The clutch is switched on (with the pedal released) shouldn't «slip» and without loss to transfer torque from the engine to the transmission, and with the clutch pedal depressed, completely disconnect the transmission from the engine. Clutch engagement should be smooth, without jerks.
Execution sequence
1. With the engine off, press the clutch pedal several times. We make sure that there are no jams in the clutch release mechanism, that there are no squeaks, knocks and other extraneous noises.
2. We start the engine. If you hear a howling sound from the clutch housing that gets louder when you press the clutch pedal, the clutch release bearing is most likely worn (see «Clutch release slave cylinder - check and replace»).
3. With the engine running, press the clutch pedal all the way and shift into gear. Switching on should be easy, without crackling or crunching. If a crackling sound is heard when shifting gears, and turning off is difficult, then the clutch is not completely disengaged. Bleeding the hydraulic clutch release (see below, «Clutch Release Hydraulic - Bleeding»). If there is no air in the actuator, the clutch master cylinder may be faulty (see «Clutch Release Master Cylinder - Replace»), clutch slave cylinder (see «Clutch release slave cylinder - check and replace»), the clutch diaphragm spring is worn or has lost its elasticity (see «Clutch - check and replace»).
4. We check the absence of traces of brake fluid leakage under the car at the junction of the gearbox housing and the engine block (this is accompanied by a gradual decrease in the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir). If there are signs of leakage, then the tightness of the clutch slave cylinder is broken, and it must be replaced (see «Clutch release slave cylinder - check and replace»).
5. We check the absence of traces of leakage of brake fluid along the rod of the master cylinder for disengaging the clutch (this is accompanied by a gradual decrease in the liquid level in the GTZ reservoir). If there are signs of leakage, the tightness of the clutch master cylinder is broken, and it must be replaced (see «Clutch Release Master Cylinder - Replace»).
6. With the engine running and the first gear engaged, gradually releasing the clutch pedal, we check the smooth engagement of the clutch, the absence of jerks or extraneous sounds at the moment of starting. Jerks and chatter at the time of engagement of the clutch can be caused by oiling or warping of the clutch discs or the destruction of the vibration damper (see «Clutch - check and replace»).
7. In motion in third or fourth gear, sharply press the gas pedal. If the speed of the crankshaft increases quickly, and the car accelerates sluggishly, then the clutch slips. This is also evidenced by the appearance in the cabin of the smell of burning, emitted by the highly heated friction linings of the driven disk. To fix this problem, you need to replace the clutch (see «Clutch - check and replace»).
If the above symptoms of malfunctions are not detected during clutch diagnostics, the clutch is in a technically sound condition.
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