Remember that successfully completing a root cause troubleshooting is not black magic reserved for experienced professional mechanics, but is determined by a combination of specific knowledge and a patient, systematic approach to investigating the problem. You should always move from simple to complex, bring each check to its logical conclusion and try not to miss obvious facts - anyone can forget to fill the fuel tank or leave lights on at night.
Finally, you should always try to get a clear picture of the development of the malfunction and take appropriate steps to prevent recurrence. If the failure of the electrical equipment occurred due to a violation of the quality of the contact, check at the same time the condition of all other contacts and electrical connectors of the system. If the same fuse continues to blow several times in a row, there is no point in replacing it further - you must try to find out the cause of the failure. Remember that the failure of a minor component may be a sign of a malfunction of a more important node or the entire system.
Engine
1. The engine does not turn when trying to start it
1. The battery terminals are corroded or the wire lugs are loose on them. Check the condition of the terminals and lugs. Tighten the terminal clamps, if necessary, remove traces of corrosion.
2. The battery is discharged or defective. If the wire lugs are found clean and securely attached to the battery terminals, turn the ignition key to the ON position, then turn on the headlights and/or windshield wipers. If this electrical equipment does not function, the battery is dead.
3. Transmission poorly set to position "R" (AT) or into neutral (RKPP), or the clutch is not fully depressed.
4. The wiring in the starting system circuit is broken or the wires are loose at the terminals. Check the condition of the wires, terminals and electrical connectors of the battery, the starter traction relay and the ignition switch.
5. The starter gear is wedged in the flywheel ring gear. On models equipped with a manual transmission, put it in gear and, manually pushing it into the car, turn its engine over. At the first opportunity, remove the starter and check the condition of the gear and flywheel ring gear.
6. Faulty starter relay (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).
7. Faulty starter (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).
8. Faulty ignition switch.
2. Engine turns over but does not start
1. Empty fuel tank.
2. There is a malfunction in the fuel injection system (Chapter Power and exhaust systems).
3. Low battery (engine cranks too slowly). Check the functioning of the electrical equipment (see previous Section).
4. Battery terminal connections are corroded or loose (see previous Section).
5. Faulty fuel pump (Chapter Power and exhaust systems).
6. Damaged or excessively wet ignition system components (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).
7. Worn or defective spark plugs or incorrectly set spark plug gap (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).
8. Broken or disconnected wiring of the electric circuit of the starting system or loosened fastening of the wires on the terminals (see previous Section).
9. Broken or disconnected ignition coil circuit wiring or loose wires at coil terminals (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).
3. The starter functions without cranking the engine
1. Stuck starter gear. Remove the starter (Chapter Engine electrical equipment) and check its status.
2. Worn or damaged starter gear teeth or flywheel crown.
4. Difficulty starting a cold engine
1. The battery is discharged or insufficiently charged.
2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power system or electrical equipment (Chapters Power and exhaust systems and Engine electrical equipment).
5. Difficulty starting a hot engine
1. Air filter blocked (Chapter Power and exhaust systems).
2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power system or electrical equipment (Chapters Power and exhaust systems and Engine electrical equipment).
3. Fuel does not reach injection system injectors (Chapter Power and exhaust systems).
6. Starter engagement is too noisy or difficult
1. Worn or damaged starter gear teeth or flywheel crown.
2. Starter mounting bolts are missing or loose.
7. Engine starts but dies immediately
1. Faulty wiring or loose wires at the terminals of the distributor, coil or generator.
2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power system or electrical equipment (Chapters Power and exhaust systems and Engine electrical equipment).
3. Vacuum loss occurs through the sealing surfaces of the intake manifold or fuel injection unit. Make sure that the fixing bolts/nuts are securely tightened, check the fact and quality of fastening on your fittings on the inlet pipeline of all vacuum hoses. Check the condition of the hoses and the correct connection (exactly to your fittings).
8. The stability of the engine at idle is broken
1. There are vacuum losses. Make sure that the fixing bolts/nuts are securely tightened, check the fact and quality of fastening on your fittings on the inlet pipeline of all vacuum hoses. Listen to the running engine with a stethoscope or a piece of fuel hose. The presence of a hissing sound will reveal the source "leaks" vacuum. No less effective can be used for checking a solution of soapy water.
2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power system or electrical equipment (Chapters Power and exhaust systems and Engine electrical equipment).
