Introduction
The Section lists all nodes and systems to be checked and suggests ways to independently check their condition and functioning. Based on the analysis of the results of such checks, it is possible to assess the readiness of the car for operation and passing technical inspection. Naturally, self-conducted checks cannot be compared in terms of measurement accuracy with professional ones, due to the lack of appropriate qualifications of the performer and the inaccessibility of special diagnostic equipment. If self-checks reveal the need for repair or replacement of any component, refer to the relevant Sections in the relevant Chapters of the Manual for more information.
In most cases, upcoming inspections require the participation of an assistant.
Checks made from the driver's seat
Parking brake
1. Checking the functioning of the parking brake is carried out by fully cocking the lever of its control. When doing this, make sure that the amount of travel of the lever (number of ratchet clicks), required for the feeling of full resistance caused by the cocking of the brake mechanism, is not excessive. If this requirement is not met, you should check the serviceability of the brake mechanisms of the rear wheels of the car and / or the correct adjustment of the parking brake cables.
2. With the parking brake fully engaged, move the parking brake control lever from side to side (tap it from the sides) - in this case, the brake must not be released, - otherwise the ratchet or lever pawl will wear out. Release the parking brake and rock the lever from side to side to look for signs of wear on the axle bearing. Check that the lever is secure and check that there is no evidence of corrosion on the structural member of the body within a radius of 30 cm around the lever bearing. If the condition of the lever fastener cannot be checked from inside the vehicle, evaluate it later during inspections made under the vehicle.
Brake system
1. Make sure that the brake pedal does not make any sounds when depressing and releasing, does not show obvious signs of excessive wear of the axial bushings, also check the condition of the pedal lining. Make sure that there are no signs of brake fluid leaks on the pedal, floor or mat surface around the pedal, indicating a violation of the tightness of the sealing cups of the brake master cylinder.
2. Depress the pedal slowly at first, and then quickly, achieving the possibility of holding a steady pressure. Apply pressure and check that the pedal does not then slowly sink to the floor, again indicating problems with the brake master cylinder. Release the pedal, wait a few seconds, then depress it again until there is firm resistance. Make sure that the resistance begins to arise already at the top of the pedal travel. If the pedal needs to be depressed almost to the floor to cause resistance, this indicates a violation of the adjustment of the brake mechanisms. If there is no firm resistance to pressing the pedal at all, i.e. there is a softness of the pedal stroke, this indicates that air has entered the hydraulic system and the need for a complete bleeding of the system.
3. Check up serviceability of functioning of the vacuum amplifier of brakes, having squeezed out a brake pedal several times for dumping depression. Then, keeping the pedal depressed, start the engine. At the time of starting the engine, the resistance to pressing the pedal should change (decrease). If this is not the case, there is a possibility «leaks» vacuum hoses of the brake booster unit or its actual malfunction.
Steering wheel and column
1. Check the steering wheel for cracks or looseness in the hub, spokes, or rim. Rock the wheel from side to side, then up and down in relation to the column. Make sure that there is no wheel play on the column, which is evidence of a loose wheel nut or worn shaft splines. Continue rocking the wheel as described above, but add a little more left and right rotation. Make sure that there is no excessive play of the wheel, indicating excessive wear on the upper shaft support bearing, universal joint.
Windshield and mirrors
The windshield must not have cracks or other damage that could noticeably restrict the driver's field of view, or interfere with the operation of the windshield wipers. The presence of small dents left by the impact of stones is acceptable. Any kind of stickers and hanging souvenirs should also not restrict the driver's view.
Rear-view mirrors must be securely fastened, undamaged and adjustable. The door mirror on the passenger side of the car is not subject to examination, provided that it is in good condition and that it is possible to use a rear-view mirror fixed on the inside of the windshield.
Seats and seat belts
The checks below apply to both the front and rear seat belts.
1. Carefully inspect the material structure of the seat belts for cuts, signs of severe chafing or aging of the material. If inertial type belts equipped with return devices are installed, pull them completely out of the drum cover when inspecting.
2. Fasten and unfasten each of the belts, checking the proper functioning of the locking mechanisms (both latching and opening) and their reliability. If inertial type belts are installed, check the correct functioning of the return devices.
