This section proposes the simplest scheme for finding out the causes of malfunctions and failures occurring in the components and systems of the vehicle. Failures and their possible causes are grouped according to their relation to certain components or systems of the vehicle, such as engine, cooling system, etc., in addition, the text provides references to Chapters and sections relevant to these problems.
Remember that successfully completing a root cause troubleshooting is not black magic reserved for experienced professional mechanics, but is determined by a combination of specific knowledge and a patient, systematic approach to investigating the problem. You should always move from simple to complex, bring each check to its logical conclusion and try not to miss the obvious facts - anyone can forget to fill the fuel tank or leave the lights on at night.
Finally, you should always try to get a clear picture of the development of the malfunction and take appropriate steps to prevent recurrence. If the failure of the electrical equipment occurred due to a violation of the quality of the contact, check at the same time the condition of all other contacts and electrical connectors of the system. If the same fuse continues to blow several times in a row, there is no point in replacing it further - you must try to find out the cause of the failure. Remember that the failure of a minor component may be a sign of a malfunction of a more important node or the entire system.
Engine
If the engine does not start, analyze the situation. For an engine to start at all, two basic conditions must be met. An air-fuel mixture should flow into the cylinders, and a spark should be generated at the spark plug. Therefore, firstly, you should check whether fuel is supplied. How to do this is described in Chapter Power and exhaust systems.
To determine if a spark is being produced, the candles should be unscrewed, inserted into the tips and individually applied to the mass. When doing this, do not hold the tip or ignition cable with your hands, but use well-insulated tongs. Have an assistant start the engine. If there is no spark, determine the cause of failure, guided by the Chapter Engine electrical equipment.
Procedures of diagnostics of an electronic control system and codes of malfunctions are given in the Chapter Engine electrical equipment.
Engine won't crank when trying to start it
1. The battery terminals are corroded or the wire ends are loose. Check the condition of the terminals and lugs. Tighten the terminal clamps, if necessary, remove traces of corrosion.
2. Discharged or defective battery. If the wire lugs are found clean and securely attached to the battery terminals, turn the ignition key to the ON position, then turn on the headlights and/or windshield wipers. If this electrical equipment does not function, the battery is dead.
3. Transmission is not correctly set in position «R» (AT) or into neutral (RKPP), or the clutch is not fully depressed.
4. The wiring in the starting system circuit is broken or the wires are loose on the terminals. Check the condition of the wires, terminals and electrical connectors of the battery, the starter traction relay and the ignition switch.
5. Starter gear stuck in flywheel ring gear. On models equipped with a manual transmission, put it in gear and, manually pulling it into the car, turn the engine over. At the first opportunity, remove the starter and check the condition of the gear and flywheel ring gear.
6. Defective starter relay (see chapter Engine electrical equipment).
7. Faulty starter (see chapter Engine electrical equipment).
8. Faulty ignition lock.
Engine cranks but won't start
Gas engine
1. Wrong start.
Procedure for starting a gasoline engine
Apply the parking brake, depress the clutch pedal. On models with АТ press and hold a brake pedal. On AT, set the selector to position «R» or «N». Do not depress the accelerator. Turn the ignition key and hold until the engine starts. If the engine does not start within 20 seconds, or stalls immediately after starting, repeat the starting process with the gas pedal half depressed. As soon as the engine starts, release the ignition key.
In frost below -15°C and at an altitude of more than 1000 m above sea level, start for at least 10 seconds with the pedal half depressed. Be sure to move on immediately. In freezing weather, allow the engine to warm up for at least 30 seconds. If the engine does not start after 10 seconds, abort the start and try again after 30 seconds.
Several unsuccessful attempts to start in a row can damage the catalytic converter, because. unburned fuel combusts explosively when heated in the working element of the converter.
Only on a hot engine: after starting, add a little gas.
2. Faulty or disabled engine immobilizer.
3. Electric fuel pump/electronic injection system fuse defective (see chapter Onboard electrical equipment).
4. Empty fuel tank or poor quality fuel.
5. The air filter is very dirty. There are vacuum leaks in the air supply elements, malfunctions in the fuel injection and ignition control system.
6. Low battery (engine cranks too slowly). Check the functioning of the electrical equipment (see above).
7. Battery terminal connections are oxidized or loose (see above).
8. The fuel pump is faulty, its fuse is blown, or the pump relay is damaged. Check by ear for proper operation of the pump when the ignition is turned on (see chapter Power and exhaust systems).
9. Damaged or excessively wet components of the ignition system (see chapter Engine electrical equipment).
10. Worn or defective spark plugs, or incorrect spark plug gap (see chapter Engine electrical equipment).
11. The wiring of the electric circuit of the starting system is broken or disconnected, or the fastening of the wires on the terminals is loose (see above).
12. Broken or disconnected ignition coil circuit wiring, or loose wires at coil terminals (see chapter Engine electrical equipment).
13. The fuse of the engine control unit, pulse sensor, coolant temperature sensor or intake air temperature sensor is damaged (see chapter Onboard electrical equipment).
14. Compression pressure dropped. Replace the cylinder head gasket, if necessary, recondition the engine.
Diesel engine
1. Wrong start.
Starting procedure for a turbodiesel engine
On a cold engine and when the outside temperature is below +8°C, apply the parking brake, depress the clutch pedal. On AT, set the selector to position «R» or «N». Turn the ignition key to position II and wait until the preheat indicator lamp goes out. Immediately after the control lamp goes out, start the engine without giving gas. If irregular flashes appear, do not turn off the starter until the engine runs evenly (no more than 30 seconds). If the engine does not start, repeat starting after half a minute as described above.
In the process of pre-heating the engine, do not turn on current consumers (light, heated rear window).
On a cold engine and at an outside temperature above +8°C, as well as with a warm engine, preheating is not required. The engine can be started immediately. Don't give gas.
2. Faulty engine immobilizer
3. The fuse of the electric fuel pump or the preheating system is faulty (see chapter Onboard electrical equipment).
4. The serviceability of the functioning of the preheating system is broken.
5. No voltage at the solenoid shut-off valve. Connect a voltmeter or LED probe to the switch. Turn on the ignition - the LED should light up. Otherwise, you should check for an open circuit in the wiring of the corresponding circuit. Carry out appropriate reconditioning if necessary.
6. Faulty solenoid shut-off valve. Check the reliability of the fastening of the electromagnetic switch, check the contacts. Turn the ignition on and off, you should hear a click in the switch.
7. There is damage in the fuel supply line, or air entering the fuel path:
- Mechanically damaged or clogged fuel lines. Check the patency of the lines, clean the fuel lines, remove air plugs from the tract, including the filter;
- Fuel filter clogged. Replace the filter element;
- In winter, the filter and fuel lines should be checked for signs of ice or wax formation. Put the car in a heated garage, add some gasoline to the power system;
- Clogged fuel tank ventilation path or fuel intake strainer. Check, clean the corresponding lines.
8. The adjustment of the start of the fuel supply is knocked down. Check and make appropriate adjustments.
9. Faulty nozzles. Check. Loosen the union nuts one by one, - when the nut of the faulty cylinder is unscrewed, the engine speed will not drop.
10. Faulty high pressure fuel pump (injection pump). Install a new or known-good injection pump for testing.
11. Compression pressure dropped. Replace the cylinder head gasket. Repair the engine if necessary.
The starter operates without cranking the engine
1. Stuck starter gear. Remove the starter (see chapter Engine electrical equipment) and check its status.
2. Worn or damaged starter gear teeth or flywheel crown.
Difficulty starting a cold engine
Please also refer to p. Difficulty starting/impaired stability of the cold engine (see below).
