Car fault diagnostics (Opel Frontera A)

This Section offers the simplest scheme for identifying the causes of malfunctions and failures occurring in vehicle units and systems. Failures and their possible causes are divided into groups according to their relation to certain components or systems of the vehicle, such as the engine, cooling system, etc. In addition, the text provides references to Chapters and Sections related to these problems.

Remember that successfully completing a troubleshooting task is not a black art reserved for experienced professional mechanics, but rather a combination of knowledge and a patient, systematic approach to problem solving. You should always move from simple to complex, bring each check to its logical conclusion and try not to miss obvious facts - anyone can forget to fill the fuel tank or leave the lights on overnight.

Finally, you should always try to get a clear picture of how the problem is progressing and take appropriate steps to prevent a recurrence. If the electrical equipment failure occurred due to poor contact quality, check the condition of all other contacts and electrical connectors in the system at the same time. If the same fuse continues to blow several times in a row, there is no point in replacing it further - you need to try to find out the reason for the failure. Remember that failure of a minor component may be a sign of a malfunction of a more important unit or the entire system.

Engine

1. The engine does not turn when trying to start it

1. There is corrosion of the battery terminals or the fastening of the wire tips to them has become loose. Check the condition of the terminals and tips. Tighten the terminal clamps and remove any traces of corrosion if necessary.

2. The battery is low or faulty. If the battery cable ends are found to be clean and securely connected to the battery terminals, turn the ignition switch to the ON position, then turn on the headlights and/or windshield wipers. If this electrical equipment does not function, the battery is discharged.

3. The transmission is not properly set to position "P" (AT) or to neutral (manual transmission), or the clutch is not fully depressed.

4. The wiring in the starting system circuit is broken or the wires are loose at the terminals. Check the condition of the wires, terminals and electrical connectors of the battery, starter solenoid and ignition switch.

5. The starter gear is jammed in the flywheel ring gear. On models equipped with a manual transmission, set it to gear and, pushing the car manually, turn the engine over. Remove the starter at the earliest opportunity and check the condition of the pinion and flywheel ring gear.

6. The starter traction relay is faulty (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).

7. The starter is faulty (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).

8. The ignition switch is faulty.

2. The engine turns over but does not start

1. The fuel tank is empty.

2. There is a malfunction in the fuel injection system (Chapter Power and exhaust systems).



3. The battery is discharged (the engine turns over too slowly). Check the operation of electrical equipment (see previous Section).

4. The battery terminal connections have corroded or become loose (see previous Section).

5. The fuel pump is faulty (Chapter Power and exhaust systems).

6. Damaged or excessively damp ignition system components (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).

7. Spark plugs are worn or faulty, or the spark plug gap is set incorrectly (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).

8. The wiring of the electrical circuit of the starting system is broken or disconnected, or the fastening of the wires at the terminals is loose (see previous Section).

9. The ignition coil circuit wiring is broken or disconnected, or the wires are loose at the coil terminals (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).

3. The starter operates without turning the engine

1. The starter gear is jammed. Remove the starter (Chapter Engine electrical equipment) and check its condition.

2. The starter gear teeth or flywheel ring gear are worn or damaged.

4. Difficulty starting a cold engine

1. The battery is discharged or not sufficiently charged.

2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power supply system or electrical equipment (Chapters Power and exhaust systems and Engine electrical equipment).

5. Difficulty starting a hot engine

1. Air filter blocked (Chapter Power and exhaust systems).

2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power supply system or electrical equipment (Chapters Power and exhaust systems and Engine electrical equipment).



3. Fuel does not reach the injection system injectors (Chapter Power and exhaust systems).

6. The starter engages too noisily or with difficulty

1. The starter gear teeth or flywheel ring gear are worn or damaged.

2. The starter mounting bolts are missing or their tightening force has weakened.

7. The engine starts but immediately stalls

1. The electrical wiring is faulty or the wires on the terminals of the distributor, coil or generator are loose.

2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power supply system or electrical equipment (Chapters Power and exhaust systems and Engine electrical equipment).

3. There are losses of vacuum through the gasket surfaces of the intake manifold or fuel injection unit. Make sure that the mounting bolts/nuts are securely tightened, check the fact and quality of fastening on your fittings on the intake manifold of all vacuum hoses. Check the condition of the hoses and whether they are connected correctly (specifically to your fittings).

8. The stability of the engine operation at idle speed is impaired

1. There are losses of vacuum. Make sure that the mounting bolts/nuts are securely tightened, check the fact and quality of fastening on your fittings on the intake manifold of all vacuum hoses. Listen to the running engine using a stethoscope or a section of fuel hose. The presence of a hissing sound will help identify the source of the vacuum "leak". A solution of soapy water can be used for testing no less effectively.