3. Check the reliability of the fastening of the belts to the body elements and the condition of their anchor assemblies, which can be accessed without removing the upholstery panels. The presence of signs of severe corrosion or deformation of the load-bearing elements of the body in the radius of the belt support is also unacceptable. Some of the seat belt anchor assemblies are inaccessible and not even subject to external inspection from the vehicle interior, in which case their condition should be checked later when inspecting the bottom. If any of the parts of the belt mechanism are directly attached to the front seat, the seat supports must be securely bolted to the floor and subjected to the same condition as the belt anchors themselves.
4. The front seats themselves must also be securely fixed and must not allow spontaneous changes in their position. Also check that the seatbacks are securely fixed in the upright position.
Doors
The front doors must open and close from inside the vehicle and be securely locked in the closed position.
Electrical equipment
1. Turn on the ignition and sound the horn. The horn should produce a clear sound that is clearly audible to other road users. It is unacceptable to use gongs, sirens or two-tone horns installed as additional accessories on their own.
2. Check up functioning of washers and cleaners of a windscreen. Washers must provide a jet of adequate pressure and flow, and their nozzles adjusted so that the jets hit the top edge of the windshield.
3. Operate the windshield wipers at the same time as the washers and make sure that the wipers wipe the windshield efficiently throughout the entire range of their travel. There should be no streaks and stripes of smeared road film on the glass, limiting the driver's view both in the rectilinear and peripheral sectors of the field of view. Otherwise, replace the brushes.
4. Depress a brake pedal at the included ignition and ask the assistant to check up functioning of stoplights. When depressing the pedal, the brake lights should light up, and when released, they should go out. If only one of the brake lights does not light, then the cause of the failure is most likely a lamp burnout or poor electrical contact on the lamp holder (or near it). If both brake lights fail, check their fuse and switch. The possibility of simultaneous burnout of both lamps should not be completely excluded. If the stop lamps fail to turn off when the brake pedal is released, this indicates a switch failure.
Checks to be made with the vehicle on the ground
License plates and vehicle identification numbers
Front and rear license plates must be in good condition, securely attached and easy to read.
Vehicle identification number (VIN), located on the nameplate under the hood must be clearly visible.
Electrical equipment
1. Turn on the parking lights and make sure that the corresponding lighting devices work properly (front and rear markers and license plate lights). Lenses and reflectors must be clean, undamaged and securely fastened. Lens integrity is of particular importance in rear lights, where the white light of a damaged light can be confused by other road users with a reverse signal. Dirty lenses cause a noticeable decrease in the intensity of the light emitted by the lamp.
2. Turn on the headlights and check that both low beam and high beam units are operating normally and at the same intensity for both headlights. A decrease in the intensity of the glow of any of the headlights is usually associated with a violation of the quality of electrical contacts or severe corrosion of the internal reflector. Check the headlight lenses for cracks and stone chips. Such defects are unacceptable, but usually the qualification of their severity is a subjective factor. Remember that all lighting fixtures must work flawlessly the first time you switch the switches. Tapping the light unit to turn it on is not allowed.
3. The position of the headlights must not only be adjusted in such a way as to prevent dazzling other road users in low beam mode, while providing adequate illumination of the roadway in front of the car. The adjustment of the direction of the optical axes of the headlights is checked using special optical equipment, therefore, if you are not sure of its correctness, you should contact specialists in advance to check and adjust the position of the headlights.
4. Turning on the ignition, check the correct operation of the direction indicators. Make sure that both the front and rear indicators emit a sufficiently bright yellow light and flash at a rate of about one to two times per second. In addition, a mandatory requirement is the serviceability of the indicators for turning on the direction indicators on the instrument panel. Turning on the side lights and brake lights should not affect the operation of the direction indicators - if this is not the case, the reason usually lies in poor ground quality in the rear combination lamp units. In the same way, make sure that the alarm is working properly, which should operate both when the ignition is on and when the ignition is off. Check the condition of the lenses.