1. Low or insufficient battery (see Schedule of ongoing maintenance).
2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power system or electrical equipment (see chapters Power and exhaust systems and Engine electrical equipment).
3. Paraffin has accumulated in the diesel engine fine filter. Replace filter element. Refuel with winter fuel, or dilute with gasoline (refer to subsection «Diesel engine operation in winter conditions» Specifications for the Chapter Manual).
4. Faulty diesel engine glow plugs.
5. The compression pressure in the cylinders has dropped.
Difficulty starting a hot engine
1. The patency of the air filter is broken (see chapter Power and exhaust systems).
2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power system or electrical equipment (see chapters Power and exhaust systems and Engine electrical equipment).
3. Fuel does not reach the injection system injectors (see chapter Power and exhaust systems).
4. The installation of the gas distribution phases of the diesel engine is violated.
5. Compression pressure dropped (Gas engine) / the adjustment of the high-pressure fuel pump is violated (diesel engine).
Entering the starter into engagement with the crown of the flywheel / drive disk is difficult, or is accompanied by extraneous sounds
1. Worn or damaged starter gear teeth or flywheel crown.
2. Lost starter mounting bolts or loose tightening force.
3. There is internal damage to the starter. Replace starter.
Engine stalls immediately after starting
1. Faulty engine immobilizer.
2. The wiring is faulty, or the wires are loose at the terminals of the ignition coil or generator.
3. There is a malfunction of the components of the power system or electrical equipment (see chapters Power and exhaust systems and Engine electrical equipment).
4. The basic settings of the electronic control unit are violated (ECM).
5. There is damage in the exhaust system/catalytic converter.
6. Vacuum loss occurs through the sealing surfaces of the intake manifold or throttle body. Make sure that the fixing bolts/nuts are tightened securely, check the fact and quality of fastening on your fittings on the inlet pipeline of all vacuum hoses. Check the condition of the hoses and the correct connection (exactly to your fittings).
7. Air got into the power system (diesel engines).
The stability of idle revolutions of the engine is broken
All engines
1. There are vacuum losses. Make sure that the mounting bolts / nuts are tightened, check the fact and quality of fastening on your fittings on the inlet pipeline of all vacuum hoses. Listen to the running engine with a stethoscope or a piece of fuel hose - the presence of a hissing sound will reveal the source «leaks».
No less effective can be used for checking a solution of soapy water.
2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power system or electrical equipment (see chapters Power and exhaust systems and Engine electrical equipment).
3. The patency of the valve of the controlled crankcase ventilation system is disturbed (PCV) (see chapter Engine).
4. The patency of the air filter is broken (see chapter Power and exhaust systems).
5. The fuel pump does not supply enough fuel to the injection system injectors (see chapter Power and exhaust systems).
6. There are leaks through the cylinder head gasket. Measure the compression pressure in the engine cylinders.
7. Camshaft lobes worn out (see chapter Engine).
8. The timing belt is installed incorrectly or its tension is loose (see chapters Current service and Engine).
Diesel engines
1. The quality of the connections of the fuel hoses on the injection pump and the fuel filter is broken. Replace the fuel hoses, secure them with clamps, tighten the corner screws.
2. Mechanically damaged or loose fastening of the injection pump. Check, tighten fasteners.
3. The connections of the fuel supply and return lines are reversed. Make the appropriate corrections.
Sometimes the return line fitting screw is marked with the inscription «OUT».
4. Damaged fuel line:
- Mechanically damaged or clogged fuel lines. Check the patency of the lines, clean the fuel lines, remove air plugs from the tract, including the filter;
- Fuel filter clogged. Replace the filter element;
- In winter, the filter and fuel lines should be checked for signs of ice or wax formation. Put the car in a heated garage, add some gasoline to the power system;
- Clogged fuel tank ventilation path or fuel intake strainer. Check, clean the corresponding lines.
5. The adjustment of the start of the fuel supply is knocked down. Check and make appropriate adjustments.
6. Faulty nozzles. Check. Sequentially loosen the cap nuts - when the nut of the faulty cylinder is unscrewed, the engine speed will not drop.
7. Faulty high pressure fuel pump (injection pump). Install a new or known-good injection pump for testing.
The stability of the engine is disturbed during acceleration
1. The serviceability of the functioning of the power supply system is broken.
2. Clogged injectors/nozzles (see chapter Power and exhaust systems).
3. The installation of the gas distribution phases is violated (diesel engine) (see chapter Power and exhaust systems).
Misfiring occurs when the engine is idling
1. Worn or dirty spark plugs, or incorrect spark plug gap (see chapter Engine electrical equipment).
2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power system or electrical equipment (see chapters Power and exhaust systems and Engine electrical equipment).
3. Faulty spark plug wires (see chapter Engine electrical equipment).
4. The fuel filter is clogged or low quality fuel is filled in the tank.
5. There is a loss of vacuum in the intake manifold or through the hose connections (see above The stability of the engine is disturbed during acceleration).
6. The compression pressure has dropped, or the uniformity of its distribution between the cylinders is broken. Take a compression test (see chapter Engine).
7. There are violations in the operation of the engine control system.
8. Damaged crankcase ventilation hoses (PCV), or their landing on their receiving fittings has weakened.
Misfiring occurs when vehicle is in gear
1. The patency of the fuel filter is broken or the power system is contaminated (see chapter Power and exhaust systems).
2. Faulty or dirty spark plugs or incorrect spark plug gap (see chapter Engine electrical equipment).
3. There is a malfunction of the components of the power system or electrical equipment (see chapters Power and exhaust systems and Engine electrical equipment).
4. There is a defect in the spark plug wires (see chapter Engine electrical equipment).
5. Components of systems of decrease in toxicity of the fulfilled gases are faulty.
6. The compression pressure has dropped, or the uniformity of its distribution between the cylinders is broken. Take a compression test (see chapter Engine).
7. Faulty ignition system (see chapter Engine electrical equipment).
8. Vacuum loss occurs at the throttle body, intake manifold, or through the vacuum hoses (see above The stability of the engine is disturbed during acceleration).
9. The fuel pump does not provide sufficient pressure (see chapter Power and exhaust systems).
10. The patency of the vent valve of the fuel tank is broken (see chapter Power and exhaust systems).
11. Violated patency of fuel lines (see chapter Power and exhaust systems).
12. The serviceability of the functioning of the power supply system is broken (see chapter Power and exhaust systems).
The engine spontaneously stalls
1. Idle speed adjustment is broken.
2. The patency of the fuel filter is broken or the power system is contaminated (see chapter Power and exhaust systems).
3. Air got into the fuel system (diesel engines).
4. The patency of the tract of the fuel tank ventilation system is broken.
5. There is a failure of the components of the power system or information sensors (see chapter Power and exhaust systems).
6. Components of systems of decrease in toxicity of the fulfilled gases are faulty.
7. Faulty or dirty spark plugs, or incorrect spark plug gap (see chapter Current service). Also check the condition of the spark plug wires (see chapter Engine electrical equipment).
8. There is vacuum loss at the throttle body or through the vacuum hoses (see above The stability of the engine is disturbed during acceleration).
The engine does not develop full power
All engines
1. There is a malfunction of the components of the power system or electrical equipment (see chapters Power and exhaust systems and Engine electrical equipment).
2. The patency of the air cleaner is broken. Clean or replace the air filter.
3. Faulty spark plugs or incorrect spark plug gap (see chapter Current service).
4. Faulty ignition coil (see chapter Engine electrical equipment).
5. ATF level does not meet the requirements of the Specifications (see chapters Manual and automatic transmission).
6. Clutch slips (see chapter Clutch and drive shafts).
7. The patency of the fuel filter is broken or the power system is contaminated (see chapter Power and exhaust systems).
8. Wrong grade of fuel filled. Fill the tank with fuel with the required octane rating.
9. Damaged turbocharger control valve.
10. Low compression pressure in all or individual cylinders. Carry out a compression test, the analysis of the results of which reveals the presence of valve leaks and / or a leak in the cylinder head gasket (see chapter Engine).
