Checking the vehicle's readiness for operation (Opel Astra G)

Introduction

The section lists all units and systems subject to inspection and offers methods for independently checking their condition and operation. Based on the analysis of the results of such checks, you can assess the readiness of the car for operation and technical inspection. Naturally, independent checks cannot be compared in terms of measurement accuracy with professional ones, due to the lack of appropriate qualifications of the performer and the inaccessibility of special diagnostic equipment. If, during the course of independent checks, it is revealed that there is a need to repair or replace any component, refer to the relevant sections of the relevant Chapters of the Manual for more complete information.

In most cases, the upcoming checks require the participation of an assistant.

Checks performed from the driver's seat

Parking (hand) brake

The operation of the parking brake is checked by fully cocking its control lever. In doing so, it is necessary to make sure that the lever stroke (number of ratchet clicks), required to create a feeling of full resistance caused by the braking mechanism, is not excessive. If this requirement is not met, the serviceability of the brake mechanisms of the rear wheels of the car and/or the correct adjustment of the parking brake cables should be checked.

1. With the parking brake fully engaged, rock the control lever from side to side (tap it on the sides) — the brake should not be released, — otherwise the ratchet or pawl of the lever is worn. Release the parking brake and swing the lever from side to side to detect signs of wear of the axle bearing. Check the reliability of the lever fastening and make sure that there are no traces of corrosion of the supporting element of the body within a radius of 30 cm around the lever support. If the condition of the lever fastening cannot be checked from the car interior, evaluate it later during checks carried out under the car.

Brake system

1. Make sure that the brake pedal does not make any sounds when pressed and released, does not show obvious signs of excessive wear of the axle bushings, and also check the condition of the pedal pad. Make sure that there are no signs of brake fluid leaks on the pedal, floor or surface of the mat around the pedal, indicating a violation of the sealing cuffs of the master brake cylinder.

2. Press the pedal slowly at first, then quickly, achieving the ability to maintain a stable pressure. Create pressure and make sure that the pedal does not then slowly fall to the floor, which would again indicate problems with the master brake cylinder. Release the pedal, wait a few seconds, then press it again until a solid resistance appears. Make sure that resistance begins to appear already at the top of the pedal stroke. If the pedal needs to be pressed almost to the floor to create resistance, this indicates a violation of the brake adjustment. If a solid resistance to pressing the pedal does not occur at all, i.e. there is a soft pedal stroke, this indicates air has entered the hydraulic system and the system needs to be completely bled.

3. Check the proper functioning of the brake booster by pressing the brake pedal several times to release the vacuum. Then, keeping the pedal depressed, start the engine. When the engine starts, the resistance to pressing the pedal should change (decrease). If this is not the case, there is a possibility of "leaks" in the vacuum hoses of the brake booster unit or its malfunction.

Steering wheel and column

1. Check the steering wheel for cracks or looseness in the hub, spokes, or rim. Rock the wheel from side to side, then up and down in relation to the column. Make sure there is no play in the wheel on the column, which is evidence of a loose wheel nut or worn shaft splines. Continue rocking the wheel as described above, but add a slight rotation to the right and left. Make sure there is no excessive play in the wheel, which indicates excessive wear of the upper support bearing of the shaft, cardan joint.

Windshield and rear view mirrors

The windshield should not have any cracks or other damage that could significantly limit the driver's field of view or interfere with the operation of the windshield wipers. The presence of small chips left by stone impacts is acceptable. Any kind of stickers and hanging souvenirs should also not limit the driver's view.

Rear view mirrors must be securely fastened, undamaged and adjustable. The door mirror on the passenger side of the vehicle is not subject to inspection, provided that the rear view mirror mounted on the inside of the windshield is in good working order and can be used.

Seats and seat belts

The following checks apply to both front and rear seat belts.

1. Carefully check the structure of the seat belt material for cuts, signs of severe wear or aging of the material. If inertia-type belts equipped with return devices are installed, pull them out of the drum cover completely when inspecting.

2. Fasten and unfasten each of the belts, checking the proper functioning of the locking mechanisms (both for latching and for opening) and their reliability. If inertia-type belts are installed, check the correct functioning of the return devices.



