Recommendation. When replacing the driven clutch disc, it is advisable to replace the pressure plate (basket) as well, even if there are no noticeable signs of wear on its working surface. The fact is that during operation, the working surface of the pressure plate wears out and the rigidity of the diaphragm spring decreases.
To perform the work, you will need a mandrel for centering the driven clutch disc (see "Tools, accessories and operating materials").
Sequence of execution
1. Prepare the car for work (see "Preparing the car for maintenance and repair").
2. Remove the gearbox (see "Gearbox - removal and installation").
3. The presence of deep grooves on the ends of the central spring petals is the first sign that the clutch needs to be replaced.
4. If the clutch is not removed for replacement, mark the position of the basket relative to the flywheel.
5. Screw in one of the gearbox mounting bolts to the engine and, holding the flywheel from turning with a mounting blade or a wide slotted screwdriver, an 11 mm socket or open-end wrench...
...unscrew the six bolts securing the basket to the flywheel.
6. Remove the basket and driven disk.
7. Sunken rivets of the friction linings of the driven disk by less than 0.3 mm relative to the disk surface is the second sign that the clutch needs to be replaced.
During operation, the driven disk linings wear out. If the driven clutch disk is not replaced in a timely manner, the metal rivets securing the friction linings may touch the working surfaces of the pressure plate and flywheel (if, as a result of wear, the rivets are recessed less than the permissible value, see above), leaving furrows on them.
Having discovered such grooves, it is necessary to replace the basket together with the driven disk. And if deep grooves remain on the flywheel surface, then the flywheel will have to be replaced as well (see "Rear Crankshaft Oil Seal - Replacement"). Otherwise, jerking and twitching of the car is possible even when the clutch is smoothly engaged.
8. Loose, cracked torsional vibration damper springs (the reason for jerking and rattling even when the car starts moving smoothly) — the third sign that the clutch needs to be replaced.
9. The amount of wear on the clutch pressure plate is more than 0.2 mm - the fourth sign that the clutch needs to be replaced.
10. Clean the flywheel surface from wear products and degrease its surface.
11. Check the clutch release slave cylinder (see "Clutch slave cylinder - check and replacement").
Note: In addition to the universal mandrel for centering the clutch driven disc relative to the clutch basket (see "Tools, accessories and operating materials") you can use a mandrel to center the driven clutch disc relative to the flywheel.
The following is the sequence of work when using this mandrel. When using a universal mandrel to center the driven disk relative to the clutch basket, install the clutch according to the instructions attached to the mandrel.
12. Place the driven clutch disc on the mandrel so that when installing the disc on the flywheel, the Getriebeseite inscription on the driven disc is on the gearbox side.
13. Insert the centering mandrel together with the driven clutch disc into the central hole of the flywheel.
14. Install the clutch basket on the flywheel and tighten its mounting bolts step by step to a torque of 15 Nm. If necessary, hold the flywheel from turning with a mounting blade or a wide slotted screwdriver (see above).
15. Remove the centering mandrel.
16. Install the remaining parts in reverse order.
Warning! When installing the gearbox, do not rest the end of the input shaft on the petals of the clutch basket spring. This may cause the clutch to break.
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