11. The timing belt is installed incorrectly, or its tension force has weakened (see chapters Current service and Engine).
12. «tacked on» brakes.
13. Clutch slips (models with manual transmission) (see chapter Clutch and drive shafts).
Diesel engines
1. Air cleaner clogged. Clean or replace.
2. The uniformity of fuel distribution from the injection pump to the cylinders is broken. Check, make the appropriate adjustment on a warm engine.
3. Incorrectly set the moment of the start of the injection pump fuel supply. Check and make appropriate adjustments.
4. Clogged fuel filter, injection pump, or any of the nozzles. Flush the pre-filter, change the fine filter element, clean the atomizer or replace the pump/nozzle.
5. Adjustment of the maximum frequency of rotation of the crankshaft is violated.
There are pops in the intake system or shots in the exhaust system
1. There is a malfunction of the components of the power system or electrical equipment (see chapters Power and exhaust systems and Engine electrical equipment).
2. There is a defect in the secondary circuit of the ignition system (destruction of spark plug insulators or defects in spark plug wires) (see chapter Engine electrical equipment).
3. Disrupted fuel supply to the injection injectors / nozzles (see chapter Power and exhaust systems).
4. The fuel injection system needs to be adjusted, or its components are excessively worn (see chapter Power and exhaust systems).
5. Vacuum loss occurs at the throttle body, intake manifold, or vacuum hoses (see above Impaired engine idle stability).
6. Stuck valves (see chapter Engine).
7. The order of connecting candle wires is violated (see chapter Engine electrical equipment).
8. The timing belt is installed incorrectly or its tension is loose (see chapters Current service and Engine).
9. Detonation sounds occur when accelerating or going uphill
10. The fuel tank is filled with poor quality fuel.
11. There is a malfunction of the components of the power system or electrical equipment (see chapters Power and exhaust systems and Engine electrical equipment).
12. Wrong type of spark plugs installed. Check spark plugs and coils for damage (see chapter Engine electrical equipment).
13. The basic settings of the electronic control unit are violated.
14. Faulty knock sensor.
15. Vacuum losses occur (see above Impaired engine idle stability).
There is an ignition (the engine continues to run after the ignition is turned off)
1. Excessively high idle (see chapter Engine).
2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power system or electrical equipment (see chapter Engine electrical equipment and below The engine continues to run after the ignition is turned off).
3. The purge valve of the coal adsorber of the fuel vapor capture system is damaged (EVAP).
4. Engine operating temperature is too high. Possible causes of this violation may be a decrease in the coolant level (see chapter Cooling, heating systems), thermostat failure, radiator blockage, or water pump malfunction (see chapter Cooling, heating systems).
5. There is excessive carbon formation in the combustion chambers of the engine (see chapter Engine).
6. Engine operating temperature is too high.
7. Faulty shut-off solenoid valve (diesel engine) (see chapter Power and exhaust systems).
Diesel engine exhaust is excessively smoky
Black smoke:
1. Air cleaner dirty. Purge or replace element;
2. Incorrect fuel filled in the tank. Flush the tank and change the fuel;
3. Incorrectly set the moment of the beginning of the supply of high pressure fuel pump.
Blue smoke:
1. Oil gets into the combustion chambers due to wear of the piston rings, high oil level in the air cleaner, wear of the seals in the turbocharger covers, the formation of leaks in the gasket between the crankcase and the turbocharger. Repair the engine, set the normal oil level, replace the oil seals, tighten the turbocharger mounting bolts or replace the gasket;
2. Disrupted fuel supply to one of the nozzles. Check for heating of the exhaust pipes of the manifold;
3. The quality of fuel atomization by the injector is impaired due to a valve malfunction or an atomizer break. Lap the valve or replace the nozzle.
White or brown smoke:
1. Coolant does not warm up to normal operating temperature. Check the functioning of the thermostat;
2. The correct functioning of the nozzles is broken due to wear or damage to the atomizer. Replace atomizer.
Noises, smells and vibrations that occur during the operation of the engine
During acceleration or when the load on the engine is increased, there are knocks caused by too early ignition or detonation
1. The car was fueled with low octane gasoline. Fill the fuel tank with quality fuel.
2. The setting of the ignition timing is violated. Check the condition of the relevant information sensors and other components of the ignition / engine management system. Replace defective items.
3. Faulty or too loose knock sensor. Violation of the sensor tightening force can lead to ignition delay and, as a result, a decrease in the power developed by the engine. Assess the condition of the sensor, check its tightening force, replace if necessary.
4. Non-standard spark plugs installed. Replace the spark plugs, make sure the electrode gaps are set correctly.
When operating the vehicle in high-speed mode, it is better to install more «cold» candles.
5. There is excessive carbon formation in the combustion chambers. Use special fuel additives, or disassemble and decarbonize the cylinder head.
6. The serviceability of the functioning of the power supply / engine control system is broken. Check the condition of the relevant information sensors and control modules. Replace defective components.
7. Passability of a path of system of release of the fulfilled gases is broken. Inspect system components for deformations and other mechanical defects. Compare the temperature at the inlet and outlet of the catalytic converter and the muffler - if the temperature of the inlet stream is much higher than the temperature of the outlet, then the patency of the corresponding component is impaired.
High-frequency squealing or whistling occurs when the engine is running
1. Accessory drive belts worn or loose. Check, make necessary adjustments, replace worn belts.
2. Worn or seized auxiliary belt tensioner bearings. Check the tensioners, if necessary, replace the components.
3. Faulty water pump. The pump may not leak, which does not exclude the possibility of worn bearings or loose/seized rotors. Replace pump.
When the engine is running, there is a metallic rattle
1. The water pump is faulty, or its mounting bolts are loose. Check fastener torque, replace defective pump.
2. Worn or seized auxiliary belt tensioner bearings. Check the tensioners, if necessary, replace the components.
During engine operation, various kinds of knocks occur
1. Serviceability of functioning of hydraulic correctors of valve backlashes in pushers is broken (on corresponding models). Check the level and condition of the engine oil. Change the oil and oil filter if necessary. Check if the pushers have collapsed. Replace defective components. In addition, the proper functioning of the hydraulic tappets depends on the pressure of the engine oil - check the oil filter for patency, the condition of the oil pump and its pressure reducing valve.
2. On models with manual adjustment of valve clearances, check the installation of the latter and assess the degree of wear of the timing components. If necessary, make the appropriate adjustment, replace the failed parts.
3. Worn or incorrectly adjusted timing belt/chain. Check, make necessary adjustments, replace defective drive components.
4. Deformed or otherwise damaged intake or exhaust valve stems. Remove the cylinder head, check the condition of the valve assembly components, replace defective parts.
When the engine is running, there is a strong thud
1. Loose fastening of the crankshaft pulley or flywheel. Check, replace the fixing bolts and tighten them to the required torque.
2. As a result of hydraulic blocking, deformation of the connecting rod occurred (ov). The necessary reconditioning of the power unit should be carried out.
3. Excessively worn or damaged connecting rod bearings - this kind of situation most often occurs as a result of a decrease in oil pressure. Carry out the appropriate reconditioning of the engine.
When the engine is running, there is a distinct smell of gasoline in the passenger compartment and near the car
1. Check the fuel level, - overfilling the tank can lead to minor fuel leaks through the neck. The smell should disappear already in the first 20-25 km of run as a result of purging the carbon adsorber.