5. Check that the fog lights are working properly (s). The obligatory check usually only concerns the externally mounted fog lamp, which is included as standard and located on one side of the car. The headlamp must be securely mounted and must produce a bright, sharp beam of red light. Control lamp on the dashboard (or inside the switch) should also function.
Brake system
1. From the engine compartment, check the brake lines for signs of leaks, corrosion, looseness, wear, or other damage. Inspect the brake master cylinder and brake booster unit for signs of leakage, looseness, and signs of excessive corrosion on both the component mounts and surrounding bodywork. The reservoir of the main brake cylinder must be securely fixed - if the reservoir is made of a translucent material, the liquid level in it must be between the upper and lower marks on the walls.
2. Turn the steering wheel so that the flexible hose of the right front brake mechanism can be inspected. Carefully check the hose for cracks and signs of ageing. Defects are most easily detected when the hose is folded in half, and their presence is almost inevitable in the areas where the hose is connected to the fittings. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, then to the right, and make sure the hose is not in contact with the wheel rim, tire, or any of the moving suspension or steering components. After asking an assistant to depress the brake pedal hard, check the hose for blisters and signs of pressurized fluid leaks. Repeat checks for the left brake hose. If defects are found, make the necessary replacements.
3. Check brake line tubes and hoses for signs of damage and aging material.
4. Check flexible brake hoses for cracks and signs of material aging (see chapter Vehicle settings and routine maintenance).
Steering and suspension
1. Ask the assistant to turn the steering wheel slightly to the right and left in the range until the moment the rotation is transferred to the steered wheels. At the same time, try to estimate the amount of free play of the steering wheel before the start of the operation of the steering mechanism. The value of this play provides information on the degree of wear of the steering column hinges, wear and reliability of fastening of the coupling of the column connection with the steering mechanism or unreliability of fastening, wear or violation of the adjustment of the steering mechanism itself.
2. Ask the assistant to strongly turn the steering wheel in both directions in the range before the steering wheels turn. At the same time, carefully monitor the behavior of hinges, rods and other elements of the steering drive and their attachment points. Components showing signs of wear, damage, deformation, or loose fitting should be repaired or replaced. If the car is equipped with a power steering system, also check the reliability of the fastening of the pump of the system, the condition and correct tension of its drive belt. The system should function properly and show no signs of hydraulic fluid leaks or damaged hoses. Additional checks can be made later, when the car is raised off the ground and access under it is much easier.
3. Make sure the vehicle is level and the ride height is correct. Make sure there is sufficient clearance between the suspension components and the compression stroke buffers to ensure full suspension travel.
Shock absorbers
1. Press alternately on each of the corners of the car, sharply then releasing it. If the damper is OK, the angle should rise and then return to its normal position. If the corner of the car continues to rock up and down after releasing, the shock absorber has lost its damping properties.
Exhaust system
1. Start the engine and, after having an assistant press a piece of rag against the cut of the exhaust pipe, check the entire system for signs of leaks, manifested in the form of rhythmically pulsing streams of smoke or a hissing sound coming directly from the source of the leak. Check the muffler's effectiveness by making sure that the sound level emitted by the engine is as expected for the type of vehicle. In the event that the overall condition of the system is found to be satisfactory, minor local leaks can be eliminated using a patented special repair kit.
Checks to be made with the vehicle raised off the ground with the wheels spinning freely
1. Jack up the vehicle by securely securing it to jack stands placed under the load-bearing points of the vehicle frame. Install the props so that they do not come into contact with the suspension components (including when turning the front wheels). Make sure all wheels are off the ground and the steer wheels are able to turn from lock to lock.
Steering gear
1. Check up a condition of rubber protective covers of a steering rack. Make sure there are no cuts, signs of leaks or loose bandages. If the control is equipped with a hydraulic booster system, check its rubber hydraulic hoses, tubes and their joints for signs of material aging, leaks, abrasions and other damage. Carefully inspect all steering components for signs of jamming or too tight play, missing cotter pins and other locking devices, and signs of excessive body corrosion within a 30 cm radius around the attachment points of any of the components.
2. Ask an assistant to turn the steering wheel all the way, first to the left, then to the right. Make sure that the steering components (column, mechanism and drive) move smoothly and freely and that none of them (including rims and wheel tires) does not come into contact with hoses or pipes of the brake system or any elements of the vehicle body.