2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power supply system or electrical equipment (Chapters Power and exhaust systems and Engine electrical equipment).



3. The crankcase ventilation system valve is blocked (Chapter Engine).

4. Air filter blocked (Chapter Power and exhaust systems).

5. The fuel pump does not supply sufficient fuel to the injection system injectors (Chapter Power and exhaust systems).

6. There are leaks through the cylinder head gasket. Measure the compression pressure in the engine cylinders.

7. The working projections of the camshaft lobes are worn out (Chapter Engine).

9. There are misfires when the engine is idling

1. Spark plugs are worn or dirty, or the gap is incorrectly set (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).

2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power supply system or electrical equipment (Chapters Power and exhaust systems and Engine electrical equipment).

3. Spark plug wires are faulty (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).

4. There are losses of vacuum in the intake manifold or through hose connections (Section 8).

5. Insufficient or unevenly distributed compression pressure in the cylinders. Perform a compression test (Chapter Engine).

10. There are misfires when the car is moving in gear

1. The fuel filter is blocked or the fuel system is contaminated (Chapter Power and exhaust systems).

2. Spark plugs are faulty, dirty or the gap is set incorrectly (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).

3. There is a malfunction of the components of the power supply system or electrical equipment (Chapters Power and exhaust systems and Engine electrical equipment).

4. There is a defect in the spark plug wires (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).



5. Insufficient or uneven distribution of compression pressure between cylinders. Remove the spark plugs and measure the compression pressure (Chapter Engine).

6. The ignition system is faulty (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).

7. There are vacuum losses at the throttle body, intake manifold or through vacuum hoses (see Section 8).

11. The engine stalls

1. Idle speed adjustment is out of order.

2. The fuel filter is blocked and/or moisture or dirt has entered the fuel system (Chapter Power and exhaust systems).

3. There is a failure of power supply components or sensors (Chapter Power and exhaust systems).

4. Spark plugs are faulty, dirty or the gap is set incorrectly (Chapter Routine care and maintenance). Also check the condition of the spark plug wires (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).

5. There are losses of vacuum at the throttle body or through vacuum hoses.

12. There is a decrease in engine power

1. There is a malfunction of the components of the power supply system or electrical equipment (Chapters Power and exhaust systems and Engine electrical equipment).

2. Excessive play in the distributor shaft. At the same time, check the condition of the runner, cover, wires, etc. (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).

3. The spark plugs are faulty or the spark plug gap is set incorrectly (Chapter Routine care and maintenance).

4. The ignition coil is faulty (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).

5. The AT fluid level does not meet the requirements (Chapter Manual gearbox).

6. Clutch slips (Chapter Cardan shafts, main gear).



7. The fuel filter is blocked and/or dirt/moisture has entered the fuel system (Chapter Power and exhaust systems).

8. The wrong type of fuel was filled in. Fill the tank with fuel of the required octane rating.

9. Insufficient or uneven distribution of compression pressure between cylinders. Perform a compression test, the results of which can be analyzed to identify valve leaks and/or a cylinder head gasket leak (Chapter Engine).

13. There are pops in the carburetor/shots in the exhaust system

1. There is a malfunction of the components of the power supply system or electrical equipment (Chapters Power and exhaust systems and Engine electrical equipment).

2. There is a defect in the secondary circuit of the ignition system (destruction of spark plug insulators or defects in spark plug wires) (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).

3. The fuel injection system needs adjustment or its components are excessively worn (Chapter Power and exhaust systems).

4. There are vacuum losses at the throttle body, intake manifold or through vacuum hoses (see Section 8).

5. Valves are stuck (Chapter Engine).

6. The order of connecting the spark plug wires is violated (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).

14. When accelerating or driving uphill, sounds of mixture detonation occur

1. The wrong type of fuel was filled in. Fill the tank with fuel of the required octane rating.

2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power supply system or electrical equipment (Chapters Power and exhaust systems and Engine electrical equipment).



3. The wrong type of spark plugs have been installed. Check the spark plugs and their wires for damage (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).

4. There are losses of vacuum.

15. Pre-ignition takes place (the engine continues to run after the ignition is turned off)

1. Idle speed is too high (Chapter Engine).

2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power supply system or electrical equipment (Chapters Power and exhaust systems and Engine electrical equipment).

3. Engine operating temperature is excessive. Possible causes of this violation may be a decrease in the coolant level (Chapter Cooling and heating systems), thermostat failure, radiator blockage, or water pump failure (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).