2. The tightness of the fit of the fuel filler cap is broken. Check, tighten the cover, if necessary, replace it.
3. The hose clamps of the fuel supply or return lines of the fuel system path have loosened. Check the fastening of the clamps, if necessary, make appropriate replacements. It is also possible that the sealing glands of the active components of the power system will fail. Check and replace defective seals.
4. Evaluate the fuel economy. If the increase in flow is due to the failure of the functioning of any components, or to a malfunction in the ignition of the air-fuel mixture, contamination of the catalytic converter may occur. Usually, the driver is warned about the occurrence of such situations by the operation of the warning lamp «Check engine». Check the condition of the spark plugs, or analyze the composition of the exhaust gases. Replace faulty spark plugs and failed components of the power system.
When the engine is running, there is a smell of hydrogen sulfide near the car (rotten eggs)
1. As a result of supplying a lean mixture to the combustion chambers, the catalytic converter overheats, in which an irreversible chemical reaction occurs with the release of hydrogen sulfide. Check up serviceability of a condition of a sealing lining and vacuum lines of an inlet path, make necessary corrections.
2. As a result of a malfunction of the generator or voltage regulator, the battery is constantly recharged, accompanied by boiling of the electrolyte. Carefully inspect the battery case for cracks, blisters, or other damage. If necessary, remove the battery and thoroughly wash the surface of the support tray with baking soda before installing a new one. Check the alternator/voltage regulator for proper operation, make necessary repairs or replace failed components.
There is a sweet smell when the engine is running near the car
1. There are external coolant leaks. Check the condition of the radiator cap, seals and gaskets of the components of the cooling path, evaluate the tightness of the hose clamps. Tighten fasteners, replace failed components.
2. There are coolant leaks through the radiator, expansion tank or heater heat exchanger. Carefully inspect the radiator and expansion tank, check for fluid leaks on the mats under the instrument panel.
3. As a result of the development of internal leaks, coolant enters the combustion chambers, which is usually accompanied by the release of thick white smoke / steam in the exhaust. This kind of situation can occur as a result of the destruction of the cylinder head gasket, as well as the appearance of cracks in the body of the block / cylinder head. Additional symptoms of internal coolant leaks are whitish deposits on the inside of the engine oil filler cap, and kinked or swollen radiator hoses.
When the engine is idling, strong vibrations occur
1. The fastening of the suspension mounts of the power unit is loose, or their rubber pads are worn out. Check the condition of the supports, tighten the fasteners, replace the failed components.
2. The crankcase protection elements are deformed, or their fastening is loose. Check, tighten the fasteners, restore the original shape of the protective plates.
Vibration intensity increases during acceleration
1. Damaged or lost rubber suspensions of the supports of the elements of the exhaust system. Check and replace defective components.
2. The correct laying of sections of the exhaust system is violated. Evaluate the adequacy of the gasket, make sure that the components of the exhaust system do not come into contact with body elements and suspension elements.
Engine electrical equipment
Procedures of diagnostics of an electronic control system and codes of malfunctions are given in the Chapter Engine electrical equipment.
Battery not «keeps» charge
1. The alternator drive belt is worn or damaged, or its tension is not adjusted (see chapter Engine electrical equipment).
2. Insufficient electrolyte level or severely discharged battery (see chapter Engine electrical equipment).
3. There is corrosion of the battery terminals, or the fastening of the wire lugs on them has loosened (see chapter Engine electrical equipment).
4. The generator does not provide the required charge current (see chapter Engine electrical equipment).
5. Broken or otherwise damaged charging circuit wiring, or loose wires at the terminals (see chapter Engine electrical equipment).
6. There is a short circuit in the electrical wiring, creating a constant leakage of current generated by the battery to ground (see chapter Engine electrical equipment and Schematic diagrams of electrical connections).
7. There is an internal defect in the battery.
The charging indicator lamp does not go out when the rpm is increased
1. Loose drive belt. Check the V-belt tensioner.
2. The level of impellent oil has fallen, or the wrong grade of oil has been filled (see chapter Current service).
3. Faulty oil pressure sensor (see chapter Engine electrical equipment).
4. Excessively worn motor/oil pump bearings (see chapter Engine).
5. Engine operating temperature is too high.
6. Defective oil pump pressure reducing valve (see chapter Engine).
7. The patency of the mesh filter of the oil intake is broken. Remove the oil pan, clean the filter (see chapter Engine).
8. Overrunning clutch damaged (only turbodiesel). Remove the generator and rotate its drive shaft to the left. If the pulley face does not rotate, then the overrunning clutch is usually the source of the failure.
9. Damaged voltage regulator/generator. Disconnect the wire (B+) on the reverse side of the generator and turn on the ignition - if now the control lamp does not work, the malfunction, as a rule, is in the voltage regulator or in the generator.
10. Worn brushes. Visually inspect the brushes and replace if necessary.
11. Damaged regulator. Check and replace if necessary.
12. Damaged generator. Check and replace if necessary.
13. Damaged wiring in the section of the circuit between the generator and the voltage regulator.
14. Damaged instrument cluster.
The charging indicator lamp does not light up when the ignition key is turned to the «ON» (when the ignition is turned on)
1. Burnt out or otherwise failed control lamp on the instrument panel (see chapter Onboard electrical equipment).
2. Faulty generator (see chapter Engine electrical equipment).
3. There is a defect in the printed circuit board, wiring inside the instrument panel or lamp socket (see chapter Onboard electrical equipment).
The charge indicator lamp remains on after the ignition is turned off
1. Broken diodes. Check, if necessary, replace the diode assembly.
Starter
1. If the starter does not turn, first of all, check the presence of the necessary voltage (minimum 10 V) at terminal 50 of the traction relay (see chapter Engine electrical equipment). If the result of the check is below the specified value, proceed to check the condition of the starter circuit wiring (see wiring diagrams).
2. Checking the operation of the starter at full battery voltage can be done as follows:
- Without including gears, turn on the ignition;
- Bridge terminals 30 and 50 of the starter with a minimum 4 mm wire2.
3. If the starter works flawlessly, the cause of the malfunction should be sought in the condition of the electrical wiring of its circuit. If the starter does not work, it should be checked in the removed state.
An indispensable condition for verification is the reliability of the fastening of the contact terminals and the absence of traces of oxidation on them.
The starter does not rotate when the key is turned in the ignition lock in position III
1. Low battery. Charge the battery.
2. Bridge terminals 30 and 50 of the starter: The starter turns. Broken wire 50 to the ignition switch, the starter switch is faulty. Repair break, replace defective parts.
3. The ground bus is broken, or the quality of its fastening is violated. Check the condition of the battery wires, measure the battery voltage, recharge if necessary.
4. The contact connections are oxidized, or the quality of the mounting on the terminals is broken. Strip the battery terminals, check the quality of the connection of the electrical wiring laid between the battery, starter and ground.
5. There is no voltage at terminal 50 of the traction relay. Broken wire, starter switch defective.
The starter rotates slowly and does not turn the crankshaft
1. Low battery. Charge the battery.
2. Filled with summer oil (during the cold season). Fill in all-weather oil. The contact connections are oxidized, or the quality of the fasteners on the terminals is broken. Strip the battery terminals, check the quality of the connection of the electrical wiring laid between the battery, starter and ground.
3. The carbon brushes are not tight enough to the commutator, stuck in the guides, worn, broken, oily or dirty. Check the condition of the brushes and their guides, make the appropriate corrections.
4. Insufficient distance between brushes and commutator. Replace brushes and clean brush guides.
5. The surface of the collector is burnt, oily, or furrows have formed on it. Process the collector, if necessary, replace the anchor.