Front and rear suspension and wheel bearings
1. Starting at the right front, inspect the condition of the wheel bearings, suspension ball joints, pivot points, and suspension component hardware one by one. To do this, grab the wheel at the 3 and 9 o'clock points and pull it hard. The presence of any backlash in the listed nodes is unacceptable. Check the rubber bushing housings of the suspension components for signs of aging or material damage, and the components themselves for bending, deformation and signs of excessive corrosion. Check that all cotter pins, lock washers, or other locking hardware securing suspension components are present. Make sure that there are no signs of severe corrosion of the body elements within a radius of 30 cm around the component attachment points.
2. The presence of any excessive play can be established by inserting a pry bar or a large screwdriver between the component's support and its body and using it as a lever. In this case, it can be established whether the cause of the slack is the wear of the axial sleeve, the fixing bolt or the actual pore (are often designed to oval bolt holes).
3. Now grasp the wheel at the 12 and 6 o'clock points and repeat the above test. Rotate the wheel, checking the freedom of rotation of the bearing.
4. Repeat the test for the second front wheel and then for both rear wheels.
Springs and shock absorbers
1. Inspect the strut assemblies for signs of fluid leakage, corrosion, deep cavity piston rods, or damaged housings. In addition, make sure that the racks are securely fastened.
2. Check that the ends of the coil springs are properly seated in their seats and that the spring body bar is not corroded, broken, cracked or otherwise defective.
3. Evaluate the security of the support assemblies, check the support elements for signs of excessive wear, corrosion, cracks, deformations, and other damage to the components and their bushings.
4. Check shock absorbers for signs of major leaks.
The presence of fluid leaks, which are weak for some types of shock absorbers, is normal. Check the fasteners and bushings of the support units for wear and damage to the block bodies.
Drive shafts
1. Having turned the steering wheel all the way, turn each of the front wheels in turn and inspect the protective covers of the constant velocity joints (SHRUS) for cracks and other damage. Also check the reliability of fastening the covers to the corresponding cases with your bandages.
2. While continuing to rotate the wheel, check that the drive shaft is not bent or otherwise damaged.
Brake system
1. If possible, without disassembling the mechanisms, check the condition of the brake pads and discs. Check that the friction lining material is not excessively worn and that the disc surfaces are free of cracks, gouges, gouges or other signs of excessive wear.
2. Carefully check up a condition of rigid brake tubes under the car bottom and flexible hoses of back brake mechanisms. Unacceptable is the presence of traces of excessive corrosion, abrasions, unreliable fastening of fitting connections of tubes, as well as cracks, signs of aging of the material, leaks and swelling under pressure of flexible hoses.
3. Check the brake calipers and shields for signs of brake fluid leakage, indicating a violation of the quality of the hydraulic seals of the relevant components.
4. Slowly rotating each wheel in turn, ask an assistant to apply the foot brake, and then release it. At the same time, make sure that each of the brake mechanisms is working properly, and that the wheel rotates freely when the brake pedal is released. It is not possible to check the effectiveness of the brake mechanisms without the use of special equipment, however, sea trials (subject to appropriate road and weather conditions) are able to detect the effect of car pulling to the side during rectilinear motion.
5. Check the parking brake drive mechanism for frayed and broken cables, excessive wear and unreliable fastening of the rods. Having asked the assistant to cock and then release the parking brake, make sure that the brake mechanisms of each of the rear wheels of the car are reliably applied and released.
Power supply and exhaust systems
1. Check the condition of the fuel tank, pipes, hoses and fittings (including connections on pump, filter and fuel injection system pre-pump, filter and injection pump). All components must be securely fastened and show no signs of leakage. The fuel tank cap must be securely closed in accordance with the type requirements of the vehicle manufacturers.
2. Check the entire length of the exhaust system for damage to the supports and suspensions, the reliability of fastening of the clamps of the butt joints of the sections and traces of corrosion.