3. Check the reliability of the fastening of the belts to the body elements and the condition of their anchor units, which can be accessed without removing the trim panels. The presence of signs of severe corrosion or deformation of the supporting elements of the body within the radius of the belt support is also unacceptable. Some of the anchor units of the seat belts are inaccessible and cannot even be visually inspected from the interior of the car; in this case, their condition should be checked later during the inspection of the underbody. If any of the parts of the belt mechanism are attached directly to the front seat, the seat supports must be securely screwed to the floor, and their condition must be checked in the same way as the belt anchor units themselves.



4. The front seats themselves must also be securely fixed and must not allow their position to change spontaneously. Also check the reliability of the seat backs in the vertical position.

Doors

The front doors must be able to be opened and closed from inside the vehicle and must be securely locked in the closed position.

Electrical equipment

1. Turn on the ignition and sound the horn. The horn must produce a clear sound that is clearly audible to other road users. The use of gongs, sirens or two-tone horns installed independently as additional accessories is unacceptable.



2. Check the operation of the windshield washers and wipers. The washers should provide a stream of fluid of adequate pressure and flow, and their nozzles should be adjusted so that the streams hit the upper edge of the windshield.

3. Use the windshield wipers simultaneously with the washers and make sure that the brushes wipe the windshield well throughout their entire travel range. There should be no streaks or stripes of smeared road film on the glass that limit the driver's view in either the straight-line or peripheral sectors of the field of vision. Otherwise, replace the brushes.

4. Press the foot brake pedal with the ignition on and ask an assistant to check the operation of the brake lights. When you press the pedal, the brake lights should light up, and when you release them, they should go out. If only one of the brake lights does not light up, then the cause of the failure is most likely a burnt-out bulb or poor electrical contact on the bulb socket (or near it). If both brake lights fail, you should check their fuse and switch. You should not completely rule out the possibility that both lamps burn out at the same time. If the brake lights fail to turn off when you release the brake pedal, this indicates a faulty switch.

Checks performed on a vehicle on the ground

License plates and vehicle identification numbers

Front and rear number plates must be in satisfactory condition, securely attached and easily legible.

The vehicle identification number (VIN), located on the plate under the hood, must be clearly visible.

Electrical equipment

1. Turn on the side lights and make sure that the corresponding lighting devices operate properly (front and rear side lights, as well as license plate lights). Lenses and reflectors must be clean, undamaged and securely fastened. Lens integrity is of particular importance in rear lights, where the white light of a damaged lamp may be confused with the reversing signal by other road users.

2. Contamination of the lenses causes a noticeable decrease in the intensity of light emitted by the lamp.

3. Turn on the headlights and make sure that both the low and high beam units are functioning normally and with the same intensity for both headlights. A decrease in the intensity of the glow of any of the headlights is usually associated with a violation of the quality of the electrical contacts or severe corrosion of the internal reflector. Check the headlight lenses for cracks and chips left as a result of stone impacts. Such defects are unacceptable, but usually the qualification of the degree of their severity is a subjective factor. Remember that all lighting devices must work reliably the first time the switches are toggled. Tapping on the lighting unit in order to turn it on is an unacceptable action.

4. The position of the headlights should not only be adjusted in such a way as to prevent blinding other road users in the low beam mode, but also to ensure adequate illumination of the roadway in front of the vehicle. The adjustment of the direction of the optical axes of the headlights is checked using special optical equipment, therefore, if you are not sure of its correctness, you should contact specialists in advance to check and adjust the position of the headlights.



5. With the ignition on, check that the direction indicators are functioning properly. Make sure that both the front and rear indicators emit a sufficiently bright yellow light and flash at a frequency of approximately one or two times per second. In addition, it is mandatory that the direction indicator indicators on the instrument panel are in good working order. Turning on the side lights and brake lights should not affect the direction indicators - if this is not the case, the cause is usually poor grounding in the rear combination lamp units. Similarly, make sure that the hazard warning lights are functioning properly, which should operate both with the ignition on and off. Check the condition of the lenses (see above).