16. The battery does not hold a charge

1. The alternator drive belt is worn or damaged, or its tension adjustment is incorrect (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).

2. The electrolyte level is insufficient or the battery is very discharged (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).

3. There is corrosion of the battery terminals or the fastening of the wire tips to them has become loose (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).

4. The generator does not provide the required charging current (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).

5. The charging circuit wiring is broken or otherwise damaged, or the wires are loose at the terminals (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).

6. A short circuit in the wiring creates a constant leakage of current generated by the battery to ground (see chapter Engine electrical equipment and Electrical equipment diagrams).

7. There is an internal battery defect.

17. The ignition indicator lamp does not go out

1. There is a fault in the charging circuit or generator (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).

2. The alternator drive belt is damaged or worn out, or its tension adjustment is incorrect (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).

18. The ignition indicator lamp does not light when the ignition key is turned to the "on" position (when the ignition is turned on)

1. The control lamp on the instrument panel has burned out or otherwise failed (Chapter On-board electrical equipment).

2. The generator is faulty (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).

3. There is a defect in the printed circuit board, the wiring inside the instrument cluster unit, or the lamp socket (Chapter On-board electrical equipment).

Power supply system

Engine electrical equipment

19. Excessive fuel consumption

1. The air filter element is dirty or blocked (Chapter Power and exhaust systems).

2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power supply system or electrical equipment (Chapters Power and exhaust systems and Engine electrical equipment).

3. Insufficient tire pressure or incorrect size tires installed.

20. There are fuel leaks and/or a smell of gasoline

1. There are leaks in the fuel supply lines or vent lines (Chapter Power and exhaust systems).

2. The fuel tank is full. Fill only until the gun switches off automatically.

3. There are leaks of vapors from the power supply lines (Chapter Power and exhaust systems).

Cooling system

21. Overheating

1. Not enough coolant in the system (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).

2. The water pump drive belt is worn or damaged, or its tension is not adjusted correctly (Chapter Engine).

3. The internal radiator channels are blocked or the radiator grille is dirty (obstructed) (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).

4. The thermostat is faulty (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).

5. Broken or cracked fan blades (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).

6. The radiator cap does not hold pressure. Perform a pressure test on the lid (contact a service station).

22. Hypothermia

1. The thermostat is faulty (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).

2. The temperature meter readings are inaccurate.

23. External coolant leaks

1. The hoses are damaged or destroyed as a result of aging of the material, or their fastening on the fittings has become loose. Replace the hoses and/or tighten the clamps that secure them (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).

2. The water pump seals are damaged. In this case, the coolant will leak out through the inspection hole in the pump body (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).

3. There are leaks from the internal channels of the radiator or side tank. Professional radiator repair is required (for a description of the removal procedure, see. in the chapter Engine).

4. There are leaks through the engine drain plug (Chapter Engine) or squeeze plugs of water galleries (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).

24. Internal coolant leaks

Note: Internal coolant leaks are usually detected by checking the condition of the engine oil. Inspect the dipstick blade and the inside surfaces of the cylinder cover(s) for traces of water and oil foaming.

1. There are leaks through the cylinder head gasket. Perform a pressure test of the cooling system.

2. There are cracks in the cylinder walls or in the head casting. To check, disassemble the engine (Chapter Engine).

25. Coolant losses occur

1. Too much coolant has been added to the system (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).

2. The coolant boils away as a result of engine overheating.

3. There are internal or external coolant leaks.

4. The radiator cap is faulty. Pressure test the lid.

26. Coolant circulation is disrupted

1. The water pump is not functioning properly. The easiest way to check that the pump is functioning is to pinch the upper radiator hose while the engine is idling. If you feel a jolt of liquid inside the hose when you release it, the pump is functioning properly (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).

2. The flow of the cooling system is impaired. Drain the coolant, flush the system and refill it with fresh mixture (Chapter Cooling and heating systems). If such a need arises, remove the radiator (Chapter Cooling and heating systems) and perform a reverse flow flush.

3. The water pump drive belt is worn or damaged, or its tension is not adjusted correctly (Chapter Engine).

4. Thermostat is stuck (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).

Clutch

27. The clutch does not disengage (the manual transmission control lever does not move freely into reverse gear and back when the clutch pedal is pressed to the floor)

1. The clutch disc is bent or damaged (Chapter Cardan shafts, main gear).

28. The clutch is slipping (engine speed increases without increasing vehicle speed)

1. The clutch disc is contaminated with oil or its friction linings are worn out. Remove the clutch (Chapter Cardan shafts, main gear) and check the condition of its components.

2. The clutch disc has not been properly worn in. It may take 30 to 40 normal vehicle starts to fully break in a new disc.

