with the braking system, make sure that the tires are in satisfactory condition and inflated to the required pressure, the front wheel alignment is not out of alignment and the vehicle is not unevenly loaded.

Increased foot brake pedal travel

1. The brake circuit is out of order. Check if brake fluid is leaking.

The foot brake pedal is too soft and falls through

1. Air has entered the brake circuit. Bleed the system.

2. The fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir has dropped. Add fresh brake fluid, bleed the system.

3. Vapor locks form in the brake lines. This occurs mainly during frequent, intensive braking. Replace the brake fluid, remove air from the system.

Braking is ineffective, the foot brake pedal fails

1. The brake tract is leaky. Check the tightness of the corresponding nipple connections, replace the defective components.

2. The seals in the master or wheel cylinders are damaged. Check and replace defective components. Check the condition of the internal components of the master cylinder, replace the cylinder if necessary.

3. The piston seal is damaged. Repair the caliper.

4. The friction linings of the brake pads are oily. Check and replace the brake pads.

5. The brake pads are incorrect or hardened. Replace the pads.

6. The brake booster servo is faulty. Check the brake booster, make the necessary corrections/replacements.

7. The brake pads are worn out. Replace the pads.

When braking, directional stability is disrupted and the car pulls to the side

1. The tire pressure is not correct. Check and adjust the tire pressure.

2. Tires are worn unevenly. Replace worn tires.

3. The friction linings of the brake pads are oily. Check and replace the brake pads.

4. Different brake pads are installed on one axle. Replace the pads.

5. The brake pads are worn out. Replace the pads.

6. The caliper wells are dirty. Clean the guides and seating surfaces of the pads in the caliper.

7. The brake caliper cylinders are corroded. Replace the corresponding caliper.

8. Uneven wear of the pads. Replace the brake pads (on both wheels).

The brakes are stuck (braking occurs spontaneously)

1. The compensation hole in the master brake cylinder is clogged. Clean the master brake cylinder, replace the failed internal elements.

2. The clearance between the drive rod and the piston of the master brake cylinder is too small. Check the clearance, make the necessary corrections.

The brakes overheat while driving

1. The compensation hole in the master brake cylinder is clogged. Clean the master brake cylinder, replace the failed internal elements.

2. The clearance between the drive rod and the piston of the master brake cylinder is too small. Check the clearance, make the necessary corrections.

Vibrations occur during braking

1. The wrong type of brake pads are installed. Replace the pads, install genuine Opel pads.

2. The brake disc is corroded in places. Carefully polish the brake disc.

3. The brake disc has lateral runout. Treat or replace the disc.

The brake pads do not move away from the brake disc, the wheel is difficult to turn manually

1. The brake caliper cylinders are corroded. Repair the caliper, possibly replace it.

Uneven wear of brake pads

1. The wrong type of brake pads are installed. Replace the pads, install genuine Opel pads.

2. The caliper is dirty. Clean the caliper well.

3. The piston movement is difficult. Remove the obstruction.

4. The brake tract is not sealed. Check and eliminate the causes of the detected leaks.

Wedge-shaped wear of brake pads

1. The parallelism of the caliper installation relative to the brake disc is broken. Check the caliper mating surfaces.

2. The calipers are corroded. Remove contamination.

3. The piston is not functioning properly. Check the piston position and make any necessary corrections.

Squeaking brakes

1. Often the cause of brake squealing is atmospheric influences (air humidity). If the creaking appears after a long period of standing in high humidity and then disappears, there is no need to do anything.

2. The wrong type of pads are installed. Replace the pads, install genuine Opel pads, cover the base plates with anti-squeak paste.

3. The parallelism of the caliper installation relative to the brake disc is broken. Check the caliper mating surfaces.

4. The caliper shaft is dirty. Clean the shaft.

5. The brake shoe mounting springs are bent. Replace the springs.

Pedal pulsations occur during braking

1. Normal reaction of the brake circuit to the operation of ABS.

2. The lateral runout of the brake disc is excessive, or the thickness tolerance is violated. Replace the runout value and thickness of the disc. Turn the disc or replace it.

3. The brake disc does not rotate parallel to the caliper. Check the caliper mating surface.

ABS warning light comes on while driving

1. The supply voltage has dropped (below 10 V). Check the voltage. Check whether the generator indicator lamp goes out after the engine is started. If everything is OK, check the condition and tension of the generator drive V-belt.

2. The ABS is not functioning properly. Assess the quality of the contact connections, check the reliability of the grounding of the hydraulic modulator return pump to ground.

Suspension and steering

The directional stability is impaired (the car pulls to one side while driving)

1. Tires are unevenly inflated.

2. There is a defect in the tires.

3. Excessive wear of suspension or steering components (see Chapter Suspension and steering).

4. It is necessary to adjust the front wheel alignment angles.

5. The front brakes are seized (see Chapter Brake system).

There is jerking, twitching or vibration

1. Wheel balance is broken or rims are out of round. Have them balanced at a tire shop.

2. Wheel bearings are worn out, their tightening force has weakened, or the preload adjustment is disturbed (see Chapter Suspension and steering).