6. Check the fog lights for proper operation. The mandatory check usually concerns only the externally mounted fog light, which is included in the standard equipment and is located on one side of the car. The light should be securely fastened and should produce a bright, sharp beam of red light. Control lamp on the dashboard (or inside the switch) should also function.

Brake system

1. From the engine compartment, inspect the brake lines for signs of leaks, corrosion, poor mounting, abrasions and other damage. Inspect the master cylinder and brake booster unit for signs of leaks, secure mounting and signs of excessive corrosion of both the component mounts and the surrounding body elements. The master cylinder reservoir should be securely fastened - if the reservoir is made of translucent material, the fluid level in it should be between the upper and lower marks on the walls.



2. Turn the steering wheel so that the right front brake hose can be seen. Check the hose carefully for cracks and signs of rubber deterioration. Defects are most easily detected by bending the hose in half and are almost inevitable where the hose connects to the fittings. Turn the steering wheel fully to the left, then to the right, and make sure that the hose does not come into contact with the wheel rim, tire, or any moving components of the suspension or steering system. With an assistant firmly depressing the brake pedal, check the hose for bulges and signs of fluid leakage under pressure. Repeat the checks for the left brake hose. If defects are found, make the necessary replacements.



3. Check the brake line tubes and hoses for signs of damage and material aging.

4. Check the flexible brake hoses for cracks and signs of material aging (see Chapter Routine Maintenance).

Steering and suspension

1. Ask an assistant to turn the steering wheel slightly to the right and left in the range up to the moment of the beginning of the transfer of rotation to the steered wheels. Try to estimate the amount of free play of the steering wheel before the moment of the beginning of the steering mechanism operation. The amount of this play provides information on the degree of wear of the steering column joints, wear and reliability of the fastening of the coupling connecting the column to the steering mechanism or unreliability of the fastening, wear or violation of the adjustment of the steering mechanism itself. In general, the free play of the steering wheel should not exceed 1.3 cm.

2. Ask an assistant to turn the steering wheel vigorously in both directions in the range before the steering wheels begin to turn. At the same time, carefully monitor the behavior of the joints, rods and other elements of the steering drive and their fastening units. Components that show signs of wear, damage, deformation or unreliability of fastening must be repaired or replaced. If the car is equipped with a power steering system, also check the reliability of the fastening of the system pump, the condition and correct tension of its drive belt. The system must function properly and show no signs of hydraulic fluid leaks or damage to the hoses. Additional checks can be made later, when the car is raised off the ground and access under it is much easier.

3. Make sure the vehicle is level and ride height is correct. Make sure there is sufficient clearance between the suspension components and the compression buffers to allow full suspension travel.

Shock absorbers

1. Press down on each corner of the car in turn, then release it quickly. If the shock absorber is OK, the corner should rise and then return to its normal position. If the corner of the car continues to swing up and down after releasing, the shock absorber has lost its damping properties.

Exhaust system

1. Start the engine and, having an assistant press a rag against the end of the exhaust pipe, check the entire system for signs of leaks, which are manifested in the form of rhythmically pulsating streams of smoke or a hissing sound emanating directly from the source of the leak. Check the efficiency of the muffler, making sure that the noise level emitted by the engine corresponds to what is expected for this type of vehicle. If the overall condition of the system is considered satisfactory, minor local leaks can be eliminated using a patented special repair kit.

Checks carried out on a vehicle raised above the ground with wheels rotating freely

1. Jack up the vehicle by supporting it securely on jack stands placed under the load-bearing points of the vehicle frame. Position the jack stands so that they do not come into contact with suspension components (including when turning the front wheels). Make sure that all wheels are off the ground and that the steerable wheels are able to turn from lock to lock.

Steering drive

1. Check the condition of the rubber steering rack boots. Make sure that there are no cuts, signs of leaks, or unreliable fastening of the bandages. If the steering is equipped with a power steering system, check its rubber hydraulic hoses, tubes, and their joints for signs of material aging, leaks, abrasions, and other damage. Carefully inspect all steering components for signs of jamming or excessively tight movement, loss of cotter pins and other locking devices, as well as traces of excessive corrosion of body elements within a radius of 30 cm around the fastening points of any of the components.