6. There is no voltage at the corresponding terminal of the traction relay (minimum 10 V). Check up a condition of the switch of a starter and the traction relay.
7. Broken bearing. Check the condition of the bearing, replace if necessary.
8. Faulty traction relay. Check and replace if necessary.
The starter does not provide uniform cranking of the engine
1. Defective gear drive. Check and replace if necessary.
2. The gear is dirty. Clean the gear.
3. Damaged flywheel ring gear. Process the ring gear, if necessary, replace the flywheel.
Starter gear does not disengage from flywheel ring gear
1. Damaged gear drive or dirty threads. Clean the drive, replace if necessary.
2. Faulty traction relay. Replace the traction relay.
3. Weak or broken return spring. Replace spring.
The starter continues to work after the ignition key is released
1. There was a failure to turn off the traction relay as a result of jamming. Switch off the ignition immediately and replace the relay.
2. The ignition lock does not turn off. Disconnect the battery, replace the lock assembly.
Supply system
Excessive fuel consumption
All engines
1. The patency of the air cleaner is broken. Check and, if necessary, replace the filter element (see chapter Power and exhaust systems).
2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power system, electrical equipment or electronic control system (see chapters Power and exhaust systems and Engine electrical equipment).
3. There are leaks in the intake air path.
4. Damaged exhaust system/catalytic converter.
5. Insufficient tire inflation pressure, or wrong size tires fitted.
Diesel engine
1. The patency of the fuel return line is broken. Blow air through the line from the injection pump to the fuel tank.
2. Excessively high maximum speed and idle speed. Check and make appropriate adjustments if necessary.
3. The engine has mechanical damage. Check the compression pressure, if necessary, make the appropriate reconditioning of the engine (see chapter Engine).
There is a smell of fuel in the cabin
1. Damaged fuel tank (see chapter Power and exhaust systems).
2. Fuel tank full. Stop refueling as soon as the gun automatically shuts off.
3. There are leaks of fuel or fuel vapors from the lines of power systems and reducing the toxicity of exhaust gases (see chapter Power and exhaust systems).
Engine won't start
1. The electric fuel pump does not work when the starter is turned on (no characteristic sound). In order to eliminate possible jamming, lightly tap on the pump housing. Check that the supply voltage to the pump is correct. Check the condition of the appropriate fuse. Check the condition of the terminal connections in the pump circuit.
2. Faulty fuel pump relay. Check the relay.
3. The emergency fuel switch under the driver's seat has tripped (with appropriate vehicle equipment). Push the switch button.
4. Stuck injector valves. Check injectors, replace if necessary. Check the serviceability of the supply voltage to the injectors, for which disconnect the connectors of their electrical wiring. Connect the diode control lamp to the wire and turn on the starter - the control lamp should start flashing.
5. No signal from camshaft position or coolant temperature sensor. Check the condition of the relevant electrical wiring. Read fault codes.
6. Damaged, clogged or leaking fuel lines, hoses are defective.
7. Clogged fuel filter.
8. As a result of a leak, additional air is sucked into the exhaust system.
9. Vacuum hoses are damaged, or there is a violation of the tightness of their connection.
10. Damaged fuel pressure regulator. Check residual pressure.
11. Damaged throttle position sensor.
12. Disrupted power supply to the electronic engine control unit.
13. Ice or paraffin has formed in the fuel filter or fuel lines of the diesel engine.
14. The patency of the ventilation path of the fuel tank is broken / the filter is clogged.
15. The correct functioning of the pre-heating system is broken.
16. Damaged fuel cut-off valve in a diesel engine.
17. The moment of the start of fuel supply is down (diesel).
18. Damaged diesel engine nozzles. Loosen the union nuts one by one, - when the nut of the faulty cylinder is unscrewed, the engine speed will not drop.
19. Faulty injection pump.
Difficulty starting/impaired stability of the cold engine
1. Carbon monoxide content (SO) does not meet regulatory requirements. Check CO level and idle speed setting.
2. Faulty coolant or intake air temperature sensor. Check sensors.
3. Fuel pressure does not match the required value. Check fuel pressure.
4. As a result of a leak, additional air is sucked into the exhaust system.
Difficult to start / unstable operation of a warm engine
1. The tightness of the intake air path is broken. To check, leave the engine running at idle and moisten the joints of the intake tract with gasoline. If the speed increases for a short time, eliminate the causes of leakage.
Try not to inhale toxic vapors of gasoline!
2. Damaged fuel pump check valve.
3. There are leaks in the power system.
4. Increased fuel pressure in the power system.
5. Serviceability of functioning of system of catching of fuel evaporations is broken (EVAP).
6. The patency of the fuel return line is broken as a result of its internal blockage or mechanical deformation of the tube.
7. Stuck injector valves. Check injectors, replace if necessary. Check the serviceability of the supply voltage to the injectors, for which disconnect the connectors of their electrical wiring. Connect the diode control lamp to the wire and turn on the starter - the control lamp should start flashing.
8. No signal from camshaft position sensor or coolant temperature sensor. Check the condition of the relevant electrical wiring. Read fault codes.
9. As a result of leakage, additional air is sucked into the exhaust system.
10. Vacuum hoses are damaged, or there is a violation of the tightness of their connection.
11. Damaged fuel pressure regulator. Check residual pressure.
12. Damaged throttle position sensor.
13. Disrupted power supply to the electronic engine control unit.
Engine runs intermittently
1. There are unstable violations of the quality of the contact connections of the fuel pump. Check the condition of the terminals and connectors of the fuel pump electrical wiring, air flow meter and fuel pump relay. Check the condition of the relevant fuse and relay terminals. Clean the contact surfaces, if necessary, replace the failed components.
2. Poor quality fuel was used to refuel the vehicle, or vapor locks form in the fuel lines. Fill the tank with the correct type of fuel.
3. Insufficient flow of fuel supplied to the engine. Check pump performance.
4. Defective fuel filter. Check and replace if necessary.
5. Faulty fuel pump. Check and replace if necessary.
6. Faulty injectors. Check and replace if necessary.
7. The oxygen sensor is faulty, there are violations in the mixture quality control circuit, or the sensor heating is broken.
8. Faulty throttle position sensor (TPS). Check TPS, replace if necessary.
9. Damaged exhaust manifold or exhaust pipe (there are exhaust leaks).
10. There is no signal from the camshaft position sensor or coolant temperature sensor. Check the condition of the relevant electrical wiring. Read fault codes.
11. As a result of a leak, additional air is sucked into the exhaust system.
12. Vacuum hoses are damaged, or there is a violation of the tightness of their connection.
13. Damaged fuel pressure regulator. Check residual pressure.
14. Damaged throttle position sensor.
15. Disrupted power supply to the electronic engine control unit.
16. Serviceability of functioning of system of catching of fuel evaporations is broken (EVAP).
17. The fastening of the fuel hoses to the injection pump and the fuel filter of the diesel engine has loosened.
18. When connected, the fuel supply and return lines of the injection pump were reversed (diesel engine).
The engine runs intermittently during transients and idling
1. The tightness of the intake air path is broken. To check, leave the engine running at idle and moisten the joints of the intake tract with gasoline. If the speed increases for a short time, eliminate the causes of leakage.
Try not to inhale toxic vapors of gasoline!
2. The idle speed setting is violated. Check regulator, throttle position sensor (TPS) and lambda control.
3. Defective or incorrectly adjusted throttle position sensor. Check sensor.
Difficulty starting a hot engine
1. Carbon monoxide content (SO) does not meet regulatory requirements. Check CO level and idle speed setting.
2. Too high pressure in the fuel system. Check fuel pressure, replace pressure regulator if necessary.
3. Clogged or bent return line between pressure regulator and fuel tank. Clean or replace piping.
4. Faulty engine temperature sensor. Check temperature sensor.
5. Leaky power system. Make a visual inspection of all connections in the area of the engine and electric fuel pump. Tighten all connections.