Wheels and tires
1. Carefully look at the tires of all wheels in turn, both from the outside and from the inside, as well as over the entire tread surface. The presence of cuts, cracks, blisters, seals, delaminations of the tread, as well as exposure of the cord and carcass of the tire due to wear or damage is unacceptable. Make sure that the tire bead is firmly seated on the wheel rim. Check the fit and condition of the tire inflation valve (nipple). Rotate the wheels, checking the rims for signs of deformation, especially on the rim.
2. Make sure the tires are the correct size for the vehicle make. It is unacceptable to install tires of different types or sizes on the same axle. It is unacceptable to use special spare tires during normal operation of the vehicle (compact) type. In addition, the tires must be inflated to the correct pressure.
3. Using a special device, measure the depth of the tire tread pattern. According to current road safety regulations, the pattern must be clearly visible across the entire tread area and have a depth of at least 1.6 mm on at least three-quarters of the tread width. A certain wear of the tread along the outer and inner edges is acceptable, however, it must be in the form of an even continuous ring and the tread pattern on the worn area must also be visible. Any excessive wear listed above could be a sign of misalignment of the front wheel alignment, which should be checked before the tires fail permanently. For more information on typical tread wear and front wheel alignment, please refer to the relevant Chapters of the Manual.
Body corrosion
1. Check all structural members of the vehicle body and frame in stressed areas for signs of corrosion. Loaded and load-bearing are considered all profile elements of the frame, thresholds, cross beams, body pillars, supports and fasteners for suspension and steering elements, brake system components and seat belts. Corrosion, which significantly reduces the thickness of the metal of the bearing sections of the car body and causes their weakening, is unacceptable. In this case, appropriate body repair should be carried out.
Check of toxicity of the fulfilled gases
1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature and verify that the prerequisites for performing the speed adjustment and idle mixture test are met (i.e. that the ignition system is functioning properly and the air cleaner element is in good condition).
2. Before starting measurements, raise the engine speed to approximately 2500 rpm and hold it at this level for about 20 seconds. Reset the speed to idle again and look closely at the smoke coming out of the car's exhaust pipe. If the idle speed is obviously too high, or if bright dark blue or black smoke is emitted from the exhaust system for more than 5 seconds, the vehicle should be repaired. Blue smoke is a sign of burnt motor oil (wear of oil seals, valve guides, piston rings or cylinder mirrors), while black can be considered evidence of incomplete combustion of fuel (dirty air filter element, excessive richness of the mixture, malfunction of the injection injectors / injectors or other problems in the operation of the power system).
3. If the idle speed and the external state of the exhaust are normal, it is necessary to measure the content of carbon monoxide in the exhaust gases using an exhaust gas analyzer (SO) and hydrocarbon compounds. It is assumed that such an analyzer can be rented or borrowed - it is irrational to purchase it for an amateur mechanic. Alternatively, this check can be carried out in a workshop.
CO emission (mixture quality)
When carrying out this check, it is necessary to be guided by the requirements of the SDA for the content of CO in the exhaust gases.
If it is not possible to achieve a decrease in the level of CO content before it falls within acceptable limits (it is assumed that from other points of view, the power and ignition systems are functioning properly), it should be assumed that there is a defect in the fuel injection system.
A variant is possible when the CO level meets the requirements of traffic rules, but exceeds the norm set by the manufacturer.
Emission of hydrocarbon compounds
Making sure that the level of CO content in the exhaust gases is normal (or get it), proceed to the measurement of the content of hydrocarbons in the exhaust. It should not exceed 1200 parts per million. If the vehicle fails this test at idle, repeat the test at 2000 rpm; if now the hydrocarbon content falls within the norm, the test can be considered successfully passed.
Excessive levels of hydrocarbon compounds in the exhaust gases can be a sign of oil burnout, but with no less probability can also be caused by incomplete combustion of the fuel. Possible reasons may include:
- Poor condition of spark plugs or incorrect spark plug gap;
- Violation of the ignition timing due to malfunctions in the engine management system (system operation in safe mode);
- Incorrect valve clearance due to damage or wear of hydraulic lifters;
- Low compression pressure in the cylinders.
Remember also that excessive hydrocarbon content in the exhaust gases may be the result of a malfunction of the catalytic converter (if it is included with the vehicle).
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