2. Have an assistant turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, then to the right. Make sure that the steering components are (columns, mechanism and drive) move smoothly and freely and that none of them (including wheels and tires) does not come into contact with hoses or pipes of the brake system or any elements of the vehicle body.

Front and rear suspension and wheel bearings

1. Starting with the right front, check the condition of the wheel bearings, suspension ball joints, pivot points and suspension component fasteners one by one. To do this, grab the wheel at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions and tug it hard. Any play in these components is unacceptable.



2. Check the housings of the rubber-metal bushings of the suspension components for signs of aging or damage to the material, and the components themselves for bends, deformations and signs of excessive corrosion.



3. Check that all cotter pins, lock washers or other locking hardware for suspension component fasteners are present. Make sure that there are no signs of severe corrosion of body components within a 30 cm radius around the component attachment points.

4. The presence of any excessive play can be determined by inserting a pry bar or large screwdriver between the component support and its body and using it as a lever. This will determine whether the slack is due to wear of the axle bushing, the mounting bolt, or the pores themselves (bolt holes are often developed to an oval shape).

5. Now grasp the wheel at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions and repeat the above check. Rotate the wheel to check the bearing for free rotation.

6. Repeat the check for the second front wheel, and then for both rear wheels.

Springs and shock absorbers

1. Inspect the strut assemblies for signs of fluid leaks, corrosion, deep piston rod cavities, or housing damage. Also, make sure the strut mountings are secure.

2. Make sure that the ends of the coil springs are properly seated in their seats and that the spring body rod is not damaged by corrosion, broken, cracked or otherwise defective.

3. Assess the reliability of the fastening of the support units, check the support elements for signs of excessive wear, corrosion, cracks, deformations, and other damage to the components and their bushings.



4. Check shock absorbers for signs of serious leaks.

The presence of weak fluid leaks for some types of shock absorbers is normal. Check the fasteners and bushings of the support units for wear and damage to the block housings.

Drive shafts

1. With the steering wheel turned all the way, turn each front wheel in turn and inspect the constant velocity joint (CV) boots for cracks or other damage.



2. Also check the reliability of fastening the covers to the corresponding housings with your own bandages.

3. While continuing to rotate the wheel, make sure that the drive shaft is not bent or otherwise damaged.

Brake system

1. If possible, without disassembling the mechanisms, check the condition of the brake pads and discs. Make sure that the friction lining material is not excessively worn and that there are no cracks, cavities, grooves or other signs of excessive wear on the disc surfaces.

2. Carefully check the condition of the rigid brake pipes under the car's bottom and the flexible hoses of the rear brake mechanisms. The presence of traces of excessive corrosion, abrasions, unreliability of the fastening of the nipple connections of the pipes, as well as cracks, signs of aging of the material, leaks and swelling under pressure of the flexible hoses is unacceptable.

3. Check the brake calipers and shields for signs of brake fluid leaks, which indicate a deterioration in the quality of the hydraulic seals of the corresponding components.

4. While slowly rotating each wheel in turn, have an assistant apply the foot brake and then release it. Make sure that each brake mechanism is functioning properly and that the wheel rotates freely when the brake pedal is released. It is not possible to check the effectiveness of the brake mechanisms without using special equipment, but road tests (subject to appropriate road and weather conditions) are able to detect the effect of a vehicle being pulled to the side when driving in a straight line.

5. Check the parking brake drive mechanism for fraying and breakage of cables, excessive wear and unreliability of the rod fastening. Having asked an assistant to apply and then release the parking brake, make sure that the brake mechanisms of each of the rear wheels of the car operate and release reliably.

Fuel and exhaust systems

1. Check the condition of the fuel tank, pipes, hoses and fittings (including connections on the pump, filter and fuel injection system pre-pump, filter and injection pump). All components must be securely fastened and show no signs of leakage. The fuel cap must close securely and meet the type requirements of the vehicle manufacturer.

2. Check the exhaust system along its entire length for damage to supports and suspensions, the reliability of the clamps of the section butt joints, and traces of corrosion.