3. Controlled crankcase ventilation valve blocked (Chapter Engine).
4. Air filter blocked (Chapter Power and exhaust systems).
5. The fuel pump does not supply enough fuel to the injection system injectors (Chapter Power and exhaust systems).
6. There are leaks from the cylinder head gasket. Measure the compression pressure in the engine cylinders.
7. Camshaft lobes worn out (Chapter Engine).
9. Misfiring occurs when the engine is idling
1. Worn or dirty spark plugs or incorrectly set spark plug gap (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).
2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power system or electrical equipment (Chapters Power and exhaust systems and Engine electrical equipment).
3. Faulty spark plug wires (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).
4. There is a loss of vacuum in the intake manifold or through the hose connections (Section 8).
5. Insufficient or unevenly distributed compression pressure in the cylinders. Take a compression test (Chapter Engine).
10. Misfiring occurs when the vehicle is in gear
1. Blocked fuel filter or contaminated fuel system (Chapter Power and exhaust systems).
2. Faulty or dirty spark plugs or incorrect spark plug gap (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).
3. There is a malfunction of the components of the power system or electrical equipment (Chapters Power and exhaust systems and Engine electrical equipment).
4. There is a defective spark plug wires (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).
5. Insufficient or unevenly distributed compression pressure between the cylinders. Remove spark plugs and measure compression pressure (Chapter Engine).
6. Faulty ignition system (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).
7. There is vacuum loss at the throttle body, intake piping, or through the vacuum hoses (see Section 8).
11. Engine stalls
1. Idle speed control broken.
2. Blocked fuel filter and/or moisture or dirt in the fuel system (Chapter Power and exhaust systems).
3. There is a failure of power system components or sensors (Chapter Power and exhaust systems).
4. Faulty or dirty spark plugs or incorrect spark plug gap (Chapter Ongoing care and maintenance). Also check the condition of the spark plug wires (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).
5. There is vacuum loss at the throttle body or through the vacuum hoses.
12. There is a decrease in engine power
1. There is a malfunction of the components of the power system or electrical equipment (Chapters Power and exhaust systems and Engine electrical equipment).
2. Excessive distributor shaft play. At the same time, check the condition of the slider, cover, wires, etc. (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).
3. Faulty spark plugs or incorrect spark plug gap (Chapter Ongoing care and maintenance).
4. Faulty ignition coil (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).
5. AT fluid level does not meet the requirements (Chapter Manual gearbox).
6. Clutch slips (Chapter Cardan shafts, final drive).
7. Blocked fuel filter and/or dirt/moisture in the fuel system (Chapter Power and exhaust systems).
8. Wrong grade of fuel filled. Fill the tank with fuel with the required octane rating.
9. Insufficient or unevenly distributed compression pressure between the cylinders. Carry out a compression test, the analysis of the results of which reveals the presence of valve leaks and / or a leak in the cylinder head gasket (Chapter Engine).
13. Pops in the carburetor / shots in the exhaust system
1. There is a malfunction of the components of the power system or electrical equipment (Chapters Power and exhaust systems and Engine electrical equipment).
2. There is a defect in the secondary circuit of the ignition system (destruction of spark plug insulators or defects in spark plug wires) (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).
3. The fuel injection system needs to be adjusted or its components are excessively worn (Chapter Power and exhaust systems).
4. There is vacuum loss at the throttle body, intake piping, or through the vacuum hoses (see Section 8).
5. Valves stuck (Chapter Engine).
6. The order of connecting spark plug wires is violated (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).
14. When driving with acceleration or uphill, there are sounds of detonation of the mixture
1. Wrong grade of fuel filled. Fill the tank with fuel with the required octane rating.
2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power system or electrical equipment (Chapters Power and exhaust systems and Engine electrical equipment).
3. Wrong type spark plugs installed. Check the spark plugs and their wires for damage (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).
4. There are vacuum losses.
15. There is a glow ignition (the engine continues to run after the ignition is turned off)
1. Excessively high idle speed (Chapter Engine).
2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power system or electrical equipment (Chapters Power and exhaust systems and Engine electrical equipment).
3. Excessive engine operating temperature. Possible causes of this violation may be a decrease in the coolant level (Chapter Cooling and heating systems), thermostat failure, radiator blockage, or water pump failure (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).
16. battery not "keeps" charge
1. The alternator drive belt is worn or damaged, or its tension is not adjusted (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).
2. Insufficient electrolyte level or severely discharged battery (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).