6. Leaky air intake system. Check all intake system connections.
The engine continues to run after the ignition is turned off
1. Leaky injectors. Check injectors.
2. Faulty fuel cut-off valve (diesel engine).
Exhaust system
The operation of the engine occurs with an increased background noise
1. The tightness of the exhaust system path is broken.
2. Elements of the exhaust system come into contact with body and/or suspension components (see chapters Power and exhaust systems and Body).
Lubrication system
When the ignition is turned on, the corresponding control lamp does not work
1. Faulty oil pressure sensor. Turn on the ignition, disconnect the wire from the oil pressure sensor and short it to ground. If the lamp lights up, replace the sensor.
2. The supply voltage to the sensor is broken due to oxidation of the contact connections. Check the condition of the wiring terminals.
3. The control lamp is faulty. Replace the control lamp.
4. Faulty control device. Replace control device.
The control lamp does not go out shortly after starting the engine
1. Oil overheating occurs - if the lamp goes out when the gas pedal is depressed, no action is required.
The control lamp does not go out after applying gas or lights up while driving
1. Oil pressure is not high enough. Check oil level, correct if necessary (see chapter Current service). Check oil pressure.
2. There is a short to ground in the wire connected to the pressure sensor. Disconnect the wiring from the sensor and take it aside (without grounding), turn on the ignition - if the lamp lights up, check the wire.
3. Faulty oil pressure sensor. Check and replace if necessary.
Oil pressure remains low at all RPMs
1. The oil level has dropped too much. Check and correct if necessary (see chapter Current service).
2. The patency of the mesh filter of the oil intake is broken. Remove the oil pan, clean the filter.
3. Worn oil pump. Remove and check the oil pump, replace if necessary.
4. Damaged shaft bearings. Remove the engine, make the necessary reconditioning (see chapter Engine).
Oil pressure not high enough at low rpm
1. Reducing valve stuck open due to contamination. Remove and check the valve.
Oil pressure rises excessively above 2000 rpm
1. Pressure reducing valve does not open due to contamination. Remove and check the valve.
Cooling system
Overheat
1. Engine coolant level dropped (see chapter Cooling, heating systems).
2. The water pump drive belt is worn or damaged, or its tension is not adjusted (see chapters Current service and Engine).
3. The internal channels of the radiator are blocked, or the patency of the radiator grille is impaired (see chapter Cooling, heating systems).
4. Faulty thermostat (see chapter Cooling, heating systems).
5. Cracked or otherwise damaged cooling fan blades (see chapter Cooling, heating systems).
6. Faulty fan switch switch.
7. Faulty coolant temperature gauge.
8. Faulty coolant pump. Remove and check the pump.
9. The radiator cap does not hold pressure. Perform a pressure test on the cap.
Hypothermia
1. Faulty thermostat (see chapter Cooling, heating systems).
2. The readings of the temperature meter are inaccurate.
External coolant leaks
1. The hoses are damaged or destroyed as a result of aging of the material, or their fastening on the fittings has loosened. Replace hoses/tighten hose clamps (see chapter Cooling, heating systems).
2. Damaged water pump seals - coolant will seep through the control hole in the pump housing (see chapter Cooling, heating systems).
3. There are leaks from the internal channels of the radiator or its side reservoir (ov). Professional Radiator Repair Needed (a description of the removal procedure is given in Chapter Cooling, heating systems).
4. There are leaks from the engine drain plug (see chapter Engine) or squeeze plugs of water galleries (see chapter Cooling, heating systems).
Internal coolant leaks
Internal coolant leaks are usually identified by checking the condition of the engine oil. Inspect the feeler blade and inside surfaces of the cover (lids) cylinders for signs of fluid ingress and signs of foaming in the oil.
1. There are leaks from the cylinder head gasket. Perform a pressure test on the cooling system.
2. There are cracks in the cylinder walls or in the head casting. Disassemble the engine to check (see chapter Engine).
Loss of coolant occurs
1. Too much coolant in the system (see chapter Cooling, heating systems).
2. The coolant boils away as a result of engine overheating.
3. There are internal or external refrigerant leaks (see above).
4. Faulty radiator cap. Check the cover with pressure.
Coolant circulation interrupted
1. Serviceability of functioning of the water pump is broken. To check, pinch the upper radiator hose while the engine is idling - if you feel a push of fluid inside it when you release the hose, the pump is functioning properly (see chapter Cooling, heating systems).
2. The patency of the cooling system is broken. Drain the coolant, flush the system and refill it with fresh mixture (see chapter Cooling, heating systems). Remove the radiator if necessary (see chapter Cooling, heating systems) and backflush it.
3. The water pump drive belt is worn or damaged, or its tension is not adjusted (see chapters Current service and Engine).
4. Stuck thermostat (see chapter Cooling, heating systems).
Interior heating system
Heater fan does not rotate
1. The fan drive motor fuse is defective. Check the condition of the relevant fuse (see chapter Onboard electrical equipment), replace if necessary.
2. Faulty fan switch.
3. Faulty drive motor. Check the power supply to the motor with the ignition on and the control switch closed. If the voltage is correct, replace the electric motor.
The functioning of the heater fan is broken in any of the speed modes
1. Faulty resistive assembly. Check and replace if necessary.
The heater cannot be turned off with the switch
1. Defective switch. Check and replace if necessary.
2. Drive cables of the mixing damper are damaged or their mobility is impaired. Replace cables.
The heater does not provide the required intensity of heating of the air supplied to the passenger compartment
1. Coolant level too low. Check and correct if necessary (see chapter Current service).
2. Faulty heater control assembly. Check, if necessary, replace the failed drive cable.
The operation of the heater fan is accompanied by an increased background noise
1. Debris has entered the fan impeller or air ducts. Check, if necessary, remove the fan and remove debris.
2. Impeller out of balance/bearing damaged. Remove the drive motor, check the freedom of rotation of the relevant components.
Clutch
Clutch won't disengage (the freedom of switching the manual transmission control lever to the reverse gear position and back is violated when the clutch pedal is depressed to the floor)
1. Bent or otherwise damaged clutch disc (see chapter Clutch and drive shafts).
Clutch slips (engine speed increases without increasing vehicle speed)
1. The clutch disc is contaminated with oil or its friction linings are worn out. Remove the clutch (see chapter Clutch and drive shafts) and check the status of its components. If necessary, replace the assembly.
2. The clutch disc did not break in properly. It may take 30 to 40 normal starts of the car to finally break in a new disc.
3. Worn pressure plate/clutch basket (see chapter Clutch and drive shafts).
Vibration occurs when clutch is engaged
1. Oily clutch disc. Remove the clutch (see chapter Clutch and drive shafts) and check the status of its components. Eliminate the cause of the development of oil leaks.
2. Driven disc hub splines worn (clutch disc). Remove the clutch (see chapter Clutch and drive shafts) and check the status of its components.
3. Bent pressure plate/clutch basket or flywheel. Remove the clutch (see chapter Clutch and drive shafts) and check the status of its components. Check the condition of the flywheel.
Jerks when using the clutch, jerks are felt
1. Powertrain suspension mounts damaged. Check and replace if necessary.
2. Loose gearbox mounting. Tighten the mounting bolts.
3. The uniformity of the fit of the pressure plate is broken. Replace clutch basket.
4. The alignment of the gearbox relative to the crankshaft is broken. Check centering.
When the clutch is fully engaged (pedal released) screeching or rattling occurs
1. Stuck clutch release bearing. Remove the clutch (see chapter Clutch and drive shafts) and check the condition of the bearing. Remove all burrs and burrs, lubricate the bearing before reinstalling.