Wheels and tires

1. Carefully inspect the tires of all wheels one by one, both from the outside and from the inside, as well as over the entire surface of the tread. The presence of cuts, cracks, swellings, seals, tread delamination, as well as exposure of the cord and tire frame due to wear or damage are unacceptable. Make sure that the tire bead fits tightly on the rim of the wheel disk. Check the fit and condition of the tire inflation valve (nipple). Rotate the wheels, checking the disks for signs of deformation, especially along the rim.

2. Make sure that the correct size tires are installed, corresponding in size to the vehicle brand. It is not allowed to install tires of different types or sizes on the same axle. It is not allowed to use special spare tires during normal operation of the vehicle (compact) type. In addition, the tires must be inflated to the required pressure.

3. Using a special device, measure the depth of the tyre tread pattern. According to currently accepted road safety regulations, the pattern must be clearly visible over the entire tread area and have a depth of at least 1.6 mm over at least three-quarters of the tread width. A certain amount of tread wear on the outer and inner edges is acceptable, but it must be in the form of an even, continuous ring and the tread pattern in the worn area must also be visible. Any of the above excessive wear may be a sign of front wheel alignment problems, which should be checked before the tyres fail completely. For more detailed information on typical tread wear and front wheel alignment, refer to the relevant Chapters of the Manual.

Body corrosion

1. Check all load-bearing elements of the car body and frame in areas subject to loads for signs of corrosion. All profile elements of the frame, thresholds, cross beams, body pillars, supports and fasteners of suspension and steering elements, brake system components and seat belts are considered loaded and load-bearing. Corrosion that significantly reduces the thickness of the metal of load-bearing sections of the car body and causes them to weaken is unacceptable. In this case, appropriate body repairs should be carried out.

Exhaust gas toxicity test

1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature and ensure that the prerequisites for checking the idle speed and mixture quality are met (i.e., that the ignition system is functioning normally and the air filter element is in satisfactory condition).

2. Before starting the measurements, raise the engine speed to approximately 2500 rpm and hold it there for about 20 seconds. Reduce the speed again to idle and look closely at the smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe of the car. If the idle speed is clearly exceeded, as well as in the case of emission of bright dark blue or black smoke from the exhaust system for more than 5 seconds, repair is necessary. Blue smoke is a sign of burning engine oil (wear of valve stem seals, valve guides, piston rings or cylinder bores), while black can be considered evidence of incomplete combustion of fuel (contamination of the air filter element, excessive enrichment of the mixture, malfunction of the injection injectors/nozzles or other problems in the operation of the fuel system).

3. If the idle speed and the external condition of the exhaust are normal, it is necessary to measure the content of carbon monoxide (CO) and hydrocarbon compounds in the exhaust gases using an exhaust gas analyzer. It is assumed that such an analyzer can be rented or borrowed - it is irrational to purchase it for an amateur mechanic. Alternatively, this check can be carried out at a service station.

CO emission (quality of the mixture)

When carrying out this check, it is necessary to be guided by the requirements of the traffic regulations regarding the CO content in exhaust gases.

If it is not possible to reduce the CO level to within acceptable limits (it is assumed that from other points of view the fuel and ignition systems are functioning properly), it should be assumed that there is some defect in the fuel injection system.

It is possible that the CO level meets the traffic regulations but exceeds the norm set by the manufacturer.

Emission of hydrocarbon compounds

Having made sure that the level of CO in the exhaust gases is normal (or achieve this), proceed to measure the hydrocarbon content in the exhaust. It should not exceed 1200 parts per million. If the car does not pass this test at idle, repeat it at 2000 rpm; if the hydrocarbon content now falls within the norm, the test can be considered successfully passed.

Excessive hydrocarbon content in exhaust gases may be a sign of oil burnout, but it is equally likely to be caused by incomplete combustion of fuel. Possible causes include:

• 1. Poor condition of spark plugs or incorrect spark plug gap;
• 2. Violation of the ignition timing setting due to malfunctions in the engine management system (system operation in safe mode);
• 3. Incorrect valve clearance due to damage or wear of hydraulic compensators;
• 4. Low compression pressure in the cylinders.

Also remember that excessive hydrocarbon content in the exhaust gases may be a consequence of malfunctioning of the catalytic converter (if such is included in the vehicle's equipment).