3. Battery terminals are corroded or wire lugs are loose (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).
4. The generator does not provide the required charge current (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).
5. Charging circuit wiring broken or otherwise damaged, or wires loose at terminals (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).
6. A short circuit in the wiring creates a permanent leakage of current generated by the battery to ground (see chapter Engine electrical equipment and Electrical equipment diagrams).
7. There is an internal defect in the battery.
17. The ignition control lamp does not go out
1. Charging circuit or alternator faulty (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).
2. Damaged or worn alternator drive belt or alternator tension adjustment (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).
18. The ignition control lamp does not light up when the ignition key is turned to the "on" (when the ignition is turned on)
1. Burnt out or otherwise failed control lamp on the instrument panel (Chapter Onboard electrical equipment).
2. Faulty generator (Chapter Engine electrical equipment).
3. There is a defect in the printed circuit board, wiring inside the instrument cluster unit or lamp socket (Chapter Onboard electrical equipment).
Supply system
Engine electrical equipment
19. Excessive fuel consumption
1. Air filter element dirty or blocked (Chapter Power and exhaust systems).
2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power system or electrical equipment (Chapters Power and exhaust systems and Engine electrical equipment).
3. Insufficient tire pressure or wrong size tires fitted.
20. Fuel leaks and/or smells of gasoline
1. There are leaks in the fuel or vent lines (Chapter Power and exhaust systems).
2. The fuel tank is full. Refuel only until the gun automatically shuts off.
3. There are vapor leaks from the power system lines (Chapter Power and exhaust systems).
Cooling system
21. Overheating
1. Not enough coolant in the system (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).
2. Worn or damaged water pump drive belt or incorrect tension adjustment (Chapter Engine).
3. The internal channels of the radiator are blocked or dirty (blocked) radiator grille (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).
4. Faulty thermostat (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).
5. Broken or cracked fan blades (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).
6. The radiator cap is not holding pressure. Perform a pressure test on the cap (contact a service station).
22. Hypothermia
1. Faulty thermostat (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).
2. Inaccurate temperature readings.
23. External coolant leaks
1. The hoses are damaged or destroyed as a result of aging of the material or their fastening on the fittings has loosened. Replace hoses and/or tighten hose clamps (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).
2. Damaged water pump seals. In this case, the coolant will seep through the control hole in the pump housing (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).
3. There are leaks from the internal channels of the radiator or side reservoir (ov). Professional Radiator Repair Needed (for a description of the removal procedure, see chapter Engine).
4. There are leaks from the engine drain plug (Chapter Engine) or squeeze plugs of water galleries (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).
24. Internal coolant leaks
Note. Internal coolant leaks are usually identified by checking the condition of the engine oil. Inspect the feeler blade and inside surfaces of the cover (lids) cylinders for traces of water and oil foaming.
1. There are leaks from the cylinder head gasket. Perform a pressure test on the cooling system.
2. There are cracks in the cylinder walls or in the head casting. Disassemble the engine to check (Chapter Engine).
25. Loss of coolant occurs
1. Too much refrigerant in the system (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).
2. The coolant boils away as a result of engine overheating.
3. There are internal or external refrigerant leaks.
4. Radiator cap defective. Check the cover with pressure.
26. Disturbed coolant circulation
1. The water pump is not functioning properly. The easiest way to verify the operation of the pump is to pinch the upper radiator hose while the engine is idling. If a push of liquid is felt inside the hose when the hose is released, the pump is functioning properly (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).
2. The patency of the cooling system is broken. Drain coolant, flush system and refill with fresh mix (Chapter Cooling and heating systems). If necessary, remove the radiator (Chapter Cooling and heating systems) and backflush it.
3. Worn or damaged water pump drive belt or incorrect tension adjustment (Chapter Engine).
4. Stuck thermostat (Chapter Cooling and heating systems).
Clutch
27. Clutch won't disengage (the manual transmission control lever does not move freely into the reverse gear position and back when the clutch pedal is depressed to the floor)
1. Bent or damaged clutch disc (Chapter Cardan shafts, final drive).
28. Clutch slips (engine speed increases without increasing vehicle speed)
1. The clutch disc is contaminated with oil or its friction linings are worn out. Remove the clutch (Chapter Cardan shafts, final drive) and check the status of its components.