Squealing or rattling occurs when the clutch is fully disengaged (pedal depressed)
1. Worn or damaged release bearing (see chapter Clutch and drive shafts).
2. Worn or damaged springs (or aperture blades) pressure plate in the clutch basket (see chapter Clutch and drive shafts).
Clutch pedal stays depressed to the floor after releasing
1. Stuck master or slave cylinder piston. There is damage to the components of the hydraulic drive or the release bearing. Check the condition of the components, if necessary, make the appropriate replacements.
Manual gearbox (RKPP)
When the gearbox is set to neutral, extraneous noises occur during engine operation
1. Worn input shaft bearing.
2. Drive shaft bearing damaged.
3. Worn intermediate shaft bearings.
4. Washers for adjusting the axial play of the intermediate shaft are worn or damaged.
Extraneous noises occur in any position of the manual transmission
1. Any of the above reasons and/or:
2. Insufficient amount of gear oil is filled in the manual transmission (his level dropped).
Extraneous noise occurs in any particular gear
1. Worn, damaged or chipped gear teeth of this gear.
2. The synchronizer of this transmission is worn out or damaged.
Going on «jumping off» Gearbox with top gear
1. Dirt has got between the gearbox boat and the engine or the gearbox has shifted in relation to the engine.
Complications occur when shifting gears
1. Not fully squeezed out (turned off) clutch.
2. The shift rod is damaged, its fastening is loose or the adjustment is broken. Make a thorough check of the condition of the components, if necessary, replace the defective ones.
Transmission oil leaks
1. Too much gear oil in the gearbox. Drain excess if necessary.
2. The differential seals need to be replaced.
Automatic transmission (AT)
Procedures for diagnosing the electronic transmission control system and fault codes are given in the Chapter Engine electrical equipment.
Due to the complexity of the AT design, it is advisable to diagnose its malfunctions and repair components in a car service workshop or a representative office of Opel.
General problems associated with the functioning of the switching mechanism
1. The number of failures associated with a violation of the adjustment of the shift rod includes the following:
- The engine can be started in transmission positions other than «R» (parking) And «N» (neutral);
- The transmission position indicator reading is different from the actual gear selected;
- The vehicle is moving with the transmission in position «R» or «N»;
- Transfers are switched with difficulty or arbitrarily.
Adjust the shift rod (see chapter Manual transmission).
Transmission slips, shifts hard, makes strange noises or does not move the car when set to one of the forward or reverse gears
There are many possible causes of the problems listed in the title, but only one of them falls under the competence of an amateur mechanic - the wrong level of transmission fluid.
Before driving the car to a car service workshop, check the level and condition of the transmission fluid (see chapter Current service). Correct the level in accordance with the requirements of the Specifications or change the fluid along with the filter. If the situation does not improve, seek help from specialists.
Transmission fluid leaks
AT fluid has a dark red color. Traces of its leaks should not be confused with traces of impellent oil, which can be carried to the transmission crankcase by the oncoming air flow.
To identify and locate the source of the leak, first remove all traces of dirt and grease from the transmission boat. Use a suitable degreaser and/or steam clean. Then drive the car for a short trip at low speed (so that traces of the leak are not carried away by the oncoming flow far from its source). Stop, jack up the vehicle and locate the source of the leak by visual inspection. Most often these are:
- Transmission sump: Tighten mounting bolts and/or replace sump gasket;
- Fluid Fill Tube: Replace the rubber seal where the tube enters the transmission case;
- Transmission Fluid Lines: Tighten fittings or replace lines;
- Vent tube: Transmission overfilled and/or water ingested.
The oil is brown or smells of burning
1. Low liquid level in the box (see chapter Current service)
Kickdown mode won't turn on (when fully depressing the gas pedal does not engage downshift)
1. Low liquid level in the box (see chapter Current service)
2. Malfunction in the engine management system (see Electronic ignition control system (and injection) gasoline engines and Diesel engine fuel preheating and heating systems Chapters Engine electrical equipment)
3. Malfunction of the sensor or its wiring (see chapter automatic transmission)
4. Adjustment of a cable of the selector is broken (see chapter automatic transmission)
The engine does not start in any selector position or starts in any position other than P and R
1. The adjustment of the sensor-switch of permission to start is broken (see chapter automatic transmission)
2. Malfunction in the engine management system (see Electronic ignition control system (and injection) gasoline engines and Diesel engine fuel preheating and heating systems Chapters Engine electrical equipment)
3. The adjustment of the selector cable is broken (see chapter automatic transmission)
Clutch slips, jerks or noises occur when shifting gears; Vehicle does not move when D or R is engaged
1. Low liquid level in the box (see chapter Current service)
2. Malfunction of the selector position sensor or its wiring (see chapter automatic transmission)
3. Malfunction in the engine management system (see Electronic ignition control system (and injection) gasoline engines and Diesel engine fuel preheating and heating systems Chapters Engine electrical equipment)
Bridges
Extraneous noise
1. Ordinary road noise. Not subject to correction.
2. Tire noise. Check the condition of the treads and tire inflation pressure.
3. Worn or damaged wheel bearings or loose torque.
Vibrations
1. Check the condition of the wheel bearings by alternately jacking up the corresponding one from the corners of the car and rotating the wheel manually. Listen for sounds coming from the bearing. Remove the bearings and check their condition.
Oil leaks
1. Damaged drive shaft seals (see chapter Clutch and drive shafts).
Brake system
Before concluding that there is a problem with the braking system, check that the tires are in good condition and inflated to the correct pressure, that the front wheel alignment is not out of alignment, and that the vehicle is not loaded unevenly.
Increased foot brake pedal travel
1. Brake circuit failed. Check if brake fluid is leaking.
The foot brake pedal has an excessively soft stroke and falls through
1. Brake circuit got air. Pump the system.
2. The liquid level in the GTZ tank has dropped. Add fresh brake fluid, bleed the system.
3. Vapor locks form in the brake lines. It manifests itself mainly during frequent intensive braking. Change the brake fluid, remove air from the system.
Braking occurs with insufficient efficiency, the foot brake pedal fails
1. The tightness of the brake path is broken. Check the tightness of the corresponding fittings, replace the defective components.
2. Cuffs in the main or wheel cylinders are damaged. Check and replace defective components. Check the condition of the internal components of the GTZ, if necessary, replace the cylinder.
3. Damaged piston seal. Repair the caliper.
4. Friction linings of pads are oiled. Check and replace brake pads.
5. Wrong or hardened pads installed. Replace pads.
6. Faulty brake booster servo. Check brake booster, make necessary repairs/replacements.
7. Worn brake pads. Replace pads.
When braking, directional stability is violated, the car pulls to the side
1. Tire pressure not correct. Check and correct tire pressure.
2. Tires are unevenly worn. Replace worn tires.
3. Friction linings of pads are oiled. Check and replace brake pads.
4. Different brake pads are installed on the same axle. Replace pads.
5. Brake pads worn out. Replace pads.
6. Contaminated caliper shafts. Clean the guides and seating surfaces of the pads in the caliper.
7. Corroded brake caliper cylinders. Replace the appropriate caliper.
8. Unevenly worn pads. Replace brake pads (on both wheels).
Sticky brakes (braking occurs spontaneously)
1. The compensation hole in the main brake cylinder is clogged. Clean the GTZ, replace the failed internal elements.
2. Excessively small gap between the drive rod and the piston of the main brake cylinder. Check clearance, make necessary corrections.