3. Worn pressure plate/clutch basket (Chapter Cardan shafts, main gear).

29. When the clutch is engaged, there is a strong vibration

1. The clutch disc is oily. Remove the clutch (Chapter Cardan shafts, main gear) and check the condition of its components. Repair any leaks found.

2. The splines of the driven disk hub are worn out (clutch disc). Remove the clutch (Chapter Cardan shafts, main gear) and check the condition of its components.

3. The pressure plate/clutch basket or flywheel is bent. Remove the clutch (Chapter Cardan shafts, main gear) and check the condition of its components and flywheel.

30. A squealing or rattling noise occurs when the clutch is fully engaged (pedal released)

1. The clutch release bearing is jammed. Remove the clutch (Chapter Cardan shafts, main gear) and check the condition of the bearing. Remove all burrs and nicks and lubricate the bearing before installing it in place.

31. A squealing or rattling noise occurs when the clutch is fully disengaged (the pedal is pressed)

1. The release bearing is worn or damaged (Chapter Cardan shafts, main gear).

2. Worn or damaged springs (or aperture blades) pressure plate in the clutch basket (Chapter Cardan shafts, main gear).

32. The clutch pedal remains depressed to the floor after it is released

1. The rod or release bearing is jammed. Check the condition of the traction, remove the clutch components if necessary.

2. Make sure the correct type of pedal stop is installed.

Manual transmission (MT)

33. When the gearbox is in neutral, extraneous noises occur while the engine is running

1. The input shaft bearing is worn out.

2. The bearing of the driven shaft pinion is damaged.

3. The intermediate shaft bearings are worn out.

4. The intermediate shaft axial play adjustment washers are worn or damaged.

34. Extraneous noises occur in any position of the manual transmission

1. Any of the above reasons and/or:

2. There is not enough transmission oil in the gearbox (his level dropped).

35. Extraneous noises occur in a particular gear

1. The gear teeth of this transmission are worn, damaged or chipped.

2. The synchronizer of this gear is worn or damaged.

36. The gearbox "jumps" out of the highest gear

1. The gearbox mount on the clutch dome has become loose.

2. Dirt has gotten between the gearbox housing and the engine, or the gearbox has shifted relative to the engine.

37. Complications arise when shifting gears

1. The clutch is not fully depressed (disengaged).

2. The shift rod is damaged, loosened, or out of adjustment. Perform a thorough check of the condition of the components and replace any defective ones if necessary.

38. There are transmission oil leaks

1. There is too much transmission oil in the gearbox. Drain off excess if necessary.

2. The differential seals or the speedometer drive gear seal need to be replaced.

Bridges

39. Extraneous noises

1. Normal road noise. They cannot be adjusted.

2. Tire noise. Check the condition of the treads and the inflation pressure of the tires.

3. The rear wheel bearings are worn or damaged, or their tightening force has weakened.

40. Vibrations

1. Check the condition of the rear wheel bearings by jacking up the appropriate corners of the car one by one and rotating the wheel manually. Listen to the sounds coming from the bearing.

2. Remove the bearings and check their condition.

41. Oil leaks

1. The drive shaft seals are damaged (Chapter Cardan shafts, main gear).

Brake system

Caution: Before coming to a final conclusion about the presence of problems with the braking system, make sure that the tires are in satisfactory condition and inflated to the required pressure, the front wheel alignment is not disturbed, and the vehicle is not loaded unevenly.

42. When braking, the car "pulls" to one side

1. The brake pads/shoes on one side of the vehicle are damaged or contaminated with oil. Check the condition of the pads/shoes (Chapter Brake system).

2. There is excessive wear of the friction material of the brake pads/shoes on one side of the vehicle (Chapter Brake system).

3. Suspension components have become loose or disconnected. Check the condition of the component supports, tighten the fasteners with the required force (Chapter Suspension and steering).

4. The drum/caliper assembly of one of the brake mechanisms is faulty. Remove the drum or caliper and inspect it for signs of piston seizure or other damage (Chapter Brake system).

5. The sliding blocks of the floating calipers of the front disc brake mechanism are unevenly lubricated. Remove the caliper and lubricate the sliders (Chapter Brake system).

43. There are extraneous sounds (high frequency squeal) when braking the car

1. The disc brake pads are worn out. Replace the pads immediately (in both mechanisms) (Chapter Brake system). If the brake pad linings are completely worn out, you should also check the condition of the brake discs (Chapter Brake system).

2. The friction linings are dirty or oily. Replace the pads/shoes.

3. The wrong type of brake pads are installed. Make a replacement.

44. Excessive brake pedal travel

1. There is a partial failure of the braking system. Check the entire system (Chapter Brake system), make the necessary corrections.