2. Clutch disc not worn in properly. It may take 30 to 40 normal starts of the car to finally break in a new disc.
3. Worn pressure plate/clutch basket (Chapter Cardan shafts, final drive).
29. When the clutch is engaged, there is a strong vibration
1. Oily clutch disc. Remove the clutch (Chapter Cardan shafts, final drive) and check the status of its components. Repair any leaks found.
2. Worn disc hub splines (clutch disc). Remove the clutch (Chapter Cardan shafts, final drive) and check the status of its components.
3. Bent pressure plate/clutch basket or flywheel. Remove the clutch (Chapter Cardan shafts, final drive) and check the condition of its components and flywheel.
30. Screeching or rumbling occurs when the clutch is fully engaged (pedal released)
1. Clutch release bearing stuck. Remove the clutch (Chapter Cardan shafts, final drive) and check the condition of the bearing. Remove all burrs and nicks and lubricate the bearing before reinstalling.
31. Screech or rumble occurs when the clutch is completely disengaged (pedal depressed)
1. Worn or damaged release bearing (Chapter Cardan shafts, final drive).
2. Worn or damaged springs (or aperture blades) pressure plate in the clutch basket (Chapter Cardan shafts, final drive).
32. Clutch pedal remains depressed to the floor after releasing it
1. Stuck rod or release bearing. Check up a condition of draft, if necessary remove components of coupling.
2. Make sure the correct type of pedal stop is installed.
Manual gearbox (RKPP)
33. When the gearbox is set to neutral, extraneous noises occur during engine operation
1. Worn input shaft bearing.
2. Drive shaft bearing damaged.
3. Worn intermediate shaft bearings.
4. Worn or damaged washers for adjusting the axial play of the intermediate shaft.
34. Extraneous noises occur in any position of the gearbox
1. Any of the above reasons and/or:
2. Insufficient amount of gear oil is filled in the gearbox (his level dropped).
35. Extraneous noise occurs in any particular gear
1. Worn, damaged or chipped gear teeth of this gear.
2. Worn or damaged synchronizer of this gear.
36. Happening "jumping off" gearbox with top gear
1. Loose fastening of the box on the clutch dome.
2. Dirt has got between the gearbox boat and the engine or the gearbox has shifted in relation to the engine.
37. Complications occur when shifting gears
1. Not fully squeezed out (turned off) clutch.
2. Shift rod damaged, loose or out of adjustment. Make a thorough check of the condition of the components, if necessary, replace the defective ones.
38. Transmission oil leaks
1. The gearbox has been filled with excessive gear oil. Drain excess if necessary.
2. The differential seals or the speedometer drive gear seal need to be replaced.
Bridges
39. Extraneous noise
1. Ordinary road noise. Not subject to correction.
2. Tire noise. Check the condition of the treads and tire inflation pressure.
3. Rear wheel bearings worn or damaged or loose.
40. Vibrations
1. Check the condition of the rear wheel bearings by alternately jacking up the corresponding corner of the car and rotating the wheel manually. Listen for sounds coming from the bearing.
2. Remove the bearings and check their condition.
41. Oil leaks
1. Damaged drive shaft seals (Chapter Cardan shafts, final drive).
Brake system
Attention! Before concluding that there is a problem with the braking system, check that the tires are in good condition and inflated to the correct pressure, that the front wheel alignment is not out of alignment, and that the vehicle is not loaded unevenly.
42. Car when braking "leads away" to one side
1. Brake pads/boots from one of the sides of the vehicle are damaged or contaminated with oil. Check the condition of the pads/shoes (Chapter Brake system).
2. There is excessive wear of the friction material of the pads / shoes of the brake mechanism from one of the sides of the car (Chapter Brake system).
3. Suspension components have loosened or disconnected. Check the condition of the component supports, tighten the fasteners with the required force (Chapter Suspension and steering).
4. Defective drum / caliper assembly of one of the brake mechanisms. Remove the drum or caliper and inspect it for signs of piston seizure or other damage (Chapter Brake system).
5. The sliding calipers of the front disc brake caliper are unevenly lubricated. Remove the caliper and grease the sliders (Chapter Brake system).
43. There are extraneous sounds (high frequency squeal) when braking the car
1. Worn disc brake pads. Replace pads immediately (in both mechanisms) (Chapter Brake system). If the pad linings are completely worn out, the condition of the brake discs should also be checked (Chapter Brake system).
2. Friction linings are dirty or oily. Replace pads/shoes.
3. Wrong pads installed. Make a replacement.
44. Excessive brake pedal travel
1. There is a partial failure of the brake system. Check the whole system (Chapter Brake system), make the necessary corrections.