3. Shock absorbers or other suspension components are worn or damaged (see Chapter Suspension and steering).

There is excessive rocking of the car or "digging" of the nose when turning or braking

1. The shock absorbers are faulty. Replace the entire set (see Chapter Suspension and steering).

2. Coil springs and/or other suspension components are broken or weakened. Inspect (see Chapter Suspension and steering).

The steering wheel is too hard to turn

1. The fluid level in the power steering system reservoir has dropped excessively (see Chapter Suspension and steering).

2. The tires are not inflated correctly.

3. The steering gear joints are not sufficiently lubricated (see Chapter Suspension and steering).

4. The front wheel alignment angles are out of adjustment.

5. The power steering does not develop the required power.

There is excessive play in the steering

1. The tightening force of the front wheel bearings has weakened (see Chapter Suspension and steering).

2. Excessive wear of suspension or steering components (see Chapter Suspension and steering).

The power steering system does not develop the required force

1. The steering pump drive belt is worn or damaged, or its tension adjustment is incorrect (see Chapter Suspension and steering).

2. The hydraulic fluid level has dropped excessively (see Chapter Suspension and steering).

3. The hydraulic system lines are clogged. Check and replace if necessary.

4. Air has entered the hydraulic system. Bleed the system (see Chapter Suspension and steering).

There is excessive wear on the treads (not in one particular area)

1. The tires are not inflated correctly.

2. Wheel balance is disturbed. Contact a tire shop.

3. Wheel disks are damaged. Check and replace if necessary.

4. Excessive wear of suspension or steering components (see Chapter Suspension and steering).

There is excessive wear on the outer edge of the treads

1. The tires are not inflated correctly.

2. Turns are made too sharply. Reduce speed.

3. The front wheel alignment angles are out of adjustment (excessive convergence). Contact a workshop for professional adjustment.

4. The suspension arm is bent or twisted (see Chapter Suspension and steering).

There is excessive wear on the inner edge of the treads

1. The tires are not inflated correctly.

2. The front wheel alignment angles are out of adjustment (divergence). Make adjustments at a car service workshop.

3. Steering components are damaged or loose (see Chapter Suspension and steering).

There is local wear of the tread

1. Wheel balance is disturbed.

2. Damaged or bent discs. Check and replace if necessary.

3. There is a defect in the tires.

Windscreen wiper blade defects

Slippage

1. The rubber working elements of the brushes are dirty. Clean the elements with a stiff nylon brush using a detergent solution/wipe the elements with alcohol.

2. The edges of the brushes are frayed, the rubber working elements are worn or torn. Replace the elements.

3. The working elements of the brushes are covered with cracks that appear as a result of rubber aging. Replace the elements.

In the cleaning field, the remaining water immediately collects into drops

1. The windshield is contaminated with varnish polish or oil. Wipe the windshield with a clean rag soaked in a special product for removing traces of grease, oil, and silicones.

There is a noticeable difference in the quality of glass cleaning when the brush moves in opposite directions

1. There is a one-sided defect in the base of the rubber working element. Replace the element.

2. The brush is not properly seated on the glass surface due to the windshield wiper arm being twisted. Adjust the arm position accordingly.

Uncleaned sectors remain on the glass

1. The working element of the brush has fallen out of the mounting frame. Correct the element.

2. The brush does not fit tightly to the glass surface due to deformation of the spring bars or plates. Replace the brush.

This type of violation most often occurs as a result of careless attitude towards the installation of the brush.

3. The arm does not provide sufficient pressure of the brush to the glass. Lightly lubricate the wiper arm hinges and springs, replace the arms if necessary.

Tyre defects

Even wear of the treads on both sides

1. Insufficient tire inflation pressure.

Excessive uniform wear in the middle part of the tread

1. Tire inflation pressure is too high.

Uneven tread wear

1. There is a static or dynamic imbalance of the wheels, or excessive lateral runout of the wheel disk.

Uneven wear in the middle part of the tread

1. The result of wheel locking during intensive braking.

2. The static balance of the wheel assembly is disturbed.

Saw-tooth tread wear, often accompanied by a tear in the fabric base that is not visible to the naked eye

1. The result of vehicle overload. Carefully examine the condition of the inner surface of the tire.

Scaly wear on tread edges

1. Wheel alignment is out of adjustment.

2. The tire is worn out.

3. The result of wear of the rear shock absorbers (rear wheels).

Formation of burrs on one side of the front wheel tread

1. Wheel alignment is out of adjustment.

2. The tire is worn out.

3. The result of frequent movement on wavy terrain (grater).

4. The result of neglecting the requirement to reduce speed on turns.

Cord breaks, initially visible only on the inside of the tire

1. The result of running over rails and edges of curbs.

One-sided tread wear

1. The camber adjustment is out of adjustment.

2. The ABS is not functioning properly. Check the reliability of the grounding of the return pump of the hydraulic modulator assembly.