2. The brake fluid level in the master cylinder is insufficient. Check the level (Chapter Brake system), if necessary, top up and bleed the system (Chapter Brake system).

3. The rear brake adjustment is out of adjustment. Perform a series of braking operations while reversing the vehicle. If this does not help to eliminate the fault, remove the drums and check the condition of the self-adjusting mechanisms (Chapter Brake system).

45. When pressing the brake pedal, there is a feeling of softness

1. Air has entered the hydraulic system. Bleed the brakes (Chapter Brake system).

2. Flexible brake hoses are faulty. Check the condition of all hoses and lines in the system. Replace components if necessary.

3. The fastener of the brake master cylinder has become loose.

4. The master cylinder is faulty (Chapter Brake system).

46. To brake a car, you need to apply excessive force to the pedal

1. The brake booster is not functioning properly (Chapter Brake system).

2. The brake pads/shoe linings are excessively worn. Check and replace if necessary (Chapter Brake system).

3. One or more caliper pistons or wheel cylinders are seized. Check and make any necessary corrections (Chapter Brake system).

4. The friction linings of the brake pads/shoes are contaminated with oil, grease or brake fluid. Check and replace if necessary (Chapter Brake system).

5. New pads/shoes have been installed and have not yet been broken in. It will take some time for them to become accustomed to the discs/drums.

(Text was copied from the portal: opelbook)

47. The pedal is pressed to the floor with minimal resistance

1. As a result of wheel cylinder leaks, caliper piston leaks, loose fastenings, disconnected or damaged brake lines, etc., the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir has dropped excessively. Check the entire system and make any necessary corrections.

2. The sealing cuffs of the brake master cylinder are worn out (Chapter Brake system).

48. There is pulsation in the brake pedal when braking the car

1. The caliper does not move properly due to improper installation or an obstruction. Remove and check (Chapter Brake system).

2. The disc or drum is faulty. Take off (Chapter Brake system) and check for excessive lateral runout, as well as ovality and out-of-flatness. Resurface the disc or drum or replace them with new ones.

Suspension and steering

49. The car pulls to one side when moving

1. The tires are unevenly inflated.

2. There is a defect in the tires.

3. Excessively worn suspension or steering components (Chapter Suspension and steering).

4. It is necessary to adjust the front wheel alignment angles.

5. The front brakes are seized (Chapter Brake system).

50. There is jerking, twitching or vibration

1. The wheels are out of balance or the rims are out of ovality. Have the wheel balanced at a tire shop.

2. The rear wheel bearings are worn out, their tightening force has weakened, or their adjustment is out of order (Chapter Suspension and steering).

3. Shock absorbers or other suspension components are worn or damaged (Chapter Suspension and steering).

51. There is excessive rocking of the car or "digging" of the nose when turning or braking

1. The shock absorbers are faulty. Replace the entire kit (Chapter Suspension and steering).

2. Broken or weakened springs and/or other suspension components. Perform a component status check (Chapter Suspension and steering).

52. The steering wheel is too hard to turn

1. The fluid level in the power steering reservoir has dropped excessively (Chapter Brake system).

2. The tires are not inflated correctly.

3. The steering linkage joints are not sufficiently lubricated (Chapter Suspension and steering).

4. The front wheel alignment angles are out of adjustment.

5. The power steering does not develop the required power.

53. There is excessive play in the steering

1. The tightening force of the front wheel bearings has weakened (Chapter Suspension and steering).

2. Excessively worn suspension or steering components (Chapter Suspension and steering).

54. There is excessive wear on the treads (not in one particular area)

1. The tires are not inflated correctly.

2. Wheel balance is disturbed. Contact a tire shop.

3. The wheel rims are damaged. Check and replace if necessary.

4. Excessively worn suspension or steering components (Chapter Suspension and steering).

55. There is excessive wear on the outer edge of the treads

1. The tires are not inflated correctly.

2. The turns are made too sharply. Reduce speed.

3. The front wheel alignment angles are out of adjustment (excessive convergence). Contact a workshop for professional adjustment.

4. Bent or twisted suspension arm (Chapter Suspension and steering).

56. There is excessive wear on the inner edge of the treads

1. The tires are not inflated correctly.

2. The front wheel alignment angles are out of adjustment (divergence). Make adjustments at a car service workshop.

3. Steering components are damaged or loose (Chapter Suspension and steering).

57. There is local wear of the tread

1. Wheel balance is disturbed.

2. The discs are damaged or bent. Check and replace if necessary.

3. There is a defect in the tires.