2. Insufficient brake fluid level in master cylinder. Check level (Chapter Brake system), if necessary, top up and bleed the system (Chapter Brake system).
3. Adjustment of back brake mechanisms is broken. Perform a series of braking while reversing the vehicle. If this does not solve the problem, remove the drums and check the condition of the self-adjusting mechanisms (Chapter Brake system).
45. When depressing the brake pedal, there is a feeling of softness
1. Air has entered the hydraulic system. Bleed the brakes (Chapter Brake system).
2. Faulty flexible brake hoses. Check the condition of all hoses and lines in the system. Replace components if necessary.
3. Loose brake master cylinder.
4. Faulty master cylinder (Chapter Brake system).
46. To brake the car, you need to apply excessive force to the pedal
1. Vacuum brake booster malfunctioning (Chapter Brake system).
2. Brake pads/linings are excessively worn. Check and replace if necessary (Chapter Brake system).
3. One or more caliper pistons or wheel cylinders are stuck. Check and make necessary corrections (Chapter Brake system).
4. Pad/shoe friction linings contaminated with oil, grease, or brake fluid. Check and replace if necessary (Chapter Brake system).
5. Installed and not yet run in new pads / shoes. It takes some time for them to burn in to the discs/drums.
47. The pedal sinks to the floor with minimal resistance
1. As a result of wheel cylinder leaks (ov), caliper pistons (ov), loosening, disconnection or damage to the brake lines, etc. violations excessively dropped the fluid level in the reservoir of the main brake cylinder. Check the entire system, make the necessary corrections.
2. Worn master cylinder seals (Chapter Brake system).
48. There are pulsations of the brake pedal when braking the car
1. The caliper does not move properly as a result of improper installation or obstruction. Remove and check (Chapter Brake system).
2. Defective disc or drum. Remove (Chapter Brake system) and check for excessive lateral runout, as well as the appearance of out-of-roundness and out-of-flatness. Regroove the disc or drum or replace them with new ones.
Suspension and steering
49. The car leads away when moving in one direction
1. Tires unevenly inflated.
2. Tires are defective.
3. Excessively worn suspension or steering components (Chapter Suspension and steering).
4. Front wheel alignment required.
5. Front brakes seized (Chapter Brake system).
50. There are jerks, jerks or vibrations
1. The wheels are out of balance or the discs are out of shape. Have the tire balanced at a tire shop.
2. Rear wheel bearings worn, loose or out of adjustment (Chapter Suspension and steering).
3. Worn or damaged shock absorbers or other suspension components (Chapter Suspension and steering).
51. There is excessive rocking of the vehicle or "burying" his nose when cornering or braking
1. Shock absorbers faulty. Replace the whole set (Chapter Suspension and steering).
2. Broken or weak springs and/or other suspension components. Check the status of the components (Chapter Suspension and steering).
52. Steering wheel too tight
1. The fluid level in the reservoir of the power steering system has dropped excessively (Chapter Brake system).
2. Tires incorrectly inflated.
3. Insufficiently lubricated steering joints (Chapter Suspension and steering).
4. The adjustment of the angles of installation of the front wheels is broken.
5. The hydraulic booster does not develop the required power.
53. Excessive steering play
1. Loose torque on front wheel bearings (Chapter Suspension and steering).
2. Excessively worn suspension or steering components (Chapter Suspension and steering).
54. Excessive tread wear (not in one area)
1. Tires incorrectly inflated.
2. Wheel balance out of alignment. Contact a tire shop.
3. Damaged wheel rims. Check and replace if necessary.
4. Excessively worn suspension or steering components (Chapter Suspension and steering).
55. Excessive tread wear on outer edge
1. Tires incorrectly inflated.
2. Too sharp turns. Reduce your speed.
3. Adjustment of angles of installation of forward wheels is broken (excessive convergence). Contact a workshop for professional adjustment.
4. Bent or twisted suspension arm (Chapter Suspension and steering).
56. Excessive tread wear on the inside edge
1. Tires incorrectly inflated.
2. Adjustment of angles of installation of forward wheels is broken (divergence). Carry out the adjustment at a car service workshop.
3. Steering components damaged or loose (Chapter Suspension and steering).
57. There is local wear of the tread
1. Wheel balance out of alignment.
2. Damaged or bent discs. Check and replace if necessary.
3. Tires are defective.
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