Brakes overheat while driving
1. The compensation hole in the main brake cylinder is clogged. Clean the GTZ, replace the failed internal elements.
2. Excessively small gap between the drive rod and the piston of the main brake cylinder. Check clearance, make necessary corrections.
Vibrations occur during braking
1. Wrong pads installed. Replace pads, install original Opel pads.
2. The brake disc is corroded in places. Carefully sand the brake disc.
3. The brake disc has lateral runout. Repair or replace the disk.
Brake pads do not move away from the brake disc, the wheel is difficult to turn by hand
1. Corroded brake caliper cylinders. Repair the caliper, possibly replace it.
Uneven pad wear
1. Wrong pads installed. Replace pads, install original Opel pads.
2. The caliper is dirty. Clean out the caliper shaft.
3. The piston stroke is difficult. Eliminate the interference.
4. The tightness of the brake path is broken. Check and eliminate the causes of detected leaks.
Wedge-shaped brake pad wear
1. The parallelism of the caliper installation relative to the brake disc is broken. Check the contact surfaces of the caliper.
2. Calipers are corroded. Eliminate contamination.
3. The piston is out of order. Check the position of the piston, make the necessary corrections.
Screeching brakes
1. Brake squealing is often caused by weathering (air humidity). If a creak appears after a long stay in high humidity and then disappears, nothing needs to be done.
2. Wrong pads installed. Replace the pads, install original Opel pads, cover the base plates with anti-squeak paste.
3. The parallelism of the caliper installation relative to the brake disc is broken. Check the contact surfaces of the caliper.
4. The caliper shaft is dirty. Clear the mine.
5. The springs for fastening the pads are bent. Replace springs.
Pedal pulsation occurs during braking
1. Normal response of the brake circuit to ABS activation.
2. The lateral runout of the brake disc is excessive, or the thickness tolerance is violated. Change the amount of runout and disc thickness. Burn the disc or replace it.
3. The brake disc does not rotate parallel to the caliper. Check the contact surface of the caliper.
The ABS warning light comes on while driving
1. Supply voltage dropped (below 10 V). Check voltage. Check if the generator control lamp goes out after starting the engine. If everything is in order, check the condition and tension of the alternator drive V-belt.
2. Serviceability of functioning of ABS is broken. Evaluate the quality of the contact connections, check the reliability of the grounding of the hydraulic modulator return pump to ground.
Suspension and steering
Ruined stability (vehicle pulls to one side while driving)
1. Tires are unevenly inflated.
2. There is a tire defect.
3. Excessively worn suspension or steering components (see chapter Suspension and steering).
4. Front wheel alignment required.
5. Stuck front brakes (see chapter Brake system).
There are jerks, jerks or vibrations
1. The wheel balance is broken, or the ovality of the discs has appeared. Have the tire balanced at a tire shop.
2. Worn wheel bearings, loose torque, or misaligned preload (see chapter Suspension and steering).
3. Worn or damaged shock absorbers or other suspension components (see chapter Suspension and steering).
There is excessive rocking of the vehicle or «burying» his nose when cornering or braking
1. Defective shock absorbers. Replace the whole set (see chapter Suspension and steering).
2. Broken or loose coil springs and/or other suspension components. Revise (see chapter Suspension and steering).
Steering wheel too tight
1. The fluid level in the reservoir of the power steering system has dropped excessively (see chapter Suspension and steering).
2. Tires not properly inflated.
3. Insufficiently lubricated steering gear joints (see chapter Suspension and steering).
4. The adjustment of the angles of installation of the front wheels is broken.
5. The hydraulic booster does not develop the required power.
There is excessive steering play
1. The tightening force of the front wheel bearings has weakened (see chapter Suspension and steering).
2. Excessively worn suspension or steering components (see chapter Suspension and steering).
The power steering system does not develop the proper force
1. The steering pump drive belt is worn or damaged, or its tension is not adjusted (see chapter Suspension and steering).
2. Hydraulic fluid level too low (see chapter Suspension and steering).
3. The patency of the lines of the hydraulic system is broken. Check and make appropriate replacements if necessary.
4. Air has entered the hydraulic system. Bleed the system (see chapter Suspension and steering).
Excessive tread wear (not in one area)
1. Tires not properly inflated.
2. The wheels are out of balance. Contact a tire shop.
3. Damaged wheel rims. Check and replace if necessary.
4. Excessively worn suspension or steering components (see chapter Suspension and steering).
Excessive tread wear on outer edge
1. Tires not properly inflated.
2. Too sharp turns are made. Reduce your speed.
3. The adjustment of the angles of installation of the front wheels is broken (excessive convergence). Contact a workshop for professional adjustment.
4. Bent or twisted suspension arm (see chapter Suspension and steering).
Excessive tread wear on the inside edge
1. Tires not properly inflated.
2. The adjustment of the angles of installation of the front wheels is broken (divergence). Carry out the adjustment at a car service workshop.
3. Steering components damaged or loose (see chapter Suspension and steering).
There is localized tread wear
1. The wheels are out of balance.
2. Damaged or bent discs. Check and replace if necessary.
3. There is a tire defect.
Wiper blade defects
Slippage
1. The rubber working elements of the brushes are dirty. Clean the elements with a stiff nylon brush using a detergent solution / wipe the elements with alcohol.
2. The edges of the brushes are frayed, the rubber working elements are worn or torn. Replace items.
3. The working elements of the brushes are covered with cracks resulting from the aging of rubber. Replace items.
In the cleaning field, the remaining water immediately collects in drops
1. The windshield is dirty with varnish or oil. Wipe the windshield with a clean rag moistened with a special agent to remove traces of grease, oil, silicones.
There is a noticeable difference in the quality of glass cleaning when the brush moves in opposite directions
1. There is a one-sided defect in the base of the rubber working element. Replace element.
2. The tightness of the brush to the glass surface is broken as a result of twisting the wiper arm. Correct the position of the lever accordingly.
Uncleaned sectors remain on the glass
1. The working element of the brush fell out of the mounting frame. Fix the element.
2. The tightness of the brush to the glass surface is broken as a result of deformation of the spring bars or plates. Replace brush.
This kind of violation most often occurs as a result of a careless attitude to the installation of the brush.
3. The lever does not provide sufficient brush pressure to the glass. Lightly lubricate the wiper arm pivots and springs, replace the arms if necessary.
Tire defects
Uniform bilateral tread wear
1. Insufficient tire inflation pressure.
Excessive uniform wear of the middle part of the tread
1. Excessively high tire inflation pressure.
Uneven tread wear
1. There is a static or dynamic imbalance of the wheels, or excessive lateral runout of the rim.
Uneven wear of the middle part of the tread
1. The result of wheel blocking during heavy braking.
2. The static balance of the wheel assembly is broken.
Sawtooth wear of the tread, often accompanied by a gap in the fabric base that is invisible during external examination
1. The result of overloading the car. Carefully examine the condition of the inner surface of the tire.
Flaking on tread edges
1. The adjustment of the wheel alignment angles is broken.
2. The tire is worn out.
3. The result of the wear of the rear shock absorbers (rear wheels).
Burr formation on one side of the front wheel tread
1. Adjustment of a convergence of wheels is broken.
2. The tire is worn out.
3. The result of frequent movement on undulating terrain (grater).
4. The result of neglecting the requirement to slow down when cornering.
Cord breaks that only show up on the inside of the tire at first
1. The result of collisions with the rails and the edges of the curbstones.
One-sided tread wear
1. Camber adjustment is broken.
2. Serviceability of functioning of ABS is broken. Check the reliability of grounding of the hydraulic modulator assembly return pump.
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