They were also contacted this time, having learned a lot of useful information and rather easy-to-implement practical advice.
The biggest surprise is that the engine that did not cause trouble yesterday suddenly completely refuses "come alive" right at the moment when you rush to work in the morning. If this happened for the first time, and even accompanied by a white exhaust, then with almost complete certainty we can say that the glow plugs are to blame. By the way, the indicator on the instrument panel may well be wrong, claiming that everything is OK with the candles. To test, one end of the wire is brought to "plus" battery, and the second supplies voltage directly to the candles. If a good spark jumps at the same time (it is not difficult to distinguish it from a bright flash of a short circuit), the wire starts to warm up, and after that the engine starts, then the candles have nothing to do with it. The problem should be sought in the electrical circuits that supply voltage to them. This way you can also check the fuel supply valve.
And finally, blame only yourself if you tried to start the car on the move before. At the same time, the timing belt could easily slip through several teeth. It is not possible to start the engine and, perhaps, it is necessary to prepare for a complex and expensive engine repair.
As experience shows, another situation is also very common - the engine is idling, and when you try to add speed, it immediately stalls or stops after a little work. Most likely air has entered the fuel system. It is again worth paying attention to the exhaust. In this case, it is usually white with a characteristic smell of diesel fuel. A vacuum in the fuel stream can be caused by a blockage in, say, a fuel intake or fuel filter. Most often, it is the fuel filter that is clogged, and such troubles occur mostly in winter.
Company specialists "Technodiesel" advise everyone to adhere to the rule that has no exceptions: never repair fuel filters. Diverse "flushing", "blowing", and other supposedly restorative procedures, at best, simply will not give an effect, and at worst, they will further aggravate the situation. Fuel passing through such "restored" the filter, not only does not receive the prescribed cleaning, but also washes away all the dirt accumulated in it before. This can quickly disable the precision injection pump mechanism.
Another pseudo help to the motor that they like to provide "knowing" mechanics, - installation of several fuel filters. From the point of view of achieving unprecedented purity of diesel fuel entering the engine, there is no point in this multi-stage filtration. Diesel car manufacturers make accurate filter performance calculations that are backed up by a series of tests, so they should be trusted. Additional filters are not just useless, but harmful. They create excessive resistance, due to which the high-pressure fuel pump works with overload and fails faster. Increased resistance in the piping can also cause air to be sucked in.
You should not be led by another fairly common misconception that additional filters help separate water from the fuel. In fact, filters do not retain water; for this, there are special settling tanks-separators. The presence of such a separator is indicated by a small plug from below under the filter. The accumulated moisture should be drained approximately every 3000 km. It is necessary to drain the liquid until almost clean diesel fuel flows.
The presence of water in the fuel also causes white exhaust clouds. Some modern diesel vehicles have an indicator on the instrument panel that will tell you if there is water in the fuel. If the indicator lights up, it is better, without delay, to stop, turn off the engine and drain the liquid from the separator. If necessary, you can repeat the procedure. If after that the indicator does not want to go out, then the problem is probably in the electrical circuits of the system for indicating the presence of water in the fuel. Trying to fix something in them in haste is not worth it, it is better to contact a car service.
It also happens that a regularly buzzing engine suddenly stops for no reason. The most trivial advice, which, oddly enough, helps in many "heavy" cases - make sure that there is still diesel fuel in the tank. If things are worse, and something really happened, it is worth remembering if there was any sharp sound before the engine stopped. This sound is accompanied by a broken timing belt. If so, then it is better not to try to scroll the motor - the consequences can be devastating.
Another reason for the sudden stop of the engine may be the same air in the fuel system. You can try to directly connect the fuel pump to any container with diesel fuel. If the engine starts running, then the cause has been found. For any problems with the fuel pump, it is best to contact specialists, not trusting repair to dubious mechanics.
When the injection pump is excluded from the likely culprits of the trouble, you can try to loosen the fittings on the nozzles. If, during attempts to start the engine, diesel fuel begins to flow out from under them in a pulsating stream, this means that faulty nozzles do not provide a normal supply of fuel to the combustion chambers. You may notice that black exhaust smoke is pouring out - this is one of the signs of a stuck needle in the nozzle. Fuel begins to flow uncontrollably into the cylinder, and the black exhaust is due to its incomplete combustion.
And one more thing - no need to famously ride through deep puddles. Masters often have to see the engines of diesel cars crippled after such a bath. Water from the puddle enters the combustion chamber, and the strongest hydrodynamic shock bends even the strongest connecting rods!
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